Differences in 5.3 block castings
haha true! But at some weights you just stop counting.
Will do, I have a few blocks here I can check. Gen 3 5.3, Gen4, and an LY6. Take a flashlight next time I go to the shed.
How many 6.0's have you seen crack? Any iron 5.3's crank in such manner?
Possibly. I just don't see how much of a weak spot that is especially if you're filling it.
How many 6.0's have you seen crack? Any iron 5.3's crank in such manner?
Possibly. I just don't see how much of a weak spot that is especially if you're filling it.
Never heard of a 5.3 cracking there. It’s pretty typical on the 6.0’s when the guys bore them out to make 370’s or 408’s. Some blocks are thicker than others there too. I’m sure it would take a ton more power to do it on a factory bore 5.3… iron or alum.
Oh didn't realize they were boring them out, that's their problem for trying to be fancy. I haven't seen a stock bore 6.0 crack like that, least under 35lbs or so.
The L33 is a Gen 3 block and the same as the LM7 except aluminum and had flat tops and floating rods. It has windage between cylinders and is not as strong as the Gen 4. The LH6 and LC9 are the same block. All Gen 4 aluminum blocks are the same minus the LS4. They are the strongest aluminum GM block available.
Some guys are making huge power with 408’s too. Luck of the draw with a better castings I guess. I don’t think you’re in danger of splitting a 5.3 either way. I was just saying the alum block isn’t “weak”. So might as well drop the weight if it’s an option.
Heres a thread on YB where they talk about it a bit with some pictures. I was under the impression the L33's were Siamese as well from that thread, but I never owned one. I'm sure DBRODS has more experience there!
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...php?p=30407754
Heres a thread on YB where they talk about it a bit with some pictures. I was under the impression the L33's were Siamese as well from that thread, but I never owned one. I'm sure DBRODS has more experience there!
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...php?p=30407754
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I see yall are all on the aluminum bandwagon......and thats cool.....it can be done.
My personal opinion, for a goal of 1300 hp I think I'd probably do a filled iron stock bore size 5.3. Just my opinion.
My personal opinion, for a goal of 1300 hp I think I'd probably do a filled iron stock bore size 5.3. Just my opinion.
Originally Posted by Blown06
I see yall are all on the aluminum bandwagon......and thats cool.....it can be done.
My personal opinion, for a goal of 1300 hp I think I'd probably do a filled iron stock bore size 5.3. Just my opinion.
My personal opinion, for a goal of 1300 hp I think I'd probably do a filled iron stock bore size 5.3. Just my opinion.
I had a injury end of last year and still on lite duty so I've had a little more time to surf the forums. Up to 37psi in the truck and its taking every bit of it. Ill be in Houston next week if you want to catch up. Staying at Mariot westchase.
I can't say that I have hurt either, I just like the idea of potentially better ring seal in the iron block. But like you said, it is being done in with the aluminum motors as well, so I'll agree with you on that........there is something to be said for the 80-100 lbs off the nose of the car.
Yeah I would like to catch up. You bringing the truck for 2k? If so and you have an empty seat, I'd love to ride around with you in that beast. I'll pm you my cell.
On The Tree
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Bit of an old post but, the best blocks are the 08 plus, gen 4, aluminum, siamese walled, 5.3 blocks. Casting numbers are #12571048.
These are also preferred for dry sleeving due to the fact there is no water passages between the cylinders.
They are not easy to get by tough. (Here at least). And of course the 100 pounds diference between the iron and alum is, in itself, reason enough to choose it for a lot of guy's. Time will have them leaking down more and more as vehicles end up in scrapyards. If your serious about it, id start giving your local yards my name and phone and let em know im buyer for these!!!!
We've all learned about rare parts and muscle cars and their value eh!?! Story still goes the same way!! LOL!!!
I know im piling / stacking parts up in the shed!!
Lead.
These are also preferred for dry sleeving due to the fact there is no water passages between the cylinders.
They are not easy to get by tough. (Here at least). And of course the 100 pounds diference between the iron and alum is, in itself, reason enough to choose it for a lot of guy's. Time will have them leaking down more and more as vehicles end up in scrapyards. If your serious about it, id start giving your local yards my name and phone and let em know im buyer for these!!!!
We've all learned about rare parts and muscle cars and their value eh!?! Story still goes the same way!! LOL!!!
I know im piling / stacking parts up in the shed!!
Lead.
What are the bigger CI guys doing for aluminum blocks?
Im gearing up for a new chassis and im now concerned about weight. My current setup is a iron 6.0l that has been a champ but now i wanna loose as much weight as possible.
What are my options for a strong aluminum 6.0 block
Im gearing up for a new chassis and im now concerned about weight. My current setup is a iron 6.0l that has been a champ but now i wanna loose as much weight as possible.
What are my options for a strong aluminum 6.0 block