AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

So, a friend came over to look at it and he suggested that maybe the "J" portion of the bracket is bent, causing most of my alignment and straightness issues. Now to take it all back down again while laying on the ground. Fun.


Well, it was straight as an arrow...

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

So one Aster Bracket and a 4" pulley later, I have 6.71 lbs of boost at 6,088 rpm.

Methanol system is not installed yet but will be by next weekend.

So, should I install the methanol kit and dyno it and just leave like that for a while, or go ahead and up it to 10 lbs and call it a day?

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I'd go with that 3.85 pulley. Bob

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Bob. I'm gonna go that route.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

You'll have to let us know how it does. Bob

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Got the 3.85" on there. Now I have no mid range boost and peak boost is still only 6 lbs at 6k rpm. And you can now hear the bypass all the time, especially at WOT. It flickers when you give it gas at idle, but it definitely isn't closing (or staying closed) at WOT.

I guess that's either a vacuum leak or bad red race bypass? These bpv's aren't supposed to be adjusted, I've been told.

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Plenum is cracked AND head unit outlet hose was off....

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

FMIC time

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Ha. Can I borrow some money then? J/k, but I'm a little hesitant about losing pieces of my front bumper and having methanol premix in the washer tank at the same time.

So I got the plenum welded at a boat prop shop for $30, and cranked down on the outlet side hose clamp. Bypass is acting normal again.
But peak boost according to the gauge is only ~7 lbs with the smaller pulley. Feels stronger though. Need to log it with HPtuners and see what the MAP says... Hard to watch a boost gauge at 6k rpms. I smoke tested it at 5 inHg after the repairs and smoke only came out of the air filter.

Either I have a leaking gauge, leak otherwise, or need a smaller pulley.

What is the best way to block off the air filter for a smoke test?

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

you can have the front tag piece cut and meshed so that it looks clean if you like for 100 bucks. i forget who does it. there are photos

im not sure what you mean by blocking off the air filter. most people put a tester on the intake side of the blower where the inlet hat would go and go from there. maybe im just not understanding. i am drinking octoberfest by the gallon as we speak.

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Oh I thought you had to remove some of the front bumper styrofoam to make room for the FMIC, which would reduce the impact resistance (or whatever you call it) of the front of the car in an accident. Basically I thought you cut out the styrofoam and its not as safe without it.


My smoke tester has a little cone shaped nozzle that I stick in the Evap solenoid hose that goes into the drivers side of the intake manifold. What kind of piece/setup fits on the blower inlet like you're talking about?

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Highest I've seen is 7.8 lbs of boost at 6400 rpm in second gear with 75 deg ambient temp. That's with the 3.85" pulley and without methanol.

Thinking of holding off on the methanol until spring, but I'm not sure yet. I may pulley down if my next boost leak test doesn't reveal anything. If I do pulley down then the methanol will go on. Or I may just up the boost till it blows and then tell the wife "I dunno what happened... Just gonna have to buy a new motor I guess!"

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I know a handful of guys who have told their wives that excuse before. As far as I know they're still alive. Bob

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Bob! That's promising! Haha

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

What should I do next: FMIC or upgrade it to a D1SC?

I plan to do both but does it really matter which is done first? Would the D1SC be choked down by my 3.5" IC setup if I upgrade the blower first?

I would install my methanol kit with either upgrade.

I should probably state that after upgrading the head unit and IC set up I then plan to upgrade the motor to a 383 with trick flow 225 heads with 67 cc chambers (to retain the factory compression ratio), and I will upgrade the cam as well to match the cubes. Not looking to make a drag car, just an awesome street car that still has midrange power.

conor.davis

iTrader: (20)

If I were you I'd do FMIC then after that upgrade to a F series!

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Haha word. Not a bad plan!

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

it may be a bit, but if you want to start saving I will eventually sell my kit for a great price.

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Thanks man! I'll be ready to buy in about a month one way or the other. But I'm ready to buy 'new' if I have to.

maxpower_454

iTrader: (7)

Man.... I just read your whole thread. Sorry to see you went through so much grief with this kit. That kit did look pretty beat from the start. I know you probably hate to think about it, but how much did you end up paying in the end to get everything squared away?

I would probably just run yours the way it is for a while. Did you dyno it? Selling and buying another kit is going to another ton of $$.