LQ4 vs LQ9 vs LY6 for Boost
LQ4 vs LQ9 vs LY6 for Boost I'm planning a turbo LS swap in my '91 foxbody Mustang. I'm on the West Coast and it seems that LS engines are more expensive than other areas of the country. I want to make a reliable 700 rwhp. I understand the earlier rods are really being pushed at 600+rwhp, so I've considered doing a newer '05+ LQ4 or LQ9. I then realized that I can get the LY6 engines complete with accessories, harness, ecu, etc for only $1250 (170k miles)
The newer LY6 have the better heads, stronger rods, and accept the newer style LS2/3 intakes. Am I correct in my thinking that a LY6 would be a great way to go for a reliable 700 rwhp? My thoughts were to do a turbo cam swap, valve spring upgrade, VVT delete, LS9 gaskets, studs, cast T6 S480, 4l80e trans with good billet converter. I plan to have a friend tune it with factory ECU and harness. Which harness will I need? Which ECU? Is the best way to go for the strongest stock bottom end? How much will my stock foxbody fuel lines support with twin 255 walbros in tank? I plan to do 80 lb injectors.
My goals are to have a more street friendly car than the current SBF set up. Overdrive, power steering, trans that shifts on its own, and run in the 9's at 5000 ft elevation. Car will weigh around 3200 with driver. Is this possible? Would it be smarter to put rods and pistons in an earlier LQ engine? Are there more tuning issues with the newer setups?
The newer LY6 have the better heads, stronger rods, and accept the newer style LS2/3 intakes. Am I correct in my thinking that a LY6 would be a great way to go for a reliable 700 rwhp? My thoughts were to do a turbo cam swap, valve spring upgrade, VVT delete, LS9 gaskets, studs, cast T6 S480, 4l80e trans with good billet converter. I plan to have a friend tune it with factory ECU and harness. Which harness will I need? Which ECU? Is the best way to go for the strongest stock bottom end? How much will my stock foxbody fuel lines support with twin 255 walbros in tank? I plan to do 80 lb injectors.
My goals are to have a more street friendly car than the current SBF set up. Overdrive, power steering, trans that shifts on its own, and run in the 9's at 5000 ft elevation. Car will weigh around 3200 with driver. Is this possible? Would it be smarter to put rods and pistons in an earlier LQ engine? Are there more tuning issues with the newer setups?
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Ohio
Strength wise there won't be much of a difference between an LQ9 and LY6.
The LY6 will be 4th gen, so you'll need an ECU that can run the 58x crank wheel, or a converter box to run it on an older 24x ECU.
I know the guys over at 417 Motorsports have had good luck with their LY6.
They pushed the stock bottom end in their Mustang with a pair of On3 turbos over 1000 whp through an automatic trans (non lockup) with a small cam.
The LY6 will be 4th gen, so you'll need an ECU that can run the 58x crank wheel, or a converter box to run it on an older 24x ECU.
I know the guys over at 417 Motorsports have had good luck with their LY6.
They pushed the stock bottom end in their Mustang with a pair of On3 turbos over 1000 whp through an automatic trans (non lockup) with a small cam.
I think by the time you remove the VVT, then deal with the electronic throttle, and the later 58x ecu, the LQ4/9 becomes the better choice.
I'd check with your tuner and see if he has experience with the later ECU as well. Find out if they update to an easily tuned 3 bar config.
Personally I think the earlier drive by cable TB and 0411 ECU just greatly simplify things.
05-06 get the better rods and there is nothing at all wrong with the 317 cathedral heads.
I'd check with your tuner and see if he has experience with the later ECU as well. Find out if they update to an easily tuned 3 bar config.
Personally I think the earlier drive by cable TB and 0411 ECU just greatly simplify things.
05-06 get the better rods and there is nothing at all wrong with the 317 cathedral heads.
I think by the time you remove the VVT, then deal with the electronic throttle, and the later 58x ecu, the LQ4/9 becomes the better choice.
I'd check with your tuner and see if he has experience with the later ECU as well. Find out if they update to an easily tuned 3 bar config.
Personally I think the earlier drive by cable TB and 0411 ECU just greatly simplify things.
05-06 get the better rods and there is nothing at all wrong with the 317 cathedral heads.
I'd check with your tuner and see if he has experience with the later ECU as well. Find out if they update to an easily tuned 3 bar config.
Personally I think the earlier drive by cable TB and 0411 ECU just greatly simplify things.
05-06 get the better rods and there is nothing at all wrong with the 317 cathedral heads.
It seems everybody wants big money for complete 05+ LQ4/LQ9. I think the LY6's are a bit cheaper because people aren't as familiar with them.
FWIW my ~04' LQ9 had the strong rods and 24x system. I paid 1300.00 for the complete motor, but sold off the manifolds, pan, ecu/harness and ran the Holley system.
I think all LQ9's got the beefier rods.
I think all LQ9's got the beefier rods.
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Verdad Gallardo If you don't have experience with any of the stock ecu tuning software be prepared for a VERY steep learning curve...RonSS will tell ya.
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From: Ohio
Megasquirt can now control the 80e. If it had been able when i started building mine, i would have went that route.
I found a great deal on an A1000, but I don't really like the external mounted fuel pump setups. I really like keeping the stock tank and fuel gauge working, what should I be looking at?
Cool, I'm in Reno too. I headed out to Fallon tomorrow night for the maiden voyage with the turbos.
Twin 255's should be ok, along with the 80 pound injectors for that power level. The stock lines won't cut it though, and the truck rail would be iffy. I run twin 320 lph in tank (I've had bad luck with walbros), -8 feed and -6 return, and 120 lbs. injectors, but I'm running E85.
Twin 255's should be ok, along with the 80 pound injectors for that power level. The stock lines won't cut it though, and the truck rail would be iffy. I run twin 320 lph in tank (I've had bad luck with walbros), -8 feed and -6 return, and 120 lbs. injectors, but I'm running E85.
Cool, I'm in Reno too. I headed out to Fallon tomorrow night for the maiden voyage with the turbos.
Twin 255's should be ok, along with the 80 pound injectors for that power level. The stock lines won't cut it though, and the truck rail would be iffy. I run twin 320 lph in tank (I've had bad luck with walbros), -8 feed and -6 return, and 120 lbs. injectors, but I'm running E85.
Twin 255's should be ok, along with the 80 pound injectors for that power level. The stock lines won't cut it though, and the truck rail would be iffy. I run twin 320 lph in tank (I've had bad luck with walbros), -8 feed and -6 return, and 120 lbs. injectors, but I'm running E85.
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If it were me Id go with the 04-06 lq4 and cam it fairly mild. I have ran 8.6/160@6000'/9800' DA with mine andna little t4 76mm. I think the big sq ly6 head will be harder to get turbo going in the high DA. The lq9 would also be a good choice if running E85 and not planning on pushing engine to the max. The lower compression lq4 will take you farther with stock rods IMO.
If it were me Id go with the 04-06 lq4 and cam it fairly mild. I have ran 8.6/160@6000'/9800' DA with mine andna little t4 76mm. I think the big sq ly6 head will be harder to get turbo going in the high DA. The lq9 would also be a good choice if running E85 and not planning on pushing engine to the max. The lower compression lq4 will take you farther with stock rods IMO.
Next question... I want to keep the stock hood. The car has tubular control arms, but stock K member.
Is it possible to keep truck accessories and intake with homemade mounts when running a shorter than stock oil pan? I have a GMPP hotrod pan.
Or would I be better off buying an aftermarket K member, and LS swap mounts? It looks like the price would be similar to having to purchase an ls1/ls6 intake, and car accessories.
Is it possible to keep truck accessories and intake with homemade mounts when running a shorter than stock oil pan? I have a GMPP hotrod pan.
Or would I be better off buying an aftermarket K member, and LS swap mounts? It looks like the price would be similar to having to purchase an ls1/ls6 intake, and car accessories.
The 320's are made by High Flow Fuel out of southern California. Cheaper than Walbros and have a lifetime warranty. I've had Walbros fail in under 2 months, and never had a problem with these. Stock tank, not sumped. Both in the stock location.