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Trickflow 245cc Solid roller cam?

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Old May 5, 2017 | 06:20 PM
  #21  
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I want to go with the JESEL 1.7 ratio rockers but I've been doing a little research and saw that guys with trickflow heads had an issue with the pushrod clearance with the pushrod bore? Has this issue been fixed or do I need a certain Jesel rockers to alleviate this issue?
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Old May 21, 2017 | 06:28 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Ron_Stoppable
I want to go with the JESEL 1.7 ratio rockers but I've been doing a little research and saw that guys with trickflow heads had an issue with the pushrod clearance with the pushrod bore? Has this issue been fixed or do I need a certain Jesel rockers to alleviate this issue?
I had that same issue with Jesel rockers on my TFS TEA 245 heads. Ended up going with Crower and couldn't be happier. This is after running Jesel on SBC race engines too. If you are interested in using them I can the find the part number I used.
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Old May 25, 2017 | 02:15 PM
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If I may weigh in regarding solid rollers, my experience comes from the BBC drag racing world though.
I purchased my entire valvetrain from Comp Cams (cam, lifters, springs, retainers, etc.) for a drag/street combo and that is absolutely the only route to go.
Get matched components from a single source manufacturer or source.
I was warned about using the car on the street because of how aggressive the grind was and spring pressure but I ran that Betty on the street for 5 years and never had an issue.
I backed the rockers off in the winter/fall and would set them in the spring and check them half way through the season and they never loosed up and were relatively quiet compared to other solid roller setups I've heard.
That and nothing sounds nastier than a solid roller cammed V8 for sure.
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Old May 25, 2017 | 04:27 PM
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I ended up going with CROWER shaft mounts from TEA, they make those rockers specifically for the trick flow Gen X line of heads. I think I'll be using a Morel 6177 bushed lifter with a PAC 1225 spring kit
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Old May 25, 2017 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron_Stoppable
I ended up going with CROWER shaft mounts from TEA, they make those rockers specifically for the trick flow Gen X line of heads. I think I'll be using a Morel 6177 bushed lifter with a PAC 1225 spring kit
That's the same setup I went with. Only 15 or so passes but everything is good so far.
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Old Jun 4, 2017 | 01:40 AM
  #26  
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If your head/shaft setup still uses the stock 8mm diameter bolts, I'd consider installing time-cert's, especially with more pressure on the seat.

I have a similar setup, but on Brodix BR7 heads, CamMotion LLR solid, and Crower shafts like you. Unfortunately, I had to do it after the first few hits.

Just thought I'd throw that out there.
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Old Jun 4, 2017 | 02:32 AM
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I run a relatively small solid roller on my truck motor with an Edelbrock 245cc Cathedral head that came from WCCH. Had to cut the spring pockets to accommodate a larger diameter spring. I also spent the coin on some nice Crower Hippo liftesr and a set of Crower shaft mount rockers. Also, we went with a +0.100" length valve to help the spring package out. I believe my cam is in the neighborhood of 248/258@0.050" and 0.715/0.735 lift.

On an engine dyno without the blower (ran it N/A) it peaked horsepower at 7000 rpm and peak torqued around 5600 rpm. Dyno sheet below. Hope this helps a little

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Old Jun 5, 2017 | 05:09 PM
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Yeah for the crower shafts mounts, you have to have the rocker shaft holes drilled and tapped to a larger 7/16" bolt. I'm not too sure if I have to have my spring pockets enlarged though. My cam is 258/270 @.050 .714/.714 116LSA. I'm also going with longer + .100" Valves like you mentioned above aswell
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Old Oct 20, 2017 | 12:53 PM
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300# seat and 800# plus open on a street set up is asking for trouble using std. 842" needle bearing lifters and completely unnecessary if you are really building for the 'street'. 1100# open, lol, what are we talking 10,000 RPM engines and Pro Stock level builds, who in their right mind would try to street drive something like that?

Sure, drag race only and high RPM is a totally different story. 350# on a bushed lifter with low idle time wouldn't bother me at all. BUT, you are talking a high maintenance valvetrain with top dollar parts throughout that costs thousands of dollars. To reap the bene's you had better be revving it high! Naturally, a .937 body diameter with a bigger wheel bearing would be preferred for reliability, I wouldn't even mess with a .904" body at that point.

Speedtigger makes great points, over valve springing an engine is still common, although not as common as it use to be. Spintron testing has made engine builders be much smarter and find/free up some HP too. The trick is paying for it, or working with those that have learned the secrets that want to share.

Turbo and NA HP builds - two different worlds.
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Old Oct 20, 2017 | 02:03 PM
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Cal Haywards Pinky drag week and NMCA true street car has so little pressure everytone tells him it shouldn't work. Well 192mph at 3500lbs for 4 years and 250 on the seat and it rocks.

Also Jon's SBE car that goes 8500 with our hyd cam and 155/400.
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