stainless vs mild help
Dont burn though the pipe 
The weld only needs to be on the outside.
A lot of stuff I see no one adds the correct amount of filler rod, they fuse it more than welding it... more heat than filler, so of course they burn the **** our of it. Sure it looks pretty but isnt how you do it. It also doesnt need to be welded with 100% penetration as I doubt any of them get x-rayed.
The only way a weld should come through to the inside is if you leave a gap, and the gap is so the bead forms no the underside making it 100% You could do that but unless you are running high pressure and need to meet specs..... waste of time on a low pressure system.
The weld only needs to be on the outside. A lot of stuff I see no one adds the correct amount of filler rod, they fuse it more than welding it... more heat than filler, so of course they burn the **** our of it. Sure it looks pretty but isnt how you do it. It also doesnt need to be welded with 100% penetration as I doubt any of them get x-rayed.
The only way a weld should come through to the inside is if you leave a gap, and the gap is so the bead forms no the underside making it 100% You could do that but unless you are running high pressure and need to meet specs..... waste of time on a low pressure system.Purging promotes penetration yet at the same time helping the penetration stay close to flush with the inner pipe wall
FormerVendor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 547
Likes: 1
Man this poor guy is going to be scared to open his hood. Do this don't do that.
I owned 2 muffler shops for 12 years from the early 90's-early 2000's. I have installed thousands and thousands of feet of aluminized pipe. If you want to see a pipe that has been over heated just look at the pipes coming from the manifolds of a motor home with a big block Chevy, Ford or Mopar. The aluminized pipe will get a dark gray look to it.
But I have never seen it flake.
Them old retired farts would bring there motor homes in after a trip in the mountains towing there car and the exhaust got so hot and stayed hot for so long that the heat migrated up the hanger and burnt the rubber off the hangers.
Aluminized pipe is a great value. It tough as nails and it is cheap.
If you go mild steel and send it out for thermal coating the cost will be about the same as SS. At that point just go with the SS.
I owned 2 muffler shops for 12 years from the early 90's-early 2000's. I have installed thousands and thousands of feet of aluminized pipe. If you want to see a pipe that has been over heated just look at the pipes coming from the manifolds of a motor home with a big block Chevy, Ford or Mopar. The aluminized pipe will get a dark gray look to it.
But I have never seen it flake.
Them old retired farts would bring there motor homes in after a trip in the mountains towing there car and the exhaust got so hot and stayed hot for so long that the heat migrated up the hanger and burnt the rubber off the hangers.
Aluminized pipe is a great value. It tough as nails and it is cheap.
If you go mild steel and send it out for thermal coating the cost will be about the same as SS. At that point just go with the SS.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
Man this poor guy is going to be scared to open his hood. Do this don't do that.
I owned 2 muffler shops for 12 years from the early 90's-early 2000's. I have installed thousands and thousands of feet of aluminized pipe. If you want to see a pipe that has been over heated just look at the pipes coming from the manifolds of a motor home with a big block Chevy, Ford or Mopar. The aluminized pipe will get a dark gray look to it.
But I have never seen it flake.
Them old retired farts would bring there motor homes in after a trip in the mountains towing there car and the exhaust got so hot and stayed hot for so long that the heat migrated up the hanger and burnt the rubber off the hangers.
Aluminized pipe is a great value. It tough as nails and it is cheap.
If you go mild steel and send it out for thermal coating the cost will be about the same as SS. At that point just go with the SS.
I owned 2 muffler shops for 12 years from the early 90's-early 2000's. I have installed thousands and thousands of feet of aluminized pipe. If you want to see a pipe that has been over heated just look at the pipes coming from the manifolds of a motor home with a big block Chevy, Ford or Mopar. The aluminized pipe will get a dark gray look to it.
But I have never seen it flake.
Them old retired farts would bring there motor homes in after a trip in the mountains towing there car and the exhaust got so hot and stayed hot for so long that the heat migrated up the hanger and burnt the rubber off the hangers.
Aluminized pipe is a great value. It tough as nails and it is cheap.
If you go mild steel and send it out for thermal coating the cost will be about the same as SS. At that point just go with the SS.
This was mig welded and made from a cut up y pipe off a chevy pickup with a 5.3 . Still had a carbon buildup in it when I welded it. Not pretty but works no leaks and still works fine.
FormerVendor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 547
Likes: 1
gotta love-yea some Denmah........
Chris, we appreciate your real world advice! I've never seen aluminized pipe flake either. It certainly gets red hot when you weld it W/O flaking.
I just finished this. I needed a straight piece, it's SS left over from modifying my corvette exh. Welded to the aluminized just fine with steel wire and 75/25 gas.
These welds I'll grind smooth as this is the intake side.
One thing to mention is to be sure and thoroughly clean the insides of both the exh and intake piping before using. Sure don't want any crap going through the turbine or god forbid into the intake!
I just finished this. I needed a straight piece, it's SS left over from modifying my corvette exh. Welded to the aluminized just fine with steel wire and 75/25 gas.
These welds I'll grind smooth as this is the intake side.
One thing to mention is to be sure and thoroughly clean the insides of both the exh and intake piping before using. Sure don't want any crap going through the turbine or god forbid into the intake!
leaving a gap only insures that it will shrink. I dont understand why people complicate this and make it out to be this huge science that it isnt.
I did this for 9 years welding high pressure piping and vessels (ASME V cert) and a lot of low pressure and high temp stuff. You can put an 1/8" weld on an 1/8 inch pipe with zero penetration and it will be suffice to whatever the pipe is rated. If you make it 100% you are actually adding a 1/8 weld + the thickness of the pipe which is 1/8 and actually have 1/4 inch of weld. It doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure out that you dont need 1/4" of weld on an 1/8" pipe.
Then for the fusers, people that dont know how to add the correct amount of filler rod (flat welds, concaved) they need the 100% penetration because they dont know how to weld corectly. The only other reason you'd ever need 100% penetration is if you were going to grind all the welds off and make everything smooth. Other than that, seriously, its a waste of time.
