Looking To Build A Forged 347 On A Budget
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Looking To Build A Forged 347 On A Budget I'm kicking around an engine build for my Dragzine project car since the stock LS1 seems to be terminally ill after some exploratory surgery.
The project idea is to do a budget based 347 with some forged parts that will run on E-85 with a "goal" of at least 700 horsepower. After doing some research it looks like there have been similar combos build using a stock crank. I want to go with a D1 from ProCharger and stick some good pistons and rods in the block.
In the spirit of keeping this as a budget build should I stick with my stock LS1 heads and LS6 intake? It will need a new boost-friendly cam since the current nitrous cam won't work.
Any advice from those who have gone down the budget 347 route before?
The project idea is to do a budget based 347 with some forged parts that will run on E-85 with a "goal" of at least 700 horsepower. After doing some research it looks like there have been similar combos build using a stock crank. I want to go with a D1 from ProCharger and stick some good pistons and rods in the block.
In the spirit of keeping this as a budget build should I stick with my stock LS1 heads and LS6 intake? It will need a new boost-friendly cam since the current nitrous cam won't work.
Any advice from those who have gone down the budget 347 route before?
Stock crank, compstar rods, wiseco pistons, all arp hardware, stock ls6 block here. Ported 243s with LS6 intake. Car see’s 20 psi from a YSi and loves it.
Last edited by 69gto96z; Jan 14, 2020 at 10:27 AM.
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That's kind of the route I want to go. The goal of this build for the magazine is to show people you can actually build a pretty nasty combo on a reasonable budget.
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Shoot, thats plenty to build it. Look at the @Summitracing forged pistons and rods combo. ARP head studs, MLS gaskets. Stage 1/2 cam, stock heads and LS6 intake. Pulley down and go.
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Our Summit Pro LS pistons and rods are up to the task. The pistons are modern 2618 forgings designed for boost and nitrous. They have thick ring lands for durability. The rods are top-notch 4340 H-beams precision-honed in the USA to +/- .0001". The rods come out of the box with ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts with 200,000 psi tensile strength. Those are typically an upgrade option for other rod manufacturers. Our piston and rod kits come with a premium ring pack. They include steel top rings designed for boost and nitrous. They include Napier-hook second rings for maximum strength and oil control.
We would go with dished pistons for boost. We have a .005" over 7cc dished piston kit part number SUM-PR36L9037. These would put you around 9.5:1. This combo is good for 1000 whp out of the box.
You could also take a look at our Pro LS camshafts. We would look at the stage 1 or 2 in the automotive cams.
We would go with dished pistons for boost. We have a .005" over 7cc dished piston kit part number SUM-PR36L9037. These would put you around 9.5:1. This combo is good for 1000 whp out of the box.
You could also take a look at our Pro LS camshafts. We would look at the stage 1 or 2 in the automotive cams.
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My engine is almost done being assembled. Stock block 5.3L, stock crank, Callies Compstar rods, Wiseco pistons, upgraded wrist pins, 1/2" head studs, ARP main bolts. Pretty sure the parts came in well under $4000
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Our Summit Pro LS pistons and rods are up to the task. The pistons are modern 2618 forgings designed for boost and nitrous. They have thick ring lands for durability. The rods are top-notch 4340 H-beams precision-honed in the USA to +/- .0001". The rods come out of the box with ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts with 200,000 psi tensile strength. Those are typically an upgrade option for other rod manufacturers. Our piston and rod kits come with a premium ring pack. They include steel top rings designed for boost and nitrous. They include Napier-hook second rings for maximum strength and oil control.
We would go with dished pistons for boost. We have a .005" over 7cc dished piston kit part number SUM-PR36L9037. These would put you around 9.5:1. This combo is good for 1000 whp out of the box.
You could also take a look at our Pro LS camshafts. We would look at the stage 1 or 2 in the automotive cams.
We would go with dished pistons for boost. We have a .005" over 7cc dished piston kit part number SUM-PR36L9037. These would put you around 9.5:1. This combo is good for 1000 whp out of the box.
You could also take a look at our Pro LS camshafts. We would look at the stage 1 or 2 in the automotive cams.
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Are forged pistons and rods mandatory to put big boost ~20+ through a LS1?
Im currently ~12lbs with mine SBE but considering more.
Seems the ring lands are the limiting factor. Not sure what the gen 3 rods are good for.
Im currently ~12lbs with mine SBE but considering more.
Seems the ring lands are the limiting factor. Not sure what the gen 3 rods are good for.
Theres other people posting 5.3s in here and you can build an iron block 5.7 from a bored 5.3 too. Boost is irrelevent without knowing what size turbo. 20 psi from a 60-1 is not the same as 20 psi fr a T88. Yes you'll need forged pistons and rods and even then I wouldn't suggest running that much boost on an alum 5.7 with pump gas only and twin T70s.
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Theres other people posting 5.3s in here and you can build an iron block 5.7 from a bored 5.3 too. Boost is irrelevent without knowing what size turbo. 20 psi from a 60-1 is not the same as 20 psi fr a T88. Yes you'll need forged pistons and rods and even then I wouldn't suggest running that much boost on an alum 5.7 with pump gas only and twin T70s.
Do we understand the limits?
All depends how long you want it to last. Plenty of hero pulls out there. Iron blocks are stronger no question. Gen 4 rods are beefier than gen 3 stuff, but ls1 pistons are just weak in stock form. Typically they lift a ring land and the rings butt. Most suggest staying south of 600whp for stock pistons. Even forged people get nervous over 800-900whp or so on a 5.7.