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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 02:23 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Notchback5.3
All the parts I'm using are parts that nobody wanted and sold to me cheap. Now I'm using their old crap and gapping them on the street with a 6 speed. Everything about this setup should make it slow, but I take a lot of pride in it! Now I'm just trying to keep my car faster than theirs and if I can continue to beat them with their junk, I will lol.
lol that's funny and I love it! If you already have it then hell ya send it.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 02:31 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by tblentrprz
Why no intercooler? Ask yourself, how many guys running 8's without M1 and no intercooler?
I guess I never realized they were that important. I figured non-intercooled with methanol injection was just as good.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 02:58 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Notchback5.3
I guess I never realized they were that important. I figured non-intercooled with methanol injection was just as good.
Water/meth can help with detonation threshold in the cylinder, but it isn't anywhere near as effective as cooling that mass of air as a good intercooler.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 03:33 PM
  #24  
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So lets see where this puts us.

Crank: Stock

Rods: Stock

Pistons: Forged

Wrist pins: Stock

Block: Aluminum, Bore .020 to .030 to clean up cylinders (assuming everything is good and it can be used)

Heads: my decked 317's

Cam: my BTR Stage 2 Turbo cam


Turbo: my Billet 8475

Intercooler: Yes

Nitrous: No

Fuel: Ignite 114


Gameplan: To pour in as much boost as I need to run 8's.


Anything I should change?

*Speak now or forever hold your piece*


One more question:

I have been using a stock f body oil pan, should I consider something else?
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 04:04 PM
  #25  
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Stock F body pan sucks lol.
They are notorious for causing low oil pressure on a hard launch.

Just last week I was at the track with the corvette. Launching at 3000 RPM and just 2 PSI, cutting a 1.55 60 foot, the car would shut off from the oil pressure safety kicking on. Less than 30 PSI of oil pressure at 6000 RPM was killing it. Great oil pressure through 2nd and 3rd gear no matter the RPM.

Had to slow down the launch, 2800 RPM and 1 PSI, pulling 10 degrees on launch and tapering it back on over 3 seconds. Managed a 1.67 60 foot and a 10.61 @ 132 on wastegate only boost (9 PSI) in my cam-only 4.8 (which is the new IRS Dana 36 record btw). Any harder of a launch and the car would shut off. Hoping to go 9.99 with a hard launch on gate-only before I turn it up.

Which means I have to either.
1. Swap out the F body pan for something better.
2. Get a good baffle kit for it.
3. Accusump the car.

Adding
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 05:24 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
Stock F body pan sucks lol.
They are notorious for causing low oil pressure on a hard launch.

Just last week I was at the track with the corvette. Launching at 3000 RPM and just 2 PSI, cutting a 1.55 60 foot, the car would shut off from the oil pressure safety kicking on. Less than 30 PSI of oil pressure at 6000 RPM was killing it. Great oil pressure through 2nd and 3rd gear no matter the RPM.

Had to slow down the launch, 2800 RPM and 1 PSI, pulling 10 degrees on launch and tapering it back on over 3 seconds. Managed a 1.67 60 foot and a 10.61 @ 132 on wastegate only boost (9 PSI) in my cam-only 4.8 (which is the new IRS Dana 36 record btw). Any harder of a launch and the car would shut off. Hoping to go 9.99 with a hard launch on gate-only before I turn it up.

Which means I have to either.
1. Swap out the F body pan for something better.
2. Get a good baffle kit for it.
3. Accusump the car.

Adding
Good baffle and/or accusump makes lots of sense, in general in car with lots of Gs Curious of your experience, pros/cons. Sorry to hijack OP.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 07:46 PM
  #27  
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Are truck/other stock oil pans any better? Or should I just get the baffle kit?
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Old Oct 30, 2019 | 08:51 AM
  #28  
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i like the ctsv pan. i just put 2 extra quarts in on track day


a good fuel system, a well thought out and functioning PCV system and you're good to go
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Old Oct 30, 2019 | 09:00 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Notchback5.3
Are truck/other stock oil pans any better? Or should I just get the baffle kit?
We're big fans of the Improved Racing baffles. Well thought out. If you're backing away from the spray, end-gaps can be drawn back into the .021-.024 range. Also, going with a Gen. 4 rod, you're getting the bigger diameter .9433 pin. Standard material is more than enough due to the extra diameter over a .927. The SUM-326943785-7F is our .005 over piston and the SUM-326943810-7F is the .020. How the part numbers work is 326 is for the 1.326 compression height, 943 is the pin diameter, 785 is the bore size, 7 is the volume, F is for floating. If it were the Press fit version, there would be a P at the end.

Just so people know, the Press fit .945 pin versions have Spiralocks and Grooves for folks that need to hone the small end to get them to clean up.
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Old Oct 30, 2019 | 09:15 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Summitracing
We're big fans of the Improved Racing baffles. Well thought out. If you're backing away from the spray, end-gaps can be drawn back into the .021-.024 range. Also, going with a Gen. 4 rod, you're getting the bigger diameter .9433 pin. Standard material is more than enough due to the extra diameter over a .927. The SUM-326943785-7F is our .005 over piston and the SUM-326943810-7F is the .020. How the part numbers work is 326 is for the 1.326 compression height, 943 is the pin diameter, 785 is the bore size, 7 is the volume, F is for floating. If it were the Press fit version, there would be a P at the end.

Just so people know, the Press fit .945 pin versions have Spiralocks and Grooves for folks that need to hone the small end to get them to clean up.
I agree with all of this. I'm going to try the IR baffle in my F-body pan before I give up hope on it. Even then, I can use the pan/baffle in another project and swap in a C5 pan and accusump into the car.

I've seen the summit pistons. Very nice pieces. I'm still constantly weighing the decision to either go ahead and do a half-fill on the L33 block with summit rods/pistons or run it as-is with gen 4 stuff. My power goals keep bouncing around, but they're all above 4 digits since I'm knocking on that now with stock gen 3 stuff.
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Old Oct 30, 2019 | 01:29 PM
  #31  
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I run the improved racing baffle. Still saw a little drop on the launch. I don't log it, but def dropped 10-20psi w 6.5 qts and picks back up. I run 2qts overfull and it's fine. Also FWIW I believe Zbrown ran the Fbody pan forever without the baffle and 8qts. ( Back then I believe it was a mid 8 sec car with low 8 sec MPH ) Most don't overfill enough. The oil level drops a TON with the engine running. You can literally run 8qts in a stock Fbody pan if your turbo drain is high enough. I've heard horror stories about windage and this robbing tons of power. In practice it made no difference.

Try 8qts if your drains are high enough joe... I disconnected my drain and filled the engine till it started to overflow. (while running) Happened around 8.5 qts I believe....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-too-much.html
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Old Oct 30, 2019 | 07:38 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I run the improved racing baffle. Still saw a little drop on the launch. I don't log it, but def dropped 10-20psi w 6.5 qts and picks back up. I run 2qts overfull and it's fine. Also FWIW I believe Zbrown ran the Fbody pan forever without the baffle and 8qts. ( Back then I believe it was a mid 8 sec car with low 8 sec MPH ) Most don't overfill enough. The oil level drops a TON with the engine running. You can literally run 8qts in a stock Fbody pan if your turbo drain is high enough. I've heard horror stories about windage and this robbing tons of power. In practice it made no difference.

Try 8qts if your drains are high enough joe... I disconnected my drain and filled the engine till it started to overflow. (while running) Happened around 8.5 qts I believe....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-too-much.html

I'm running 6.5 - 7 quarts. Will another another quart or two next time out. It didnt lose oil pressure on the hit, but I'll instead at the top of first every time.
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 07:46 AM
  #33  
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He also ran some roll pins in the push rods to help limit oil flow to the top end. Factory LS stuff tends to over oil the valve train, pump too much out of the pan for drag applications with central sumps.

I always thought an oil accumulator might be the best answer. They add oil capacity to the system and would prevent any momentary starvation on the launch. Cheaper and easier to mess with than installing an aftermarket pan as well. Always meant to do it... haven't had the time. I run the DOD pump on my 4.8. DOD spring with 2 links cut. Holds 55+ hot at idle with 30wt oil. 75-80 WOT.

Last edited by Forcefed86; Oct 31, 2019 at 07:54 AM.
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 11:50 AM
  #34  
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I've had great luck with an Accusump, and they aren't terribly priced. I may pick one up just in case because the car goes fast in more than straight lines.
Other than that, the IR baffle and 7.5 quarts should be more than enough for a good launch with an F-body pan.
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 04:56 PM
  #35  
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CTS-V pan 7qts 1.17 60’ no oil pressure drop
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 08:45 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
I've never understood the "I want to run as little boost as possible" ideology. You aren't doing yourself any favors. Keep it simple, pour on the boost.
Make sure that you have a good fuel pressure regulator with a boost reference and that you are able to keep intercooler piping sealed up.

A higher static compression ratio will put more stress on the engine than a higher peak boost will in most circumstances,
and you're spending extra money and going through extra precautions to do it with almost no benefits over more peak boost.
"Keep it simple, pour on the boost"
Boy if these arent words to live by.......
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