TT 408 numbers
No doubt the increased studs help with sealing. However in theory superior material should be able to hold its shape with less clamping force. I cant be the only person who has though about this. There must be someone out there who has boosted the **** out of some iron heads with some results.
No doubt the increased studs help with sealing. However in theory superior material should be able to hold its shape with less clamping force. I cant be the only person who has though about this. There must be someone out there who has boosted the **** out of some iron heads with some results.
I would venture to say if you could (not saying you can) push iron heads say 10lbs further than aluminum you would absolutely pick up more power. Not to mention there are plenty of ways to keep the combustion chamber cool.
Yup plus iron on iron, have same coeff of expansion so that also help keeep things sealed.
I would run abit lower compression with iron heads to lower chamber pressure and thus lower heat.
But arent iron heads rare for these motors?
I would run abit lower compression with iron heads to lower chamber pressure and thus lower heat.
But arent iron heads rare for these motors?
This is what im thinking. Also it just so happens i have a set.
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Heat soak and slow transfer on iron is a recipe for detonation. Curious how much timing will be allowed with E85 and meth injection (if needed).
What is the thickest deck 4 bolt aluminum head available, RHS .800"?
What is the thickest deck 4 bolt aluminum head available, RHS .800"?
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Verdad Gallardo If iron heads were the answer, guys running 6's with ls motors would be running them. They are not.
Your best case scenario to make a 4 bolt head live is the following....
1. fill the block to the water holes
2. Machine for 1/2 head studs or use the arp625s. They are expensive though.
3. Look up Andreas on this forum and order his fire ring head gasket from Sweden. 250 per side. He has used them to 2000hp on a 4 bolt head.
4. Buy billet main caps and use an amazing crank. Dragonslayer or better to ensure integrity and limit flex inside of block.
5. Ditch motor mounts. Motor playe your car. Mounts pull down on sides of block and enhance head lifting at high load.
6. Don't tune it too rich. Keep it happy with E85 but don't flood the pig
7. Use cold, cold plugs. Colder than you think.
8. Keep timing in check.
9. Don't spin it too high. Match turbo efficient with rpm band of 5500 to 7500.
That's your best hope with this project.
Your best case scenario to make a 4 bolt head live is the following....
1. fill the block to the water holes
2. Machine for 1/2 head studs or use the arp625s. They are expensive though.
3. Look up Andreas on this forum and order his fire ring head gasket from Sweden. 250 per side. He has used them to 2000hp on a 4 bolt head.
4. Buy billet main caps and use an amazing crank. Dragonslayer or better to ensure integrity and limit flex inside of block.
5. Ditch motor mounts. Motor playe your car. Mounts pull down on sides of block and enhance head lifting at high load.
6. Don't tune it too rich. Keep it happy with E85 but don't flood the pig
7. Use cold, cold plugs. Colder than you think.
8. Keep timing in check.
9. Don't spin it too high. Match turbo efficient with rpm band of 5500 to 7500.
That's your best hope with this project.
If iron heads were the answer, guys running 6's with ls motors would be running them. They are not.
Your best case scenario to make a 4 bolt head live is the following....
1. fill the block to the water holes
2. Machine for 1/2 head studs or use the arp625s. They are expensive though.
3. Look up Andreas on this forum and order his fire ring head gasket from Sweden. 250 per side. He has used them to 2000hp on a 4 bolt head.
4. Buy billet main caps and use an amazing crank. Dragonslayer or better to ensure integrity and limit flex inside of block.
5. Ditch motor mounts. Motor playe your car. Mounts pull down on sides of block and enhance head lifting at high load.
6. Don't tune it too rich. Keep it happy with E85 but don't flood the pig
7. Use cold, cold plugs. Colder than you think.
8. Keep timing in check.
9. Don't spin it too high. Match turbo efficient with rpm band of 5500 to 7500.
That's your best hope with this project.
Your best case scenario to make a 4 bolt head live is the following....
1. fill the block to the water holes
2. Machine for 1/2 head studs or use the arp625s. They are expensive though.
3. Look up Andreas on this forum and order his fire ring head gasket from Sweden. 250 per side. He has used them to 2000hp on a 4 bolt head.
4. Buy billet main caps and use an amazing crank. Dragonslayer or better to ensure integrity and limit flex inside of block.
5. Ditch motor mounts. Motor playe your car. Mounts pull down on sides of block and enhance head lifting at high load.
6. Don't tune it too rich. Keep it happy with E85 but don't flood the pig
7. Use cold, cold plugs. Colder than you think.
8. Keep timing in check.
9. Don't spin it too high. Match turbo efficient with rpm band of 5500 to 7500.
That's your best hope with this project.
The fire ring idea seems like a good one also with a half filled block i imagine that would decrease street driving capabilities quite drastically?
Last edited by oscs; Apr 15, 2015 at 05:01 PM.
Now that makes a lot more sense. Also i wonder how many of those guys have tried a set. I don't really want to get into an argument about Iron heads vs. Aluminum seeing as no one has any real data to prove one opinion over the other.
The fire ring idea seems like a good one also with a half filled block i imagine that would decrease street driving capabilities quite drastically?
The fire ring idea seems like a good one also with a half filled block i imagine that would decrease street driving capabilities quite drastically?
Look at non lsx x275 turbo cars that are running bottom 4s to the 8th at 170 plus. All aluminum heads regardless of motor platform.
If your hell bent on iron heads do it and report back. My hunch is you will knock or break something because of the heat retention with a normal, traditional boosted ls tuneup.
Depends on if you half fill with aluminum heads or iron for heat dissipatation. LOL
Look at non lsx x275 turbo cars that are running bottom 4s to the 8th at 170 plus. All aluminum heads regardless of motor platform.
If your hell bent on iron heads do it and report back. My hunch is you will knock or break something because of the heat retention with a normal, traditional boosted ls tuneup.
Look at non lsx x275 turbo cars that are running bottom 4s to the 8th at 170 plus. All aluminum heads regardless of motor platform.
If your hell bent on iron heads do it and report back. My hunch is you will knock or break something because of the heat retention with a normal, traditional boosted ls tuneup.
I stopped at 850who and 16lbs on dyno with 370. I ran a tick over 20lbs at track and went 164. Guessing it was in 100who range. Hoping to get it into 170s.
I share your desire. I'm going to push to 1200who on next set up And I've done all on list except for half fill block and fire ring head gaskets.
I stopped at 850who and 16lbs on dyno with 370. I ran a tick over 20lbs at track and went 164. Guessing it was in 100who range. Hoping to get it into 170s.
I stopped at 850who and 16lbs on dyno with 370. I ran a tick over 20lbs at track and went 164. Guessing it was in 100who range. Hoping to get it into 170s.
yes and no. I think there is a certain level you can get away with. Im not sure though, Never looked into filling an LS motor