Procharger D1SC build question????
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From: Kansas City MO
Thread Starter
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From: Kansas City MO
Last edited by conan; Jan 11, 2015 at 06:28 PM.
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On The Tree
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From: Kansas City MO
Well I have 1 E85 station about 50min from me so that's out. As for the heads, will they be fine as long as I don't go over 7lbs of boost? I'd rather not pay another $2500 for new heads.
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From: Kansas City MO
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Sorry for not responding about the FMIC.
I would assume yes, though I could be wrong. Would more than likely have to change the push rods for proper length.
While the 2.5 PRC's flow better than stock 317's, remember that in a FI setup it's not that big a deal. Just add another 1-2lbs of boost and you can make the same amount of power. However, with the cash you save from selling the PRC's you could possibly get the 317's ported and leave the combustion chambers alone. Better all around.
I would assume yes, though I could be wrong. Would more than likely have to change the push rods for proper length.
While the 2.5 PRC's flow better than stock 317's, remember that in a FI setup it's not that big a deal. Just add another 1-2lbs of boost and you can make the same amount of power. However, with the cash you save from selling the PRC's you could possibly get the 317's ported and leave the combustion chambers alone. Better all around.
You can reuse your rocker arms, but I would leave the springs in the 5.3L heads and sell them as is. Then get yourself a new set of dual springs for the 317's. You alway want a good spring in a forced induction app, valve float can happen easier VS N/A.
You'll also want to get a set of ARP head studs and MLS gaskets if your going to swap them.
You'll also want to get a set of ARP head studs and MLS gaskets if your going to swap them.
317 is the casting number, like 241's and 243's. The 317's are highly desirable in FI setups because the larger combustion chamber lowers compression. You could also used unmilled 241's or 243's, but 317's are your best bet.
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all the 317 head I'm finding say 6.0. Do they need to be 5.3?
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With the engines bottom end being stock, I'd just leave your cam and heads alone, add 8 psi of boost, meth injection and a good tune. Bob
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Launching!
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agreed with guy above about keep heads and cam stock, just put in arp head studs maybe, but just cranking up the boost and meth you'll make more than enough power to be fun, I'd guess 600whp or 750hp at the motor should be easily doable?? and meth is a MUST DO imo on any supercharged setup especially one with stock bottom end. its super easy to live with. and FMIC for sure if you can swing it but if I had to choose one get an alky control setup from julio and call it a day. I made 760/700 on my 9.5:! MTI built 402ci LS2 setup with FMIC and meth at 13 psi with terrible local tune that ended up hurting my motor. even driving like an idiot barely go through a can of meth a month or less depending. if you're talking 700rwhp though you'll be on borrowed time on stock bottom end so meth becomes a must just to keep the motor alive. get a good tuner with a good reputation! don't nuke your motor from idiot local tuner like me! 700+whp is a lot and there are more than a few tuners out there who don't have the experience to deal with these motors at that level on pump gas.
you can have the tuner do the tune so that when/if IATs get too high from being out of meth or meth pump fails that the tune just pulls all the timing and motor falls flat on its face so you don't have any issues if you run out or something happens, nice fail safe.
you can have the tuner do the tune so that when/if IATs get too high from being out of meth or meth pump fails that the tune just pulls all the timing and motor falls flat on its face so you don't have any issues if you run out or something happens, nice fail safe.