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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 10:45 PM
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Default pushrods

I was wondering what pushrods I should go with... 5.3 I got a tick performance turbo cam they recommend hardened push rods how do I find out what pushrods I need way too many choices to guess Lol thanks
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 07:45 AM
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http://www.jegs.com/p/COMP-Cams/Comp...53211/10002/-1

Jack
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 03:18 PM
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Our house brand push rods are made by Trend and are an excellent choice. I personally like to use a .105" wall 5/16" diameter in this type of application if the customer's budget allows.

The .105" wall push rods are more expensive, but stronger.
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Our house brand push rods are made by Trend and are an excellent choice. I personally like to use a .105" wall 5/16" diameter in this type of application if the customer's budget allows.

The .105" wall push rods are more expensive, but stronger.
What is the weight difference between those and standard 5/16? What's the benefit vs runnning an 11/32 pushrod?

Jack
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by cptinjak
What is the weight difference between those and standard 5/16? What's the benefit vs runnning an 11/32 pushrod?

Jack

Thicker pushrods are just stronger.. Don't bend as easy. Just a theory though..
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Old Oct 30, 2014 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by JustAFooL
Thicker pushrods are just stronger.. Don't bend as easy. Just a theory though..
I'm aware. I'm asking why someone would do a thick wall 5/16 instead of the 11/32 PR.

Jack
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Old Oct 30, 2014 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by cptinjak
I'm aware. I'm asking why someone would do a thick wall 5/16 instead of the 11/32 PR.

Jack
rod clearance going thru the head.....
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Old Oct 30, 2014 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Geezer
rod clearance going thru the head.....
That's an easy fix. I've seen people run 3/8" before.

Jack
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Old Oct 30, 2014 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by cptinjak
What is the weight difference between those and standard 5/16? What's the benefit vs runnning an 11/32 pushrod?

Jack
Jack,

Push rod weight is something that has never concerned me and if you ask any of the top engine builders that I'm certain Bullseye associates with, they'd tell you the same thing.

Most customers at this level do not wish to spend the added cost on larger diameter push rods so I offer the thicker wall 5/16" at a slightly higher cost and as a better alternative to .080" wall 5/16" push rods.
Originally Posted by cptinjak
I'm aware. I'm asking why someone would do a thick wall 5/16 instead of the 11/32 PR.

Jack
Again, cost. If the customer is willing to spend the added money for the 11/32" or larger it is always a plus.
Originally Posted by cptinjak
That's an easy fix. I've seen people run 3/8" before.

Jack
Jack,

Again, cost is a factor and a straight tube 3/8" will not clear in most factory casting or even aftermarket casting LS cylinder heads. I've even had some customers have issues with dual tapered 5/16-3/8 diameter push rods.
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Old Oct 30, 2014 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Jack,

Push rod weight is something that has never concerned me and if you ask any of the top engine builders that I'm certain Bullseye associates with, they'd tell you the same thing.
I agree. I was just curious. Weight is always second to stiffness, but it's not totally unimportant. I worked for Visner Engine Development for years (that's how I met Bill and started at Bullseye) so I'm rather familiar with valvetrain theory.
Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Most customers at this level do not wish to spend the added cost on larger diameter push rods so I offer the thicker wall 5/16" at a slightly higher cost and as a better alternative to .080" wall 5/16" push rods.

Again, cost. If the customer is willing to spend the added money for the 11/32" or larger it is always a plus.


Jack,

Again, cost is a factor and a straight tube 3/8" will not clear in most factory casting or even aftermarket casting LS cylinder heads. I've even had some customers have issues with dual tapered 5/16-3/8 diameter push rods.
Perhaps my time at VED makes the thought of epoxying PR tubes into the intake ports a lot less scary to me than to others because I'm so used to pushing the limits of cast heads. I'm the kind of idiot who just spent a few months hacking up a pos pro comp and building my own short runner large plenum intake manifold out of the base of it (just used the flanges and TB snout basically) because I didn't want to buy a FAST (I recommend just buying a FAST).

Thanks for the info Martin

Jack
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Old Oct 30, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cptinjak
I agree. I was just curious. Weight is always second to stiffness, but it's not totally unimportant. I worked for Visner Engine Development for years (that's how I met Bill and started at Bullseye) so I'm rather familiar with valvetrain theory.


Perhaps my time at VED makes the thought of epoxying PR tubes into the intake ports a lot less scary to me than to others because I'm so used to pushing the limits of cast heads. I'm the kind of idiot who just spent a few months hacking up a pos pro comp and building my own short runner large plenum intake manifold out of the base of it (just used the flanges and TB snout basically) because I didn't want to buy a FAST (I recommend just buying a FAST).

Thanks for the info Martin

Jack
Jack,

I agree that weight is second to stiffness especially on the lifter side of the valve train. I'd add weight on that side of the valve train any day of the week to gain stiffness. Journal diameter, lifter diameter, push rod diameter(which I always would rather have a larger diameter push rod than a thicker wall) and push rod stiffness are critical to keeping things from flexing in the valve train. The more power the engine makes, the more this becomes a concern. As you most certainly know from working at Visner!

I agree about push rod tubes! There is an Edelbrock casting that a cylinder head shop we use offers. He will add bronze push rod tubes so that up to a 3/4" diameter push rod can be used. I always use the biggest diameter push rod the head can fit and a customer is willing to purchase cost wise.

I would LOVE to see some pictures of that intake manifold you fabricated as it sounds like something right up my alley! LOL
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Old Oct 30, 2014 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Jack,

I agree that weight is second to stiffness especially on the lifter side of the valve train. I'd add weight on that side of the valve train any day of the week to gain stiffness. Journal diameter, lifter diameter, push rod diameter(which I always would rather have a larger diameter push rod than a thicker wall) and push rod stiffness are critical to keeping things from flexing in the valve train. The more power the engine makes, the more this becomes a concern. As you most certainly know from working at Visner!

I agree about push rod tubes! There is an Edelbrock casting that a cylinder head shop we use offers. He will add bronze push rod tubes so that up to a 3/4" diameter push rod can be used. I always use the biggest diameter push rod the head can fit and a customer is willing to purchase cost wise.

I would LOVE to see some pictures of that intake manifold you fabricated as it sounds like something right up my alley! LOL
Agreed! If there's no room, make room!

I'm a bad welder. Don't judge me.

There are some in-process pics here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...6255259&type=3



Jack

Last edited by cptinjak; Oct 30, 2014 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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That manifold is pretty slick. I agree that running the biggest diameter pushrod is always a good idea. I know my PI heads have the ability to run some pretty thick ones. I may re-evaluate what I'm running soon.
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 11:28 AM
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Missed the pictures of the manifold, WOW!
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Missed the pictures of the manifold, WOW!
I know. I'm a hack. It's not pretty but it'll work just fine. Unfortunately out of time to get to the track again this year to get some results.

Jack
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 05:11 PM
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If that's what you call a hack......

LOL
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
If that's what you call a hack......

LOL
Well, before the grinder and spray paint it looked pretty bad...

Jack
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 02:34 PM
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Jeez, that manifold looks awesome! Do you have any pictures during the process?
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dangkhoavu
Jeez, that manifold looks awesome! Do you have any pictures during the process?
There's a photo album link above the photo.

Jack
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 07:27 PM
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a bigger diameter pushrod is better than thicker wall from what I hear.
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