What rod to choose???
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Teching In
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5
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From: Louisiana
What rod to choose??? I have been doing a lot of reading concerning different rods for a upcoming build. It will be a 6.0, stock crank, tooley stg 2 cam, 317 heads, S475 for mostly street driving but I don't want to have any worries if I start taking it to the track. I am looking at spending up to $1500 or so on rods as long as they are made in the USA. If not I'll just settle for some k1 rods and roll with it. What are some options that have been proven from Oliver, Crower, etc that are made here?
A stock crank is your limitation above about 1000rwhp after you upgrade the rods. Eventually it will fail/crack.
Beyond that and it's the clamping force of your 4 bolt block to make more power and keep the heads down or a stock sleeve cracking.
After you upgrade the crank/rods/pistons above around 1000-1200rwhp you need to go to an aftermarket block.
If you want under 1000rwhp just run some K1/Compstar/Lunati/Eagle or similar Chinese rods. Compstar are finished better and probably the best of the bunch; however they will all get the job done at that power level.
Putting $1500 rods on a stock $100 cast crank is stupid. Think about doing a $600 factory LSA forged crank with Compstar rods.... it does require a different flywheel/flexplate bolt pattern for about the same cost.
I added a picture of my stock crank after running it at 1000rwhp-1200rwhp for a couple years and making that power in 4th and 5th gear spinning it up to 7800rpm often. I'm guessing 40-50 1/2 mile passes, 30-50 1/4 mile passes, lots of freeway runs, and just all around thrashing. 200+ passes easily. I ran Compstar rods. The 2 on that journal were gone.... but the other 6 were checked out as fine. Luckily it didn't take out the block or my heads.
Beyond that and it's the clamping force of your 4 bolt block to make more power and keep the heads down or a stock sleeve cracking.
After you upgrade the crank/rods/pistons above around 1000-1200rwhp you need to go to an aftermarket block.
If you want under 1000rwhp just run some K1/Compstar/Lunati/Eagle or similar Chinese rods. Compstar are finished better and probably the best of the bunch; however they will all get the job done at that power level.
Putting $1500 rods on a stock $100 cast crank is stupid. Think about doing a $600 factory LSA forged crank with Compstar rods.... it does require a different flywheel/flexplate bolt pattern for about the same cost.
I added a picture of my stock crank after running it at 1000rwhp-1200rwhp for a couple years and making that power in 4th and 5th gear spinning it up to 7800rpm often. I'm guessing 40-50 1/2 mile passes, 30-50 1/4 mile passes, lots of freeway runs, and just all around thrashing. 200+ passes easily. I ran Compstar rods. The 2 on that journal were gone.... but the other 6 were checked out as fine. Luckily it didn't take out the block or my heads.
Last edited by gnx7; Feb 28, 2016 at 05:27 PM.
I have pretty much the same engine/turbo setup-I ran it all last year with just a quick rebuild, but did add ARP bolts to the stock bushed rods (big end ck'ed after bolts) this year I did another rebuild, bored .030 over, decided to stay with the stock crank/rods, had it all balanced-I would have liked to change the rods, but budget, lol-i just felt these rods were better than buying something cheap I could afford
If your willing to pay $1500 for a set, hell, go a little more, rotating assemb. with forged crank, even a stoker-you know these things always get out of hand, lol
If your willing to pay $1500 for a set, hell, go a little more, rotating assemb. with forged crank, even a stoker-you know these things always get out of hand, lol
