Procharger: 0 Boost
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From: Jacksonville NC
Procharger: 0 Boost Hey guys, I finally got to getting the car tuned. Hooked up the belt before the tuner stuck it on the dyno.
Well, the car is making 0 boost. I think the problem is with the By Pass Surge Valve. Theres a fitting for a rubber hose on there, I have a feeling this is suppose to hook up to a vacuum source?
Where should this be attached? Would this solve the problem?
Thanks guys!
Well, the car is making 0 boost. I think the problem is with the By Pass Surge Valve. Theres a fitting for a rubber hose on there, I have a feeling this is suppose to hook up to a vacuum source?
Where should this be attached? Would this solve the problem?
Thanks guys!
Yes the bypass needs to be hooked up to a vacuum source ot the pressure will blow it right open.
Read the ATI directions carefully, if you hook the bypass to the wrong side of the plastic check valve it will not close the bypass at WOT. One plastic line comes from the back of the intake to that valve and another goes to the heater box in the car and the other goes to the little vacuum tank in front of the car. You have to tee into the vacuum that goes to the back of the manifold. If its hooked up wrong you will get no boost..
Or you can just hook the bypass up to any spot with manifold vacum..
Read the ATI directions carefully, if you hook the bypass to the wrong side of the plastic check valve it will not close the bypass at WOT. One plastic line comes from the back of the intake to that valve and another goes to the heater box in the car and the other goes to the little vacuum tank in front of the car. You have to tee into the vacuum that goes to the back of the manifold. If its hooked up wrong you will get no boost..
Or you can just hook the bypass up to any spot with manifold vacum..
Dont have to go behind the intake, the check valve is located on the heater box right by the PCM plugs. Its kind of stuck in a little slot. Here is a pic of it, I use it for the vacuum modulator but its the same place you want to hook the bypass and boost guage to. The single side of the check valve (bottom in the pic) is where you want to tee off of.. I need to clean under the hood, pardon the pollen 
Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
I thought if there was no vaccumn (no line attached), the valve would always be closed?
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you dont have to cut anything, get a 3/16 plastic tee from a parts store and about 3" of 3/16 vacuum hose. Unplug the plastic line/rubber fitting from the check valve and use the hose and T fitting to splice the extra line in. The green circle/line is the original fitting and where it was attached to on the plastic check valve. Excuse my 3l33t photoshop skillz - I'm tired and lazy 
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Verdad Gallardo If you still have the instructions from your ATI they go into pretty good detail about it..
It doesnt have to be hooked up right there, that is just an accessable place to the vacuum line. I have mine hooked to the factory tee behind the manifold where the AIR solenoid line used to plug in. All my AIR stuff is gone so the fitting was unused and you can reach it pretty easy if you have small arms..
It doesnt have to be hooked up right there, that is just an accessable place to the vacuum line. I have mine hooked to the factory tee behind the manifold where the AIR solenoid line used to plug in. All my AIR stuff is gone so the fitting was unused and you can reach it pretty easy if you have small arms..
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From: Jacksonville NC
The directions go into about a FMU (same location) This is a D1 kit.
The 3/16 plastic tee they sent does not allow the vacuum line to connect to it. Its too small. Or connect back to the Check Valve.
The 3/16 plastic tee they sent does not allow the vacuum line to connect to it. Its too small. Or connect back to the Check Valve.
The fmu is hooked to the same spot, they dont use that anymore. You may have to get a larger T and a little larger vauum hose and force the smaller line over the larger T.
You can tap it into the same place you have your guage, any manifold vacuum source will work..
You can tap it into the same place you have your guage, any manifold vacuum source will work..
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From: Germantown, MD
Remember that picture is of vacuum lines, not wires. KP looks like he's widened his source line comming off the manifold which will give you a better vacuum signal. I originally hooked mine up to the suggested check valve spot(without replacing the line like KP) and my signal was accurate but not as strong as it should have been. So, even though it's a little bit of a knuckle buster, I put my 'T' fitting on the source in the back of the intake plenum. You'll get your strongest signal back there.
You can follow the brake booster line back there with your hand. That will lead the the MAP port(my name for it). The driver side is a thick tube that only goes to the brake booster. The passenger side is the thinner vacuum source that you want to tap into. Just interupt the line leading to the check valve(pictured in KP's post) with your tee and your your vacuum line from there.
It's hard to get pictures back there to show you what i'm talking about. So you'll just have to visualize
Mike
You can follow the brake booster line back there with your hand. That will lead the the MAP port(my name for it). The driver side is a thick tube that only goes to the brake booster. The passenger side is the thinner vacuum source that you want to tap into. Just interupt the line leading to the check valve(pictured in KP's post) with your tee and your your vacuum line from there.
It's hard to get pictures back there to show you what i'm talking about. So you'll just have to visualize
Mike
I made it larger for the trans modulator, I have the boost guage/bypass hooked up on the back of the manifold on the T that originally went to the AIR control solenoid.
You can get back there with the intake on, its a pain but doable..
You can get back there with the intake on, its a pain but doable..
