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FBody Twin Turbo Kits?!

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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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Default FBody Twin Turbo Kits?!

Talk about a nightmare! I have been doing research for twin turbo kits the past few months and have not been successful in narrowing down one. Looking for anyone who has installed a TT setup and has feedback...a short list of what Im looking for...
-Want to retain A/C
-Goals are 6-700hp low boost, 8-9 turned up a bit. Looking for reliability and drivability, not insane HP.
-Willing to switch out K-Member.
-Engine will be rebuilt with forged internals and all proper fuel modifications will be done.

Has anyone heard of/used products from LS1turbo.com?

Also looking for an educated answer as to why it is not a good idea to stroke a turbo setup up to a 383??

Thanks!
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 05:28 PM
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I think that most realize that the twins provide such insane power, stroking is not needed. Personally I like the idea of bigger cubes to quickly spool up the turbos. I don't think you'll hurt anything with those cubes.
Seems then trend has gone to a smaller cube, for strength in the piston and crank.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:01 PM
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Shorter stroke = Longer rods. Less stress on the rods.

Also, longer rods means the angle of the connecting rod (crank rotation) from crank to piston is less. Less angular stress on the connecting rods. Becomes an issue at higher RPM. This is why those Ferrari's and such can spin their 4.5L V8's to 9,000 RPM. Well... one of the reasons... lol

(This is a VERY DUMMY'd down way of expressing it). (Also, my frame of reference was between a 4.8 and a 5.3 JY Motor, may not apply to LS1/383 setup)

Last edited by HRHohio; Apr 25, 2013 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Corrected bad info for future reference. (IN BOLD)
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:17 PM
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Appreciate the responses guys...Still looking for info or reviews on LS1turbo.com's products? Or any other other company that doesn't want 10K for a setup. I understand you get what you pay for, however, paying thousands more for a kit than a brand new crate motor is a little hard to swallow.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:24 PM
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your best bet is to fabricate your own. I have a slighly stroked motor. 4.030 bore witha 3.825" stroke.

heres the beginning of my custom twin kit..

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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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I give you the utmost credit for undertaking the turbo endeavor on your own...however I do not have the luxury. I live in a condo, and have no place to work on the vehicle. I have a good buddy mechanic who does quality work and I am having him work on the vehicle while I am gone...so i am trying to make the build as easy for him as possible by putting in the research and trying to find a kit that has been tested and somewhat proven. I know it sounds like I want to take "The easy way" however, I do not like reinventing the wheel....and If i can find someone or a company who has put in the time and work to create a quality setup, I would prefer to piggy back off them. Even if I had to pay a lil more....again though, from the pic, your setup up is looking pretty damn good. Are you going Air/Air or Air/Water intercooler?
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:37 PM
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[QUOTE=HRHohio;17345521]Shorter stroke = Shorter rods. Less stress on the rods.

I think you might be backwards on this Shorter Stroke = Longer Rods. Less stroke means the crank is farther from the deck requiring a longer rod to make up the difference.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:42 PM
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I don't know how to link to another thread so here is a link

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...6-sp-runs.html

They are doing twins and the designer Turbo Joe at Straight Line make a twin turbo kit.

Good Luck.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:46 PM
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Actually you're both wrong. The difference in stroke determines the compression height of the piston. Rod length remains the same. Almost all aftermarket LSx rods are 6.125".

To the OP. Why dont you contact Huron Speed or Straightline for a quote on a turbo system. I bet they could build you a sweet setup for 7-8K.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mrocz76
I give you the utmost credit for undertaking the turbo endeavor on your own...however I do not have the luxury. I live in a condo, and have no place to work on the vehicle. I have a good buddy mechanic who does quality work and I am having him work on the vehicle while I am gone...so i am trying to make the build as easy for him as possible by putting in the research and trying to find a kit that has been tested and somewhat proven. I know it sounds like I want to take "The easy way" however, I do not like reinventing the wheel....and If i can find someone or a company who has put in the time and work to create a quality setup, I would prefer to piggy back off them. Even if I had to pay a lil more....again though, from the pic, your setup up is looking pretty damn good. Are you going Air/Air or Air/Water intercooler?
Message "Joe@straightline" he did JT76's twin kit and its a one off excellent quality piece. also, Huron speed is supposed to be coming out with a twin kit as well. message "Superman09" i believe thats his s/n. But your probably going to be looking at $6000-9000 easy man. ill have about $5000 in mine doing it myself. As far as the I/C im going with a Treadstone 2 inlet single outlet air to air. thanks for the compliments, its def fun building you own. and its not as hard as ya think!
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ss1
Actually you're both wrong. The difference in stroke determines the compression height of the piston. Rod length remains the same. Almost all aftermarket LSx rods are 6.125".

To the OP. Why dont you contact Huron Speed or Straightline for a quote on a turbo system. I bet they could build you a sweet setup for 7-8K.


While you are correct, so was the poster right above you. The longer the rod, the less change in degrees it has as compared to a short rod motor, which then reduces piston speed, and increases piston dwell giving you more time to burn the whole fuel charge.

Last motor I built was a 427 rat with a tall deck and 6.7" rods and a super skinny compression height. My piston speed at 8K rpms was about the equivalent of stock small block if I remember right. It's been a while since I did that calculation.

Pick up Smokey Yunicks book, he figured this **** out in the 60's.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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Again, thanks for all of the input. I just PM'ed turbo Joe and hopefully he can hook me up with some confidence in the right build for me. Any other direction would still be great if anyone else has heard of other quality builders!

Also, do most twin setups require an Aftermarket K-Member for fitment?
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 09:21 PM
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Agreed, I learned about dwell a long time ago racing SB Chevys on a circle track when going from a 5.7" to 6.0" rod. Smokey Yunick is one of my heroes. I have the hard cover version of "Sex, Lies, and Superspeedways" and also bought the wheel covers from the 68 or 69 "Platypus" Indy car when his daughter cleaned out his shop.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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Most setups will require an aftermarket "turbo k-member" for the extra clearance to run the exhaust over the K and out the back of the car.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 09:35 PM
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IMO Straightlne has the best looking kit out there. Joe looks like he knows his craft.
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mrocz76
Or any other other company that doesn't want 10K for a setup. I understand you get what you pay for, however, paying thousands more for a kit than a brand new crate motor is a little hard to swallow.
There it is^^^ Make sure you add everything up when you are figuring out your build. Because you are right you do get what you pay for. And what one kit gives up in dollars it may take 100 hours to relocate practically everything under the hood to make room for the "dollars saved" kit. So take into account if you have to buy a radiator, fans, custom A/C lines, aftermarket k-member, and the hours spent doing the countless wire soldering, back and forth trips to the parts store, etc. etc..
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 10:22 PM
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I understand exactly what you mean...I noticed you went with modular turbo, the only other company I have considered after all my research. After reading what they were about, how they prided themselves in customer service, how much time they invested into making sure they had a good product and being in the military as well, they were the first people I PM'ed.....Unfortunately, never heard a word. Which really bummed me out because my hopes were high with them...So maybe you could put in a good word for them and I will try again to get ahold of them. I am not opposed to a pricey setup if the service, quality and support is there. They never even answered the door.
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 03:55 AM
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[QUOTE=ss performance;17345681]
Originally Posted by HRHohio
Shorter stroke = Shorter rods. Less stress on the rods.

I think you might be backwards on this Shorter Stroke = Longer Rods. Less stroke means the crank is farther from the deck requiring a longer rod to make up the difference.
I stand corrected. You are definitely right, shorter stroke=longer rods. It's been a while since someone explained it to me. I do remember it having something to do with the angle of the rod at 1/4 turn. Maybe because of the longer rods, the angle is less. That may be it. I can't remember anymore. LOL. Sorry for the mis-info.
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 05:29 AM
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im.running a PA Racing super turbo k-member.
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 06:39 AM
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[QUOTE=HRHohio;17346699]
Originally Posted by ss performance

I stand corrected. You are definitely right, shorter stroke=longer rods. It's been a while since someone explained it to me. I do remember it having something to do with the angle of the rod at 1/4 turn. Maybe because of the longer rods, the angle is less. That may be it. I can't remember anymore. LOL. Sorry for the mis-info.

There is no difference in the rod length between a LS1 or a 383. What changes is the stroke and pin height. The pin height is a lot greater on a LS1 then a 383 which is more forgiving on a high HP setup.
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