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Building an NA Stroker with Room to Upgrade to FI

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Old 02-13-2018, 10:37 PM   #1
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Default Building an NA Stroker with Room to Upgrade to FI

So I'm building a NA 6.0 stroker motor...but I would like to build it with the ability to add forced induction later if needed.

What do I need to do to avoid having to rebuild the motor for FI later on?...
Keep compression down
Forged Internals
...what else
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:42 PM   #2
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How much boost and power are we talking here?
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:50 PM   #3
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I'm hoping it will make High 500's to Low 600's FWHP NA. It's a street vehicle, so maybe 7-9 pounds of boost.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:57 PM   #4
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Well to get 600 fwhp n/a, you will need a pretty aggressive setup that may not be so boost friendly. If it were me i'd build it for boost now, and forget shooting for an aggressive n/a number. Is this a 402 or 408 that you're doing? What parts do you have for it right now?
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:37 AM   #5
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Keep the CR under 11:1 and keep the overlap to a couple degrees or less and when you're ready put a blower on it.
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:52 AM   #6
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I'm still planning cubic. I've just got a LY6 engine right now. If I had to change the cam when I go FI that would be fine.
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:46 PM   #7
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You’re approach doesn’t make sense to me. Building an NA setup and keeping the compression down is going to make the bore/stroke increase less effective. NA stuff needs compression to work well. I doubt you’ll hit your NA goals keeping the compression “down” either way.

IMO don’t bore or stroke it. Factory blocks aren’t designed for it. Increased stroke hangs the piston out of the bottom of the bore. Then they rock/wear skirts. It also increases side loading on an already weak stock block. There is very little meat in between the cylinders of a 6.0. Then most bore them out as well, which will further weakening them.

If you are going forced induction, plan for it from the start. Bore it as little as possible with a factory crank. You can easily hit your power goals that way. Limiting yourself on boost and trying to make big power NA is a great way to spend a lot of money and get very little performance. While leaving it alone and adding a ton of boost will do the same thing at a fraction of the cost. YOu can literally run a bone stock GEN4 long block 6.0 and meet your goals.

Don’t’ get me wrong NA stuff is great… but it’s an expensive way to make the power you’re looking for.
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forcefed86 View Post
You’re approach doesn’t make sense to me. Building an NA setup and keeping the compression down is going to make the bore/stroke increase less effective. NA stuff needs compression to work well. I doubt you’ll hit your NA goals keeping the compression “down” either way.

IMO don’t bore or stroke it. Factory blocks aren’t designed for it. Increased stroke hangs the piston out of the bottom of the bore. Then they rock/wear skirts. It also increases side loading on an already weak stock block. There is very little meat in between the cylinders of a 6.0. Then most bore them out as well, which will further weakening them.

If you are going forced induction, plan for it from the start. Bore it as little as possible with a factory crank. You can easily hit your power goals that way. Limiting yourself on boost and trying to make big power NA is a great way to spend a lot of money and get very little performance. While leaving it alone and adding a ton of boost will do the same thing at a fraction of the cost. YOu can literally run a bone stock GEN4 long block 6.0 and meet your goals.

Don’t’ get me wrong NA stuff is great… but it’s an expensive way to make the power you’re looking for.
Seems like I keep hearing that more and more. My plan has been similar to OP's but the more I read and think, I'm thinking it's probably better to FI first and then upgrade things for more power down the road. Stock heads and cam etc. Spend money on the short block and blower/turbo
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Old 02-14-2018, 01:47 PM   #9
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Seems like I keep hearing that more and more. My plan has been similar to OP's but the more I read and think, I'm thinking it's probably better to FI first and then upgrade things for more power down the road. Stock heads and cam etc. Spend money on the short block and blower/turbo
Finally someone gets it. Let's spend $1000 on a FAST XYZ with TB and another $1500+ on heads, and all this other crap to scrap 10-20hp here and there etc.....or just boost it and make whatever power you want without having to rev the hell out of it.
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Old 02-14-2018, 04:05 PM   #10
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Yeah, I've heard one too many guys say that spent a **** ton on an NA build and were bored quickly.

ddnspider - 11.2 and 122 with 700 HP?

Last edited by AnotherWs6; 02-21-2018 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 02-14-2018, 04:11 PM   #11
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Yeah, I've heard one two many guys say that spent a **** ton on an NA build and were bored quickly.

ddnspider - 11.2 and 122 with 700 HP?
Thats Fwhp, its more like 550rwhp and they were my first shake down runs with the car. Looking at the logs I was WOT about 1 second into the run. Ive made some changes and looking to go back shortly and improve those times. Its also at 3800lbs.
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:43 PM   #12
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Good stuff from everyone.

ForceFed you are sorta contradicting yourself saying the iron 6.0 is weak block, then say it would be fine to just leave stock and run FI.

It is crazy how much power people are putting through stock block. I guess what I'm really wanting to do is build a really strong bottom end with decent power NA (then add forced induction later).
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Old 02-15-2018, 11:06 PM   #13
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Good stuff from everyone.

ForceFed you are sorta contradicting yourself saying the iron 6.0 is weak block, then say it would be fine to just leave stock and run FI.
Not really. You aren’t replacing the weak link by running forged internals in an OEM 6.0 iron block. You reduce the block strength by over boring it. A unbored block with stock stroke is stronger and less likely to crack between the cylinders at big power. My point is you can make your power goal on a factory motor while maintaining a stronger block. Throwing big $ parts with a heavy overbore and added stroke will actually weaken block integrity and wear faster.

The factory parts are pretty well matched power limit wise. So it makes little sense to put a “good rotating assy” in a stock block IMO... If u are making enough power to break gen 4 OEM parts, you should be looking at an aftermarket block. Best crank and rods on the market aren’t going to help when the block flexes under load and/or splits the cylinder between the bores.

Last edited by Forcefed86; 02-16-2018 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 02-21-2018, 08:55 AM   #14
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After many forum read, I went with this approach for mine
Stock 2014 low mileage LY6 engine, Fitech Ultimate LS 750HP, installed ARP rod bolt, trunnion kit, new cam and spring, the rest is OEM
I will run this setup NA when car ready in May then I want to add a Vortech supercharge later on this fall or in the summer if I decide that I need more power
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