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....the intake out of the rain in the trunk under the parcel/speaker tray - works great. ...
That's the 1 thing I'm a bit bitter about. The kit came with a cold air pipe to put it up in the fender.....but doesn't fit on a 98 car 🙄 going to run the filter and sock for now to get it running and then see about modifying a pipe to get the filter up higher. Also looks like if I cut 1 of the cold side pipes I can tuck the turbo up higher which will help the ground clearance but going to finish everything and get the car on the ground and see how bad it is.
Vacuum lines done. Ordered 50ft of vacuum line.....used 49ft 🙄 the 50th (1ft of blue in the pic) will be changed once I get an adapter fitting. Holy crap the wastegate tube was screwed up lol. Even the hanger flange wasnt even close to fitting. Cut it and flipped it and lined up perfectly.
I'm fighting with 1 pipe that connects the subframe connector pipe to the u shaped over axle pipe. I can't get the coupler and clamp both on due to space between the frame/tube/lca bracket. Gave up on it for a bit.
Only things left are pump, injectors, and oiling. Not looking forward to oiling lines and stuff but after doing the vacuum lines I think I have a routing path down the passenger side. Two thoughts/issues in my head:
1. I seem to remember using a nitrous jet as an oil restrictor on past turbo kits, but can't seem to remember where or how I did it. Im guessing I just cut down the jet unless I can screw on the AN line?
2. It looks like the best option to mount the oil pump is to the heat shield under the gas tank. The shield has a space where I can drill through and completely avoid the tank itself. But not sure if it'll be sturdy enough or if it needs to be frame mounted.
Edit....fuel pump done....apparently someone bothered to drop the tank to change the pump previously which is dumb because A) who doesn't do the trap door in this day and age unless you have a mint original low miles car, and B) they replaced it with a Walbro 195LPH!!! 🤯 I only had a 255 sitting in the garage so it's in and we'll see how bad I run out of fuel lol.
Wrap is on the Y. I still have about 50ft so I'll probably do the rest of the exhaust at some point but I want to replace that cutout in the I and don't want to deal with it right now. Finally got the subframe to over axle pipe sorted.....and by sorted I mean I cut it into 2 pieces and added another coupler to get the angles right....thank you Home Depot Fernco for stocking a coupler.
Got the oil feed block onto the motor to realize I need a 4AN 90 cause the line won't clear the longtubes...thank you Amazon free overnight shipping. Getting close! Couldn't sort out the restrictor so going to run without to start and see what it does.
First start up. The chocolate milk out the downpipe is condensation mixing with oil that went past the seal of the turbo (before I had the pump working right and a restrictor). Added a restrictor and got the pump working but think I'm going to have to yank the turbo and clean it all out. Thankfully it's cake to pull that stuff on a rear mount
Also going to have to tweak the oil fittings and maybe clocking on the turbo and gain some ground clearance. But the car is lowered and I've already driven it over steep stuff and nothing rubbed.
The turbo spooled at part throttle in 1st almost immediately....haven't wrapped anything but the Y and don't have the bigger spring in it yet.
Looks good, sounds good..... NOW GET TO THE TRACK! Are those 315s on the back?
Lol it's hot as a dog right now down here. Anything at the track will blow right now. I have been looking at turbos given how cheap they are lol. Maybe go to something a bit bigger. But I'd like to fix this oiling issue first. Yes 315 M/T Comp TAs (non DR) on the back of 17x11 ZR1s.
Lol it's got as a dog right now down here. Anything at the track will blow right now. I have been looking at turbos given how cheap they are lol. Maybe go to something a bit bigger. But I'd like to fix this oiling issue first. Yes 315 M/T Comp TAs (non DR) on the back of 17x11 ZR1s.
Man, i mean....I'd at least go with a 7675, even if it's an off brand (on3 etc). That unit that's on there will make instant power, till probably 5k..... then feel like you've ran into a brick wall.
Man, i mean....I'd at least go with a 7675, even if it's an off brand (on3 etc). That unit that's on there will make instant power, till probably 5k..... then feel like you've ran into a brick wall.
That's the nice thing about doing this now, turbos are so cheap I can try stuff and see how it works. When I first started playing with turbo LS's over a decade ago, there was no such thing as a good/decent China turbo. It was all $$$$ for Precision, Garrett, or Forcedinductions.com units. The only cheap alternative was the Master Power stuff made for diesels lol. I also don't mind trading some top end for a "funner" drive. Area under the curve matters to me. If I lost 50whp or 75whp by shifting at 6500 instead of 6000 where the turbo runs out of steam, it's still quicker because the turbo lit off quicker and I have more mechanical advantage due to the better torque multiplication of the lower gear. That's the theory anyways, and why it'll be fun to try it out and see what's what. First things first, I already tore apart the turbo to check the oil seal. Have a couple ideas to easily gain more ground clearance and help get a better return setup to hopefully stop oil getting by the seal. Still not bad for doing the entire kit in my spare time since Friday lol.
General rule of thumb for rear mount stuff, if you want it to spool the same as a front mount you need to undersize the turbo by one size ie 76 down to a 70 or even a 67. Of course there are PLENTY of other factors but that seems to have held true over the years on every single one I've seen.
General rule of thumb for rear mount stuff, if you want it to spool the same as a front mount you need to undersize the turbo by one size ie 76 down to a 70 or even a 67. Of course there are PLENTY of other factors but that seems to have held true over the years on every single one I've seen.
Yeah that's what I've always seen as well, at least for street car stuff. That's why I think this GT67 with a .81 A/R will be a good fit unless I decide to want to make over 600whp. 11 psi spring coming tomorrow. Hoping to get the oiling setup sorted so I can start tuning in boost.
Talk to swaintech for some pipe coating and 86 the wrap imo. Much more durable and wont leave you itching while youre wrapping. That will keep the heat in much better and not also trap moisture and debris.
Talk to swaintech for some pipe coating and 86 the wrap imo. Much more durable and wont leave you itching while youre wrapping. That will keep the heat in much better and not also trap moisture and debris.
Thanks for the tip. I'll look into it if I want to get fancier or go for high HP. I never really had issues on my boosted stuff with the wrap and DD a twin turbo with wrapped downpipes that have been holding up fine.
I do need to modify the exhaust at some point to get rid of a cutout in the I and replace with a bullet or something to tame the exhaust a bit. Need a good recommendation on a bullet style muffler ~12 inches long, 2.5, preferably 2.75" in/out diameter.
Awesome you got it together. Some of the pieces are LOW. Wonder how fitment would be with any sort of aftermarket rear. Looks kinda tight back there.
I made 2 small adjustments by shortening 2 pipes and adding couplers and picked up a bunch of ground clearance. Also got rid of a 90* fitting for a straight 1 to pick up ground clearance on the return line. Must have picked up at least a couple inches. I wouldn't sweat it with an aftermarket rear, you would just trim in a different spot most likely.
Woot, made the changes to the oil lines and no leaks while running. Added a 90 to the feed line to tuck the turbo high, removed a 180 from the drain line, pulled the drain check valve, took apart the turbo and cleaned it and made sure to clock the turbine seal properly, and BAM all better.
Also finished up adjusting the piping with some cutting/welding and ground clearance is MUCH better. May be hard to tell but: BEFORE AFTER
Remember this car is lowered. Top of the fender is 26.75" so I'm guessing at least an inch (was done before I got the car).
Going to let it sit overnight and see if oil drains back into the turbo or leaks. If so I'll try and reinstall the check valve in the drain line. Once that's done, time to swap plugs and injectors and start tuning.
I think you may be pleasantly surprised how this setup performs.
There's a local guy around my town with a 5.0L Coyote Mustang running twin rear mounts where the mufflers usually reside and he doesn't have any issue with lag or any of that and they aren't small turbos.
06-30-2019, 06:51 AM
