General turbo install questions
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
General turbo install questions Getting close to begin to figure the turbo mount and hot side.
I have a few questions specific to my turbo (BW S476R)
and car.
The exh output flange is 4". Do I run a 4" pipe? Or increase it to 5"? Going to run it out either in front of or behind the pass front wheel.
Was planning on 2.25" primary. The turbo is dual scroll. Is this the correct size? I have a bunch of 2.5 U bends, but will buy 2.25 if its best. Columbia River mandrel is just ten miles from me.
GM cable TB are what? 78mm? And cheap. Do I need or want a 90mm? I'm running the edel ProFlow intake. Is the truck cable unit same size as the car?
Oil drain into the pan. Can I drill and tap? Or weld? Plan to use a -10 fitting. I don't TIG, or have any friends who do as far as I know.
Anyone else using the new Holley fuel pump? They have -10 fittings. Seems excessive to me. The car has -8 line on it, I'd like to use it if I can.
I'll be running E85.
Thanks ,
Ron
I have a few questions specific to my turbo (BW S476R)
and car.
The exh output flange is 4". Do I run a 4" pipe? Or increase it to 5"? Going to run it out either in front of or behind the pass front wheel.
Was planning on 2.25" primary. The turbo is dual scroll. Is this the correct size? I have a bunch of 2.5 U bends, but will buy 2.25 if its best. Columbia River mandrel is just ten miles from me.
GM cable TB are what? 78mm? And cheap. Do I need or want a 90mm? I'm running the edel ProFlow intake. Is the truck cable unit same size as the car?
Oil drain into the pan. Can I drill and tap? Or weld? Plan to use a -10 fitting. I don't TIG, or have any friends who do as far as I know.
Anyone else using the new Holley fuel pump? They have -10 fittings. Seems excessive to me. The car has -8 line on it, I'd like to use it if I can.
I'll be running E85.
Thanks ,
Ron
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2012
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4" DP will be fine
what size ci is the motor? some people prefer smaller diameter crossovers to increase the exhaust velocity, depends on your cubic inches to make a better call on diameter size
i drilled the pan on my first setup and welded a fitting, used the timing cover on second setup, your call. but if you are doing this with the motor out of the car, just drill and weld a fitting in the pan/timing cover
what size ci is the motor? some people prefer smaller diameter crossovers to increase the exhaust velocity, depends on your cubic inches to make a better call on diameter size
i drilled the pan on my first setup and welded a fitting, used the timing cover on second setup, your call. but if you are doing this with the motor out of the car, just drill and weld a fitting in the pan/timing cover
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2011
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I would leave 4"
I am using the Holley Dominator but my A-1000's worked just as well. I have had no problems with the Holley and only switched because I thought it was better but the A-1000's worked just as well. However, the Holley is recommended for E85 which is a plus. I also run the Holley running both pumps at the same time. No problems on the street.
I could be wrong but I think you will need a 90mm TB to work with the edelbrock Pro Flo intake. I use a UMI 90mm. Not a 100 percent sure though.
I tapped the side of my oil pan but I should have welded the drain fittings. At some point I am going to pull the engine and weld the fittings on. Just not enough material to drill and tap. I used sealent but it still has a very small leak by them.
I would get one of stock 48's cams to go with your set up. He has proven it works.
I am using the Holley Dominator but my A-1000's worked just as well. I have had no problems with the Holley and only switched because I thought it was better but the A-1000's worked just as well. However, the Holley is recommended for E85 which is a plus. I also run the Holley running both pumps at the same time. No problems on the street.
I could be wrong but I think you will need a 90mm TB to work with the edelbrock Pro Flo intake. I use a UMI 90mm. Not a 100 percent sure though.
I tapped the side of my oil pan but I should have welded the drain fittings. At some point I am going to pull the engine and weld the fittings on. Just not enough material to drill and tap. I used sealent but it still has a very small leak by them.
I would get one of stock 48's cams to go with your set up. He has proven it works.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
Doh, it's a 5.3
I have a practice pan, I'll see how thick the Mast pan is. But I'll find someone to weld for me.
I have an adapter for the manifold to mount the smaller TB, it was cheap. More wondering about power diff.
I have a custom cam from Martin. The engine is all assembled.
Thanks
Ron
I have a practice pan, I'll see how thick the Mast pan is. But I'll find someone to weld for me.
I have an adapter for the manifold to mount the smaller TB, it was cheap. More wondering about power diff.
I have a custom cam from Martin. The engine is all assembled.
Thanks
Ron
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
Received the Mast pan today. Very nice quality. Has a tap for oil pressure gauge as well as plugs for rote filter or cooler. Perfect spot for turbo oil feed.
As far as the turbo oil drain, the pan is thick! So the plan is to drill and tap. I'll let you know how that goes. If I fk it up, then weld!
One small issue....the pan hits in the pickup tube! Arghh
Ron
As far as the turbo oil drain, the pan is thick! So the plan is to drill and tap. I'll let you know how that goes. If I fk it up, then weld!
One small issue....the pan hits in the pickup tube! Arghh
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Nov 14, 2013 at 08:07 PM.
TECH Fanatic
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Doh, it's a 5.3
I have a practice pan, I'll see how thick the Mast pan is. But I'll find someone to weld for me.
I have an adapter for the manifold to mount the smaller TB, it was cheap. More wondering about power diff.
I have a custom cam from Martin. The engine is all assembled.
Thanks
Ron
I have a practice pan, I'll see how thick the Mast pan is. But I'll find someone to weld for me.
I have an adapter for the manifold to mount the smaller TB, it was cheap. More wondering about power diff.
I have a custom cam from Martin. The engine is all assembled.
Thanks
Ron
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I would go 4" with the downpipe, just because the cost increase to go 5" is considerable.
2.5" pipe
The Edelbrock proflo is a 90mm opening, but you would be fine running stock TB.
Just grab a 10AN to 8AN adapter. done
2.5" pipe
The Edelbrock proflo is a 90mm opening, but you would be fine running stock TB.
Just grab a 10AN to 8AN adapter. done
9 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 147
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From: Michigan
2.25" hotside and 4" downpipe will work perfect. The drain depends on where you mount your turbo, As shown/mentioned, the oil pan and timing cover can both be tapped. You could use a bulkhead fitting in the pan but its not ideal. The stock TB will work, just be sure to buy the edelbrock adapter plate to mount it. You can always upgrade when funding allows down the road.
I have a complete 4" Columbia River mild steel builders kit if you want to go that route, I bought it thinking about trying to use it but ended up dumping the 5" out the fender. Just PM me if you are interested.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
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From: Portland, OR
Thanks for the responses.
The pan was thick enough, tapped for 3/8 pipe, worked very well.
2.25 on the hot side it is!
The outlet is going to be dictated by the turbo placement. I'll go 5" if it will fit.
I have a line on a TB, if the member responds. (Which he hasn't, oh well, they are out there)
Ron
The pan was thick enough, tapped for 3/8 pipe, worked very well.
2.25 on the hot side it is!
The outlet is going to be dictated by the turbo placement. I'll go 5" if it will fit.
I have a line on a TB, if the member responds. (Which he hasn't, oh well, they are out there)
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Nov 19, 2013 at 05:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
Anyone use Columbia River V-bands?
How about their flexes?
Also, I have a BW S476 turbo.
What do I need there for the turbine outlet V-band? The size is a little confusing.
5" correct? And male or female to the pipe?
Does this look correct?
I also need a T6 divided flange.
This looks like it could double as a mount.
Both from RPS
Thanks
Ron
How about their flexes?
Also, I have a BW S476 turbo.
What do I need there for the turbine outlet V-band? The size is a little confusing.
5" correct? And male or female to the pipe?
Does this look correct?
I also need a T6 divided flange.
This looks like it could double as a mount.
Both from RPS
Thanks
Ron
The CR vbands are very nice. Used them lots a times. A little expensive but they are quality.
I cant remember what flex CR sells but make sure to use one with a liner that looks like flexible exhaust tubing, not braid. I get them from ZZperformance on Fleabay.
RPS has what you need on the turbine outlet. One flange like on the left or right in your pic and a clamp. The one in the middle is aluminum for drag racers.
Yes, that extended flange will work nicely.
I cant remember what flex CR sells but make sure to use one with a liner that looks like flexible exhaust tubing, not braid. I get them from ZZperformance on Fleabay.
RPS has what you need on the turbine outlet. One flange like on the left or right in your pic and a clamp. The one in the middle is aluminum for drag racers.
Yes, that extended flange will work nicely.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
One last question.
I am thinkig I'd like to do the hot side with mild steel aluminised tubing.
I can MIG quite well. And it's cheap. Some good high heat paint and it won't look half bad either.
My engine guy, race car fabricator said use 304 stainless. I realize it can also be MIG welded. But I haven't ever done that. I guess there is also 409SS. And two more better materials.
What are the thoughts on this? One fellow told me 304 will crack and break?
My fab guy can TIG for me, but I know how that goes when you don't actually build and weld it on the car, it likely won't fit when done.
Any input appreciated.
BTW, I was going to buy and learn how to TIG as part of this project, but the loss of my job solved that decision for me.
Ron
I am thinkig I'd like to do the hot side with mild steel aluminised tubing.
I can MIG quite well. And it's cheap. Some good high heat paint and it won't look half bad either.
My engine guy, race car fabricator said use 304 stainless. I realize it can also be MIG welded. But I haven't ever done that. I guess there is also 409SS. And two more better materials.
What are the thoughts on this? One fellow told me 304 will crack and break?
My fab guy can TIG for me, but I know how that goes when you don't actually build and weld it on the car, it likely won't fit when done.
Any input appreciated.
BTW, I was going to buy and learn how to TIG as part of this project, but the loss of my job solved that decision for me.
Ron
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,425
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One last question.
I am thinkig I'd like to do the hot side with mild steel aluminised tubing.
I can MIG quite well. And it's cheap. Some good high heat paint and it won't look half bad either.
My engine guy, race car fabricator said use 304 stainless. I realize it can also be MIG welded. But I haven't ever done that. I guess there is also 409SS. And two more better materials.
What are the thoughts on this? One fellow told me 304 will crack and break?
My fab guy can TIG for me, but I know how that goes when you don't actually build and weld it on the car, it likely won't fit when done.
Any input appreciated.
BTW, I was going to buy and learn how to TIG as part of this project, but the loss of my job solved that decision for me.
Ron
I am thinkig I'd like to do the hot side with mild steel aluminised tubing.
I can MIG quite well. And it's cheap. Some good high heat paint and it won't look half bad either.
My engine guy, race car fabricator said use 304 stainless. I realize it can also be MIG welded. But I haven't ever done that. I guess there is also 409SS. And two more better materials.
What are the thoughts on this? One fellow told me 304 will crack and break?
My fab guy can TIG for me, but I know how that goes when you don't actually build and weld it on the car, it likely won't fit when done.
Any input appreciated.
BTW, I was going to buy and learn how to TIG as part of this project, but the loss of my job solved that decision for me.
Ron
Keep with your plan of aluminized and mig. 304 is nice but costs more and takes much much longer to weld it up. You get it done cheaply and then can paint and wrap it. Keeps the heat down very well. Save learing Tig for the next one. The guy who says 304 wont hold up is wrong.