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I had my car tuned at a shop but they would not test the antilag, said it was too dangerous. I am looking for just some safe baseline setting someone can recommend as I am new to this. I am using the microsquirt with antilag/2 step launch control wired up to the t-brake for activation. I have an LQ4, with a s475 tuned on pump and meth inj power through a th400. I will start at low RPM setting, but what settings for timing retard, tps, and do you all use spark for limiting? Do I just start with 1* timing retart and work up? Is this less heat and safer, but slower spool? Trying to grasp this. TIA
RPM should be self explanatory. Set the RPM you want to launch at.
TPS doesn't matter much either. Having it set to a trans brake makes the TPS irrelevant. Set it to like 20%
Just means that it won't activate unless the TPS is above that amount.
If you roll into it and the RPM goes over what you set it to before you get to your target TPS, it won't ever activate.
The timing retard box is the degree that it retards the timing TO, not BY. So 1 degree will no lower your timing by 1, it'll set it to 1.
I'd start with 10 to be safe, and start lowering it until you can get it to build the boost you want at the RPM you want.
I usually just jump straight to -10* for lots of bang bang and spool, but thats personal preference.
I had my car tuned at a shop but they would not test the antilag, said it was too dangerous. I am looking for just some safe baseline setting someone can recommend as I am new to this. I am using the microsquirt with antilag/2 step launch control wired up to the t-brake for activation. I have an LQ4, with a s475 tuned on pump and meth inj power through a th400. I will start at low RPM setting, but what settings for timing retard, tps, and do you all use spark for limiting? Do I just start with 1* timing retart and work up? Is this less heat and safer, but slower spool? Trying to grasp this. TIA
Too dangerous! Hmm, interesting. Either way, I'm guessing you want to use the antilag to build boost, not just shoot fire out of the downpipe. I don't run the microsquirt, but the concept is the same. First off, best to spin some RPMs while doing this (although not entirely necessary, you'll see why as you read on). The turbo doesn't build boost if it's not spinning, shaft speed is your friend. Second, there's a good chance you'll need to leave a good bit of timing in it initially to get the turbo up and going. Once it's lit (3-5 psi) that's when you'll want to pull the timing and maybe give it a little fuel. Mine is set up to pull timing at 4 psi down to 10 degrees, but I don't touch the fuel. I did a test last year with my old converter and was able to build 8 psi with the two step at only 3100 PRMs the way I just described. Each combination could be a little different in regards to cam, compression, turbo, piping, etc, but that should give you an idea of one way that works.
Too dangerous! Hmm, interesting. Either way, I'm guessing you want to use the antilag to build boost, not just shoot fire out of the downpipe. I don't run the microsquirt, but the concept is the same. First off, best to spin some RPMs while doing this (although not entirely necessary, you'll see why as you read on). The turbo doesn't build boost if it's not spinning, shaft speed is your friend. Second, there's a good chance you'll need to leave a good bit of timing in it initially to get the turbo up and going. Once it's lit (3-5 psi) that's when you'll want to pull the timing and maybe give it a little fuel. Mine is set up to pull timing at 4 psi down to 10 degrees, but I don't touch the fuel. I did a test last year with my old converter and was able to build 8 psi with the two step at only 3100 PRMs the way I just described. Each combination could be a little different in regards to cam, compression, turbo, piping, etc, but that should give you an idea of one way that works.
Thanks,I guess I will have to play around with this a bit. Sounds like the microsquirt is much more limited with this function than whatever you are using for engine management.
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