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Any differences will be down to the internals and operation of whatever control valve you use. IMO it is hard to beat the simplicity of a basic taper seat type manual bleed valve.
But the others can serve useful purposes too.
And NEVER connect the FPR signal line to any line that leaks. ie that of an EBC or MBC etc.
Thanks Stevie! It seems I might have had It hooked up backwards as the diagram I had doesn't show the flow path. My FPR is referenced from the same place as my boost guage with a tee. On the back of the manifold under the map sensor. Below is the diagram how I hooked it up and how I should have I think.
Thanks Stevie! It seems I might have had It hooked up backwards as the diagram I had doesn't show the flow path. My FPR is referenced from the same place as my boost guage with a tee. On the back of the manifold under the map sensor. Below is the diagram how I hooked it up and how I should have I think.
this is what I said in post #3. To op start with it full closed and barely turn it back in ( maybe an 1/8 turn at a time) until you get your desired boost. It may not take much to make a big difference. My leak down tester has a similar regulator and it will add 10 psi in less than a half a turn. So if you cranked it open by a turn that would possibly give you 20 psi plus the 8 for the spring for a total of 28psi. All regulators will be different this is why I suggested going 1/8 turn at a time. That way the worst that will happen would be boost that is barely more than your spring pressure. Then you can sneak up on it.
this is what I said in post #3. To op start with it full closed and barely turn it back in ( maybe an 1/8 turn at a time) until you get your desired boost. It may not take much to make a big difference. My leak down tester has a similar regulator and it will add 10 psi in less than a half a turn. So if you cranked it open by a turn that would possibly give you 20 psi plus the 8 for the spring for a total of 28psi. All regulators will be different this is why I suggested going 1/8 turn at a time. That way the worst that will happen would be boost that is barely more than your spring pressure. Then you can sneak up on it.
You are right, I had to read your post again. I assumed the top port on the gate went to the inlet on the regulator but it should have been the outlet. Confusion on my end, thanks again for the help. I think the regulator that I have is 5 to 75 PSI. Would that mean I add the 8 pounds from the spring and 5 from the reg? Would that be the minimum boost level? If so, I need to look at a different reg.
With the "new" arrangement, with the reg adjusted so NO air is getting to the top port, then you should roughly see the 8psi base spring pressure ( this can vary with other factors though )
the adjusting the reg to add pressure to the top chamber will increase boost.
You are right, I had to read your post again. I assumed the top port on the gate went to the inlet on the regulator but it should have been the outlet. Confusion on my end, thanks again for the help. I think the regulator that I have is 5 to 75 PSI. Would that mean I add the 8 pounds from the spring and 5 from the reg? Would that be the minimum boost level? If so, I need to look at a different reg.
yes that's exactly how it would work. 13 lbs would be the least you could get once the regulator is opened up to its smallest setting. The turbonetics boost controllers are only $100 and they start at 0 psi over spring pressure.
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