79 Malibu first time track (Videos)
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Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2011
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79 Malibu first time track (Videos) Finally got the Malibu out to the track this weekend. Had some issues building boost on 2 step and even tried footbrake. 1.7 60 sucked. Mid 10s on a VERY conservative 13lbs boost and 14deg timing. First pass off trailer went 10.9 and got better from there. Again 60ft sucked. May have to have converter reworked. PTC was suppose to be 3600 but tight for street. I can't get more than 3200 out of it. Was hoping it would loosen up but it hasn't. Here's a mid 10 video.
Also I just hooked boost solenoid up to Microsquirt with a switch inline. Off is wastegate. On Microsquirt will control boost. Gonna set it for 18-20lbs and see what it does. If I can get a 1.4 on 18-20lbs boost I should be looking at low 9s with aomw luck. Enjoy!!
Also I just hooked boost solenoid up to Microsquirt with a switch inline. Off is wastegate. On Microsquirt will control boost. Gonna set it for 18-20lbs and see what it does. If I can get a 1.4 on 18-20lbs boost I should be looking at low 9s with aomw luck.
Last edited by lordbu7; Nov 8, 2016 at 01:11 AM. Reason: Add video to title
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Staging Lane
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She ran good (not great), had little issues all night that I got squared away. Make a few more runs, loaded it on trailer and made it home safe. Going to Gulfport Wednesday night for more TNT. If I can't leave on boost then converters coming out.
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Staging Lane
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Pushing I was playing with my antilag. Suppose to be a 3500-3600 converter but tight so it'd be street friendly. Antilag on 3000/200 with -10 and it was hitting 2800. 3200/200 -10 I was getting 3000. Anymore than that and the car would start pushing thru light. Tried 3400/200 -10 and -15 timing and it was pushing and I've got rear discs with factory proportioning valve (so my backs grab more than front) and it was still pushing. I need to have the converter reworked. 3600 minimum. 60ft was horrible. 1.7-1.8 leaving on 2-3lbs boost. If I can leave on 10psi I should see a 1.4. I just hooked my boost solenoid up yesterday and ran it to a switch so I can set Microsquirt to 18-20lbs boost. Switch off/wastegate 13lbs. Switch on/ Microsquirt controlled.
Again this was first time getting car on track. Also had minor issues every pass. Nothing major just small BS stuff. One pass floormat got bunched under accelerator. Another my TPS was out only showing 80% throttle.
All in all the car made some good passes and made it back home. From here it'll only get better!!
Again this was first time getting car on track. Also had minor issues every pass. Nothing major just small BS stuff. One pass floormat got bunched under accelerator. Another my TPS was out only showing 80% throttle.
All in all the car made some good passes and made it back home. From here it'll only get better!!
Try not pulling timing on the two step until you're able to build boost or at it least stalls out the MAP sensor. If you try and pull timing before it stalls out the MAP, it might not be able to get up on the converter or build boost. 3000 rpms isn't that bad, you should be able to build boost.
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Your converter is tight because you have the engine detuned from where PTC expected it to be or where you told them it would be.
I wouldn't send it back until you run it with all the power in it. It'll loosen up.
I wouldn't send it back until you run it with all the power in it. It'll loosen up.
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Staging Lane
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How can I get all the power in it if it won't spool up? I told PTC I was gonna run 13lbs boost thru it 90% of the time. Don't get me wrong I like the converter. It's extremely streetable. It's just not flashing as high as I'd like. I was hoping to see 3600 off the line. I'm running an 88mm turbo. Granted my cams got a 113+6 to bring my rpm range lower to help spool up quicker but still it's pushing thru before I can get any real boost built.
You need to make some tune up changes and get your staging technique corrected. The boost will come on if everything is in order. I'm not convinced a tweaked converter is the answer you need to be seeking......yet anyway.
I have a ptc that is supposed to stall at 4K but I can only get 3500 on foot brake and 2step. 3600/200 and +5 timing. Only difference is I'm throwing mine in 2nd gear on line to build more boost and not push threw lights. I keep it in 2nd and just tap it into 1st when I'm ready to leave with 8psi on the line I cut a 1.46 60 off the footbrake. Doesn't bang or anything and I've done it probly 30 times so far. Taking timing out didn't help me build boost but adding it did. Make sure your meth if u have doesn't come on til after 60ft cause that kills torque. And ur a/f should be around 12.5-12.8 on 2step with pump gas anyway not sure on e85.
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You need to keep timing in it to give the engine enough power to start coming up on the brake (when you have one), pulling timing will cause it to be harder to come up on the brake.
You'd be surprised how much timing is in the Race car I work on to help it come up on the brake.
You'd be surprised how much timing is in the Race car I work on to help it come up on the brake.
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You need to keep timing in it to give the engine enough power to start coming up on the brake (when you have one), pulling timing will cause it to be harder to come up on the brake.
You'd be surprised how much timing is in the Race car I work on to help it come up on the brake.
You'd be surprised how much timing is in the Race car I work on to help it come up on the brake.
You want your timing to flare with the converter, then drop off. Fuel it similarly.
Don't see anything about the car having a transbrake so I assume you are foot braking it with the two step to hold it back. If that is correct you will never get to the flashpoint of the converter. If your getting 3200 on two step without a transbrake that's pretty good on a converter that was built to flash to 3600. If you want 3600 without a trans brake your gonna need a converter that flashes over 4000.
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As soon as I'd trip the stage I'd hit the button & Matt it to what ever boost I wanted & when I saw the last lighT I'd do an "&1" & let the button go.
I'd run full timing to where I could build max boost & drop it from there, no 2-step or anything like that though, just use my foot to get where I wanted for launch boost. I'd always make sure I was first in the stage beam so I would have time to get it right where I wanted it. I would imagine a Heads-up tree would probably require a little different technique perhaps.
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As soon as I'd trip the stage I'd hit the button & Matt it to what ever boost I wanted & when I saw the last light I'd do an "&1" & let the button go.
I'd run typical timing to where I could build boost & drop it from there, no 2-step or anything like that though, just use my foot to get where I wanted for launch boost. I'd always make sure I was first in the stage beam so I would have time to get it right where I want it. I would imagine a Heads-up tree would probably require a little different technique.
I had been foot-braking-it on boost for a decade or more before I ever got a trans break so I was quite familiar with getting it right with the right foot. At one point I had used the poor mans trans brake (proportioning valve by-pass on muh Buick) so it was similar to what the OP is doing.
After busting the backing plate a couple times on drum brakes you learn your lesson on how much better a real trans brake is.
Last edited by gtfoxy; Nov 23, 2016 at 07:28 PM.
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From: South Lyon, Michigan
Here's a video to show how we do it. Obviously can't see what we do in the ECU; but foot brake which triggers the foot brake boost and timing, then once it starts to build boost it starts to quickly drop timing down to the preset level. Once it goes on the transbrake it triggers the second setting and the timers and stuff we use to do other things.
I can't tell you how fast it comes up on the brake, but its not slow. We have an aggressive stator in the converter and use a pressure dump/regulator to control converter pressure to help it come up.
I can't tell you how fast it comes up on the brake, but its not slow. We have an aggressive stator in the converter and use a pressure dump/regulator to control converter pressure to help it come up.