Who has relocated radiator to the rear??
#21
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Years ago my mom had a 87 Fiero GT, Engine was in the rear and radiator was up front. It didn't have a inline water pump in fact the 2.8L V6 had the same water pump you could find on any 3rd gen 2.8 or 3.4 liter. Lines were 1" from front to back. I would say attempt it without or test the flow of the exiting pump by grabbing some 1" PVC cut two pieces approx 8 ft long attach them to the radiator hose and run them to a 5 gallon bucket of water. Start the car and see how much flow you get with the factor belt driven pump pretty sure it will be more than sufficient.
The cool thing is it would increase the capacity of the cooling system about 2-3 gallons helping bring down temps further. Each Gallon of water weighs 8 pounds so you would probably add 35 pounds of weight doing this the majority being to the rear of the front wheels which would help with distribution.
The cool thing is it would increase the capacity of the cooling system about 2-3 gallons helping bring down temps further. Each Gallon of water weighs 8 pounds so you would probably add 35 pounds of weight doing this the majority being to the rear of the front wheels which would help with distribution.
#22
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
this guy is on the 9s with rad mounted on rear ..
theres a couple of pics in the thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/single-di...per-video.html
theres a couple of pics in the thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/single-di...per-video.html
#25
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
thinking about doing this to my s10. throw the rad right in the bed and make a scoop from underneath for airflow while driving. csr makes a 37gpm for $240 and jegs makes a 50gpm for only $10 more. jegs also makes a 20gpm for $180ish but i dont think that would be sufficient enough for cooling an engine (probably meant for a2w intercoolers). i could relocate my turbos and dump the exhaust where i want if i relocated the radiator and intercooler placement would be better. alot of benefits
#26
Be careful with electric water pumps! They are not all the same. You want about a bar presure difference either side of the water pump. Alot of electric Pumps deliver VERY POOR flow rates at that presure difference.
#27
my buddy runs a rear mounted rad in his 1jz drift 240sx. he runs a massive rad back there with the trunk floor cut out and a louvered rear deck lid. along with a 2 speed Taurus fan and 2 speed Volvo fan relay it stays cool reving the hell out it at drift event. the biggest thing is getting the air in, thru the rad and out. but as long as ducting is sealed tight it will work great. also he used the cooling pipes from a mr2 to run under the car.
#28
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
my buddy runs a rear mounted rad in his 1jz drift 240sx. he runs a massive rad back there with the trunk floor cut out and a louvered rear deck lid. along with a 2 speed Taurus fan and 2 speed Volvo fan relay it stays cool reving the hell out it at drift event. the biggest thing is getting the air in, thru the rad and out. but as long as ducting is sealed tight it will work great. also he used the cooling pipes from a mr2 to run under the car.
#29
pretty sure they are aluminum. with that length of pipe and the air passing under the car I doubt heat soak would be an issue. id go stainless just for piece of mind on a street car. think biggest challenge is getting air back out of trunk area.
Last edited by j_tizzle_84; 08-13-2013 at 04:11 PM.
#30
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Find out how big his lines are if you can. 3/4, 1 inch, something like that?
#32
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
What I'm thinking at the moment is use the stock water pump. Reduce the inlet and outlets down after pump to 1" or 1.25". Run lines back to t top storage area which will get cut out and customized. Lines will follow in original factory exhaust path over the rearend. Mount a griffin 26x19 or something close to that size with stock OE fans used as pullers again like they were from factory. Also a radiator cap on the radiator will be accessible through a access panel through interior of car and on the other ending it will also have a bleeder screw or something of that nature. Few areas to get all air pockets out. I don't know when I'll get around to all this but this is my next low budget project. Should get out for around 200-250. Or that's the plan. When I start I will post up a specific thread for it with very details pictures since there are not many out there doing this much less explaining details and documenting photos.
Last edited by mrstepheneades; 08-13-2013 at 10:09 PM.
#34
Sup doods....I've been dialing in a rear mount rad setup on my S13 this season. Biggest issues are you're ducting and line size/flow rates. I wouldn't run 1"...1.25" will be fine with stock waterpump. I tried stock waterpump and -16an lines (roughly 7/8"-1" ID depending on brand) and it wasn't enough flow to keep the thing cool. -20an lines are in the car now and working well, but the biggest factor is the ducting. You have to be able to draw cool/outside temp air across the rad at all times. Depending on where your exhaust dumps and rad location you'll want to make sure the exhaust dumps after the rad or have the bottom of your rad mounting/floor sealed well to keep the hot exhaust air out.
Also, the hot air passing through the rad has to be able to escape fast and easily. Very simple concepts but often get overlooked/not done well enough.
I'll grab some better pics at the event this weekend and post 'em up after
Also, the hot air passing through the rad has to be able to escape fast and easily. Very simple concepts but often get overlooked/not done well enough.
I'll grab some better pics at the event this weekend and post 'em up after