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-   -   pushrods (https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1754861-pushrods.html)

TLEHN 10-28-2014 10:45 PM

pushrods
 
I was wondering what pushrods I should go with... 5.3 I got a tick performance turbo cam they recommend hardened push rods how do I find out what pushrods I need way too many choices to guess Lol thanks

cptinjak 10-29-2014 07:45 AM

http://www.jegs.com/p/COMP-Cams/Comp...53211/10002/-1

Jack

Sales@Tick 10-29-2014 03:18 PM

Our house brand push rods are made by Trend and are an excellent choice. I personally like to use a .105" wall 5/16" diameter in this type of application if the customer's budget allows.

The .105" wall push rods are more expensive, but stronger.

cptinjak 10-29-2014 03:46 PM


Originally Posted by Martin@Tick (Post 18500896)
Our house brand push rods are made by Trend and are an excellent choice. I personally like to use a .105" wall 5/16" diameter in this type of application if the customer's budget allows.

The .105" wall push rods are more expensive, but stronger.

What is the weight difference between those and standard 5/16? What's the benefit vs runnning an 11/32 pushrod?

Jack

JustAFooL 10-29-2014 05:51 PM


Originally Posted by cptinjak (Post 18500971)
What is the weight difference between those and standard 5/16? What's the benefit vs runnning an 11/32 pushrod?

Jack


Thicker pushrods are just stronger.. Don't bend as easy. Just a theory though.. :bomb:

cptinjak 10-30-2014 07:07 AM


Originally Posted by JustAFooL (Post 18501182)
Thicker pushrods are just stronger.. Don't bend as easy. Just a theory though.. :bomb:

I'm aware. I'm asking why someone would do a thick wall 5/16 instead of the 11/32 PR.

Jack

Old Geezer 10-30-2014 08:28 AM

Check the..
 

Originally Posted by cptinjak (Post 18501958)
I'm aware. I'm asking why someone would do a thick wall 5/16 instead of the 11/32 PR.

Jack

rod clearance going thru the head.....

cptinjak 10-30-2014 08:30 AM


Originally Posted by Old Geezer (Post 18502057)
rod clearance going thru the head.....

That's an easy fix. I've seen people run 3/8" before.

Jack

Sales@Tick 10-30-2014 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by cptinjak (Post 18500971)
What is the weight difference between those and standard 5/16? What's the benefit vs runnning an 11/32 pushrod?

Jack

Jack,

Push rod weight is something that has never concerned me and if you ask any of the top engine builders that I'm certain Bullseye associates with, they'd tell you the same thing.

Most customers at this level do not wish to spend the added cost on larger diameter push rods so I offer the thicker wall 5/16" at a slightly higher cost and as a better alternative to .080" wall 5/16" push rods.

Originally Posted by cptinjak (Post 18501958)
I'm aware. I'm asking why someone would do a thick wall 5/16 instead of the 11/32 PR.

Jack

Again, cost. If the customer is willing to spend the added money for the 11/32" or larger it is always a plus.

Originally Posted by cptinjak (Post 18502065)
That's an easy fix. I've seen people run 3/8" before.

Jack

Jack,

Again, cost is a factor and a straight tube 3/8" will not clear in most factory casting or even aftermarket casting LS cylinder heads. I've even had some customers have issues with dual tapered 5/16-3/8 diameter push rods.

cptinjak 10-30-2014 10:04 AM


Originally Posted by Martin@Tick (Post 18502193)
Jack,

Push rod weight is something that has never concerned me and if you ask any of the top engine builders that I'm certain Bullseye associates with, they'd tell you the same thing.

I agree. I was just curious. Weight is always second to stiffness, but it's not totally unimportant. I worked for Visner Engine Development for years (that's how I met Bill and started at Bullseye) so I'm rather familiar with valvetrain theory.

Originally Posted by Martin@Tick (Post 18502193)
Most customers at this level do not wish to spend the added cost on larger diameter push rods so I offer the thicker wall 5/16" at a slightly higher cost and as a better alternative to .080" wall 5/16" push rods.

Again, cost. If the customer is willing to spend the added money for the 11/32" or larger it is always a plus.


Jack,

Again, cost is a factor and a straight tube 3/8" will not clear in most factory casting or even aftermarket casting LS cylinder heads. I've even had some customers have issues with dual tapered 5/16-3/8 diameter push rods.

Perhaps my time at VED makes the thought of epoxying PR tubes into the intake ports a lot less scary to me than to others because I'm so used to pushing the limits of cast heads. I'm the kind of idiot who just spent a few months hacking up a pos pro comp and building my own short runner large plenum intake manifold out of the base of it (just used the flanges and TB snout basically) because I didn't want to buy a FAST (I recommend just buying a FAST).

Thanks for the info Martin

Jack

Sales@Tick 10-30-2014 11:20 AM


Originally Posted by cptinjak (Post 18502210)
I agree. I was just curious. Weight is always second to stiffness, but it's not totally unimportant. I worked for Visner Engine Development for years (that's how I met Bill and started at Bullseye) so I'm rather familiar with valvetrain theory.


Perhaps my time at VED makes the thought of epoxying PR tubes into the intake ports a lot less scary to me than to others because I'm so used to pushing the limits of cast heads. I'm the kind of idiot who just spent a few months hacking up a pos pro comp and building my own short runner large plenum intake manifold out of the base of it (just used the flanges and TB snout basically) because I didn't want to buy a FAST (I recommend just buying a FAST).

Thanks for the info Martin

Jack

Jack,

I agree that weight is second to stiffness especially on the lifter side of the valve train. I'd add weight on that side of the valve train any day of the week to gain stiffness. Journal diameter, lifter diameter, push rod diameter(which I always would rather have a larger diameter push rod than a thicker wall) and push rod stiffness are critical to keeping things from flexing in the valve train. The more power the engine makes, the more this becomes a concern. As you most certainly know from working at Visner!

I agree about push rod tubes! There is an Edelbrock casting that a cylinder head shop we use offers. He will add bronze push rod tubes so that up to a 3/4" diameter push rod can be used. I always use the biggest diameter push rod the head can fit and a customer is willing to purchase cost wise.

I would LOVE to see some pictures of that intake manifold you fabricated as it sounds like something right up my alley! LOL

cptinjak 10-30-2014 12:24 PM


Originally Posted by Martin@Tick (Post 18502306)
Jack,

I agree that weight is second to stiffness especially on the lifter side of the valve train. I'd add weight on that side of the valve train any day of the week to gain stiffness. Journal diameter, lifter diameter, push rod diameter(which I always would rather have a larger diameter push rod than a thicker wall) and push rod stiffness are critical to keeping things from flexing in the valve train. The more power the engine makes, the more this becomes a concern. As you most certainly know from working at Visner!

I agree about push rod tubes! There is an Edelbrock casting that a cylinder head shop we use offers. He will add bronze push rod tubes so that up to a 3/4" diameter push rod can be used. I always use the biggest diameter push rod the head can fit and a customer is willing to purchase cost wise.

I would LOVE to see some pictures of that intake manifold you fabricated as it sounds like something right up my alley! LOL

Agreed! If there's no room, make room!

I'm a bad welder. Don't judge me.

There are some in-process pics here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...6255259&type=3

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...fd&oe=54AA5573

Jack

The Alchemist 10-30-2014 01:18 PM

That manifold is pretty slick. I agree that running the biggest diameter pushrod is always a good idea. I know my PI heads have the ability to run some pretty thick ones. I may re-evaluate what I'm running soon.

Sales@Tick 11-03-2014 11:28 AM

Missed the pictures of the manifold, WOW!

cptinjak 11-03-2014 03:19 PM


Originally Posted by Martin@Tick (Post 18507970)
Missed the pictures of the manifold, WOW!

I know. I'm a hack. It's not pretty but it'll work just fine. Unfortunately out of time to get to the track again this year to get some results.

Jack

Sales@Tick 11-03-2014 05:11 PM

If that's what you call a hack......

LOL

cptinjak 11-04-2014 02:05 PM


Originally Posted by Martin@Tick (Post 18508478)
If that's what you call a hack......

LOL

Well, before the grinder and spray paint it looked pretty bad...

Jack

dangkhoavu 11-04-2014 02:34 PM

Jeez, that manifold looks awesome! Do you have any pictures during the process?

cptinjak 11-04-2014 03:42 PM


Originally Posted by dangkhoavu (Post 18509892)
Jeez, that manifold looks awesome! Do you have any pictures during the process?

There's a photo album link above the photo.

Jack

samdogmx 11-04-2014 07:27 PM

a bigger diameter pushrod is better than thicker wall from what I hear.


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