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poor mans ERL 6 bolt solution / 1/2 head studs

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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 06:51 AM
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Default poor mans ERL 6 bolt solution / 1/2 head studs

so I'm looking at this late model gen 4 5.3 alum block

very cheap, rip out the dod, stay with the stock thick liners, and weld on the rails to the stock block for the 6 bolt heads

you would need to run heads with smaller chambers, but it seems like this could be done for much less than ERL charges for the liners to run bigger bores. maybe the heads could also be modified with the additional tabs for the head studs.

I have the AFR heads for a 3.89 bore but I'm probably going to run 3.82 bore in the 5.3 block build for a TTiX kit with the smaller 58 turbos.


also interested in benefits and costs of running 1/2 head studs

seems like this would be a good idea if the 6 bolt conversion won't work out

thanks for any thoughts!
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 07:49 AM
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Multiple threads with the same questions?
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 07:12 AM
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well the block is in common across the threads, not the questions

I understand the KISS you are preaching

I'm exploring options, not trying to break any records

like to hear more about what works and what doesn't

thanks for the feedback
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 08:56 AM
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I think a guy could weld a truss 90degrees to the head deck surface on the outside lower edge. This would add lateral strength to the deck and spread the load of the studs across the weakest points at the center of the combustion chambers.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 11:01 AM
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How much power are you trying to make?

Once you get high enough power wise, to require a ERL 6-bolt block, the block becomes only a small fraction of the cost, and shouldn't be something you're trying to cut corners on.

Look at the cost of injectors to make 1500+hp.

Look at the cost of an engine management system at that level, because a stock pcm might be able to run the motor, but it's not advisable.

Take into account fuel setup, and rods, crank, pistons... etc etc etc.

Now take into account of doing what you're saying you plan to do with the block you have, how much are you really saving?
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 11:20 AM
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This guy is running a pair of 58mm turbos. He keeps posting thinking he's going to need a 6 bolt block, 4" stroke 5.3 block, and 1/2" head studs, plus modding his gen 4 aluminum block to use top mount knock sensors.

My head hurts from the facepalms.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 11:56 AM
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looking to make 1k at the tire not rule the world I'm at 800 now but I'd like to get just a bit more on top end once the car is hooked up and pulling.

I'm only asking of the feasibility of doing this to the block

it's what ERL does right? there is wisdom in many council so I ask.

If I could afford to have ERL do it I'd just write them a check.

sorry I've offended anyone with stupid questions and your sore forehead



I have lots of time but not as much $$$ so I explore lots of different avenues.

I kinda thought that was what the forum was for???
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 12:03 PM
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Seems like a lot of effort when a stock 5.3 will handle everything a pair of 58's will dish out. If you wanted some reliability out of it throw in some pistons and rods, ARP head studs and good headgaskets and let it eat. I highly doubt you'll have any issues under 25PSI.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
How much power are you trying to make?

>>> looking for a reliable 1k at the tire

Once you get high enough power wise, to require a ERL 6-bolt block, the block becomes only a small fraction of the cost, and shouldn't be something you're trying to cut corners on.

>>> agreed, I may need to lower my goals

Look at the cost of injectors to make 1500+hp.

>>> I currently have 127 FICs that should support the power level I'm after.

Look at the cost of an engine management system at that level, because a stock pcm might be able to run the motor, but it's not advisable.

>>> I have a haltech S2000, champion down pipes. 82 a/r turbo exh housings and I'm saving up for the fuel system the haltech runs E85 so I'm looking to do flex fuel. I also have meth injection that I'd like to see if I can go direct port meth. the haltech has 8 channel EGTs to help with tuning.

Take into account fuel setup, and rods, crank, pistons... etc etc etc.

>>>> exactly!! I already have a lunati forged crank 4.0 and rods, and some wiseco forged pistons, head studs, and much of what I need to put together a short block.

I'm also looking at LS9 or LSA forged cranks as they would give me a better stroke for the little 5.3 block.

Now take into account of doing what you're saying you plan to do with the block you have, how much are you really saving?
>>> not sure I'll save anything, which is why all the dumb questions. It's how I learn and gather feasibility feedback. welding alum blocks certainly isn't cheap!! I looked at LSX blocks and ERL but honestly I think they are at a power level that is beyond where I will ever go with the C5 vette platform.

the block was pretty cheap, I got it free so I'm not really that worried about using it, it just seemed to be a better alternative to the iron block 4.8 due to handling.

the little 5.3 alum block seems to have some pretty thick liners.

Since I'm perpetually "on the fence" aka broke I look at ways to get where I want to go without dumping way more than I can afford.

but since I have some old "good new pieces" laying around, seeing if I can reasonably make use of them.

thanks very much for the insights!!!
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 12:07 PM
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You're at 800 now? On what block?
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Seems like a lot of effort when a stock 5.3 will handle everything a pair of 58's will dish out. If you wanted some reliability out of it throw in some pistons and rods, ARP head studs and good headgaskets and let it eat. I highly doubt you'll have any issues under 25PSI.
thanks! I think your are right. I'll likely not be pushing hard enough to over stress the bottom end.

I will for sure have forged rods and pistons, thinking I might stay with a stock crank as they are pretty durable and I don't rev to the moon.

like to use a ls9 or LSA crank as perhaps and insurance policy as they are affordable, but maybe also not needed.

just kicking the can at this point.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 01:16 PM
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ERL's blocks are a LOT stronger than a standard block with stock sleeves.... zero point in doing a 6 bolt or 1/2 inch studs if your gonna leave stock sleeves in the block
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 01:44 PM
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There are people pushing ls3 blocks pretty hard, I'm at 860 to the tire, with a blower, so crank is a big higher once you take into account the power required to turn the blower.

For 1000rwhp, I'm not sure you need to focus that much effort and money on the aluminum block. There are a lot of guys with iron blocks pushing 1200-1300 at the tire.

No one is telling you not to ask questions. We're trying to figure out what your goals are, what your budget is, and what constraints you have.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 04:08 PM
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You better rethink that 127# injectors on e85 at 1200+ to the tire.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 93camaro_zzz
You better rethink that 127# injectors on e85 at 1200+ to the tire.
For sure! I'm at 90% on 160's and nowhere near 1200hp.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rkreigh
looking to make 1k at the tire not rule the world
Then just do it.

You dont need 6 bolts or any fancy **** to make that happen.

If it's apart stick 1/2" studs in it, if not dont worry about it. Regular studs and LS9 gaskets will work just fine.
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 06:24 PM
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You have a TIG? go for it and report with pics, if not, why ask if you cant weld an extra thread that's not gonna hold 80ftlb because you're an inexperienced welder...
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Frans96SS
ERL's blocks are a LOT stronger than a standard block with stock sleeves.... zero point in doing a 6 bolt or 1/2 inch studs if your gonna leave stock sleeves in the block
that's the answer I was looking for. I eyed up the ERL stuff pretty good at the import vs domestic digs. it was good seeing your car run, very impressive, your latest build is smokin

the thing I was curious about was the internal webbing and aftermarket sleeves

the 5.3 block I heard was a good "core" as the starting point.

I was originally going iron block, but I don't like the extra weight and I got the suspension setup pretty well for what I have (ls6 block) I know I'm "pushing it" with the Ls6 block so I run the car at 600 at the tire and I'm happy except when I go racing.

love to go 1/2 mile or mile racing so the durability of an ERL or some super block makes sense, but it's not gonna work so I set my sights more around 800 or 900 at the tire with a bit better durability than I have now.

I haven't blown my stuff up just yet but I'm trying


guys just exploring stuff, relax

the car would have 127 lb injectors plus direct port alchy I'm very interested in seeing what this could do, even if it's at a lower HP level, I want to try tuning that type of a setup with a pro helping out to get this built and off the ground. one thing at a time.

the just do it part is where the rubber hits the road with the budget. I'm buying it all up a piece at a time as I can afford it and trying to put something together as I can afford it.

wish I could just write a bit check, not gonna happen

I have to get done what I can as I can get the extra $$$

family has been more of a priority so the projects have to take a back seat for a bit.

800 will hold me for now
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 07:32 AM
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I've been wanting to do this for about a year. My machinist buddy (Jakson on here) has been working on the billet weld on gussets or whatever you want to call them. I'm around 1100whp now on an aluminum gen 4 5.3 block and I think the sleeves can take the abuse. Running a stock ls block shootout in April then i'll weld them on.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 09:17 AM
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LS1, what heads and gaskets you currently running?
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