FBody Twin Turbo Kits?!
-Want to retain A/C
-Goals are 6-700hp low boost, 8-9 turned up a bit. Looking for reliability and drivability, not insane HP.
-Willing to switch out K-Member.
-Engine will be rebuilt with forged internals and all proper fuel modifications will be done.
Has anyone heard of/used products from LS1turbo.com?
Also looking for an educated answer as to why it is not a good idea to stroke a turbo setup up to a 383??
Thanks!
Seems then trend has gone to a smaller cube, for strength in the piston and crank.
Also, longer rods means the angle of the connecting rod (crank rotation) from crank to piston is less. Less angular stress on the connecting rods. Becomes an issue at higher RPM. This is why those Ferrari's and such can spin their 4.5L V8's to 9,000 RPM. Well... one of the reasons... lol
(This is a VERY DUMMY'd down way of expressing it). (Also, my frame of reference was between a 4.8 and a 5.3 JY Motor, may not apply to LS1/383 setup)
Last edited by HRHohio; Apr 25, 2013 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Corrected bad info for future reference. (IN BOLD)
I think you might be backwards on this Shorter Stroke = Longer Rods. Less stroke means the crank is farther from the deck requiring a longer rod to make up the difference.
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They are doing twins and the designer Turbo Joe at Straight Line make a twin turbo kit.
Good Luck.
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To the OP. Why dont you contact Huron Speed or Straightline for a quote on a turbo system. I bet they could build you a sweet setup for 7-8K.
To the OP. Why dont you contact Huron Speed or Straightline for a quote on a turbo system. I bet they could build you a sweet setup for 7-8K.
While you are correct, so was the poster right above you. The longer the rod, the less change in degrees it has as compared to a short rod motor, which then reduces piston speed, and increases piston dwell giving you more time to burn the whole fuel charge.
Last motor I built was a 427 rat with a tall deck and 6.7" rods and a super skinny compression height. My piston speed at 8K rpms was about the equivalent of stock small block if I remember right. It's been a while since I did that calculation.
Pick up Smokey Yunicks book, he figured this **** out in the 60's.
Also, do most twin setups require an Aftermarket K-Member for fitment?
I stand corrected. You are definitely right, shorter stroke=longer rods. It's been a while since someone explained it to me. I do remember it having something to do with the angle of the rod at 1/4 turn. Maybe because of the longer rods, the angle is less. That may be it. I can't remember anymore. LOL. Sorry for the mis-info.
There is no difference in the rod length between a LS1 or a 383. What changes is the stroke and pin height. The pin height is a lot greater on a LS1 then a 383 which is more forgiving on a high HP setup.




