piston options for a "mild build" are forged a requirement?
OP - Forged and 8.2:1 comp required for FI motors past 5lbs boost. Tear that bastard apart and throw every forged and ARP thing you can in there and then pray it stays together.
That's what Hot Rod told me 30 years ago, what could have changed?
That's what Hot Rod told me 30 years ago, what could have changed?
I’d just use the stock parts.
I think it’s a very good idea to disassemble the engine, clean all the parts, gap the rings and put it back together putting all the parts back where they came from.
At least this way you know you didn’t start with an unknown turd that was destined to break.
I think it’s a very good idea to disassemble the engine, clean all the parts, gap the rings and put it back together putting all the parts back where they came from.
At least this way you know you didn’t start with an unknown turd that was destined to break.
So I'm a noob... still picking up parts kind of noob.
I have spent countless hours watching Sloppy and reading what to do and why. I know how to build Gen 1 SBC/BBC stuff and tune it to run and stay together. I learned by doing and plan on doing that again.
The hardest part is tuning IMO. Lots of real time/conditional values to figure out for sure but it is still driven by traditional principles.
If you have a clue about Combustion engines you can tune it, all you need to do is go slow and make small changes and read what reaction changes had. If you don't know how to fix a condition post it up and wait for the reputable folks to reply.
Fueling is key, get injectors and a pump and keep it fat while you learn, like low 11 kind of fat. Also pull way more than a ton of timing out, some of theses guys are running 14-16.
After watching sloppy and posting up a few noob questions I decided to go with springs, trunnion, and cam. I think most might say just do springs and add the others later if you are shorting the cash. Also I went with a 4.8 with a 4L80E, way too cheap not to buy this combo from a 2005 Van.
Hope this helps.
I have spent countless hours watching Sloppy and reading what to do and why. I know how to build Gen 1 SBC/BBC stuff and tune it to run and stay together. I learned by doing and plan on doing that again.
The hardest part is tuning IMO. Lots of real time/conditional values to figure out for sure but it is still driven by traditional principles.
If you have a clue about Combustion engines you can tune it, all you need to do is go slow and make small changes and read what reaction changes had. If you don't know how to fix a condition post it up and wait for the reputable folks to reply.
Fueling is key, get injectors and a pump and keep it fat while you learn, like low 11 kind of fat. Also pull way more than a ton of timing out, some of theses guys are running 14-16.
After watching sloppy and posting up a few noob questions I decided to go with springs, trunnion, and cam. I think most might say just do springs and add the others later if you are shorting the cash. Also I went with a 4.8 with a 4L80E, way too cheap not to buy this combo from a 2005 Van.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 27
Likes: 1
thanks for the info guys, while I'm new to the actual building stuff for power, I'm not new to engines, nor drivability.. also I approach everything with math, its all computable for example I don't know what the formula is for what fuel pump I would need, and injectors, but its easy enough to find so at least i know what my base requirements are, and watching a secondary O2 sensor while tuning. my approach for all of this was see what my bore is at on my tired but running lq4, if its in spec std size hypers. if not go for the forged, I want to do the tuning myself and I may possibly have access to a dyno. because I love doing drivability and screwing with computers... and honestly I really don't have much to loose, the lq4 was a freebie as a friend needed it out his yard, yanked "just because it leaked and had high miles" and yes I don't have money falling out my wazzoo, I kinda wish I did, but if I did, I wouldn't have near the understanding of "how things work" that I do now.. Time or money.. take your pick.. I have not much of either, just more one than the other, guess which one haha.. thanks again for the info guys
thanks for the info guys, while I'm new to the actual building stuff for power, I'm not new to engines, nor drivability.. also I approach everything with math, its all computable for example I don't know what the formula is for what fuel pump I would need, and injectors, but its easy enough to find so at least i know what my base requirements are, and watching a secondary O2 sensor while tuning. my approach for all of this was see what my bore is at on my tired but running lq4, if its in spec std size hypers. if not go for the forged, I want to do the tuning myself and I may possibly have access to a dyno. because I love doing drivability and screwing with computers... and honestly I really don't have much to loose, the lq4 was a freebie as a friend needed it out his yard, yanked "just because it leaked and had high miles" and yes I don't have money falling out my wazzoo, I kinda wish I did, but if I did, I wouldn't have near the understanding of "how things work" that I do now.. Time or money.. take your pick.. I have not much of either, just more one than the other, guess which one haha.. thanks again for the info guys
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 27
Likes: 1
well not being a dumbass is debatable lol... I try to shut up and listen to what folks have done. as for the 300k design, not supprised, not uncommon to see 250k+ on a perfect running motor (but on its 3rd transmission haha). honestly I don't think I've ever seen a smoking gen4 ever.. as far as getting a .005 hone from a dingle ball hone, how straight is the bore after just using the brush? I have the brush, and need some T gauges anyhow so I am more than likely going to find out... speaking of which what are the bore service specs anyways?
Engine Bob Weight + Overbalance % Hi ALL, the Ford racing program taught many of us how things were to be done.
At that time I worked for John Holman.
The engine life was IMPROVED when we Overbalanced the engine.
The average was a two percent overbalance.
The piston weight is know at the time of order with my method used as to specify that weight.
I BOUGHT a small bore hone on Amazon last year for under $100.00, no ball buster problems.
As for FATBOY's tech = INCORRECT
You WILL DAMAGE the engine pistons/valves/sparkplugs when the fuel is in the 11's AND the Spark Instant is too late. (HIGH EGT)
Use a 12.5 target with low Spark Advance as a start, you will be safer.
Lance
At that time I worked for John Holman.
The engine life was IMPROVED when we Overbalanced the engine.
The average was a two percent overbalance.
The piston weight is know at the time of order with my method used as to specify that weight.
I BOUGHT a small bore hone on Amazon last year for under $100.00, no ball buster problems.
As for FATBOY's tech = INCORRECT
You WILL DAMAGE the engine pistons/valves/sparkplugs when the fuel is in the 11's AND the Spark Instant is too late. (HIGH EGT)
Use a 12.5 target with low Spark Advance as a start, you will be safer.
Lance
