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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 01:16 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Drj8787

I did build it myself. It’s built well and will withstand my goal. Now I’m not saying in the future it will be up to the task but for now it should be fine for my power goals.
No matter how well you build it, a 7875 is enough to rip the tailshaft off your 4l60. Your only hope is poor traction. You can build one to withstand almost anything internally, but eventually the tail shaft rips off. It just happens. Sorry.
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Old Sep 26, 2018 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by gametech
No matter how well you build it, a 7875 is enough to rip the tailshaft off your 4l60. Your only hope is poor traction. You can build one to withstand almost anything internally, but eventually the tail shaft rips off. It just happens. Sorry.
not sure what your talking about because I havent seen that happen. One car I had running around made 750rwhp on nitrous and ran 9.80’s at 148mph weighing 4000lbs never broke a stock late model output shaft and then another guy had an rx7 that ran in the 9’s trapping 150+ and never broke the output shaft. The first car mentioned would pull 1.3 60ft and sometimes left on the back bumper. I even had a video of it leaving on the back bumper and letting out and slamming the car down and busting the out pan. So I haven’t seen what your taking about. This sane guy has trashed the rear planet a couple times even though I had factory 5 pinions is in. Nitrous is hard on stuff. I’m trying to remember if I ever put an upgraded output shaft in it, for some reason I’m thinking I did the cheaper 100 dollar shaft from the get go.
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Old Sep 26, 2018 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by gametech
No matter how well you build it, a 7875 is enough to rip the tailshaft off your 4l60. Your only hope is poor traction. You can build one to withstand almost anything internally, but eventually the tail shaft rips off. It just happens. Sorry.
are you taking about the tail shaft housing or the actual output shaft? I’m by no means an expert on this but the only tail shaft housing I’ve ever heard of braking was do to the torque arm still being in the stock location. As in Still bolted to the trans instead of a relocation bracket or tunnel mount.
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Old Sep 26, 2018 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Drj8787

are you taking about the tail shaft housing or the actual output shaft? I’m by no means an expert on this but the only tail shaft housing I’ve ever heard of braking was do to the torque arm still being in the stock location. As in Still bolted to the trans instead of a relocation bracket or tunnel mount.
My experience with this has been with full weight AWD trucks, so it happens at lower power levels than what would happen with cars. When the output shaft snaps the housing goes with it or the other way around. I really don't know which failure causes the other.
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Old Sep 27, 2018 | 11:23 AM
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OP give this a read for when you're ready to tune it
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-hp-track.html
Also, this if you want to keep a MAF:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...er-setups.html
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Old Sep 27, 2018 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
OP give this a read for when you're ready to tune it
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-hp-track.html
Also, this if you want to keep a MAF:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...er-setups.html
thanks will do!
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 11:49 AM
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I need some direction. I want to retain the A/C. Do to the fact that I'm trying to do a budget build I'd rather not spend the money on a turbo K member and apply that money towards fuel system Etc. If anyone has retained the A/C with the factory K member single turbo set up please post up some pictures of or if you know of a thread you could link. I'm sure do to my level of fabrication skills I can figure it out but would like some ideas to think on and brainstorm before taring into things.
Thanks
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 12:06 PM
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Do a search for Phamspeed, PTK, and TTi. They were all kits from years ago that kept the stock k and AC. They all sacrifice something though. Usually relocated alternator and fans and some have the crossover under the k member.
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Do a search for Phamspeed, PTK, and TTi. They were all kits from years ago that kept the stock k and AC. They all sacrifice something though. Usually relocated alternator and fans and some have the crossover under the k member.
Thanks, I can live with relocating the alternator, standing up the radiator, moving fans, moving the battery to the trunk. but I want to keep A/C, ABS and fuse box where they are its gonna be a street car mostly with the occasional track outing. Just want to spend the money on supporting mods to have it run good not support to make it fit lol
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by stoverz28
If you are on a budget then sell the ls1 and 4l60 then put a real trans in with a 5.3. Ls1 blocks are the weakest of all ls motors and typically do not hold up well with boost.

Should be able to sell what you've got for about the same price you could buy a good 5.3 and 4l80.
Hey now, we don't want this getting out. We want people to buy our used Ls1 for when we upgrade..... not have them buy what we are converting to instead LOL
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 5.7stroker
Hey now, we don't want this getting out. We want people to buy our used Ls1 for when we upgrade..... not have them buy what we are converting to instead LOL
Nobody buys a used LS1. Everybody knows they belonged to idiots who blew them up. Seriously, though, if you don't need hero horsepower they save a good bit of weight over the iron blocks.
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