coolant pressure
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...niversal-2-qt/
I have the front and rear steam port lines each
configured in a tee then a single hose from each routed to the top of tank along with a pressure switch in the top with the bottom port going to the bottom of the radiator. You would need to run a sealed cap on the radiator or cut off the fill neck and weld a plate over it and run your pressure cap on the tank. There are threads about this you just need to do some searching. One of them is from the early 2000’s by a cooling system engineer that was a member.
The surge tank level needs to be 1/2 to 2/3 full and that level needs to be higher than the top of the radiator. Living in Arizona I wanted to have the most efficient cooling system possible and this is what I put together after hours of research. Tank needs to be at least two quarts as based by percentage of a typical f body system capacity. The bottom hose can be 5/8 or bigger and would need a bung welded in the radiator to be connected.
The steam port hoses need to run up hill and not have any drops in the run. There are many tidbits of information out there you just have to spend some time to put them all together. Have other ways worked ? of course, most live in climates that will not place the demand on a cooling system as they would here in the Arizona summer sitting in traffic.
Here is a datalog so you see it coolant pressure is in red, now this is going down the highway.
I would have never noticed this unless I would have been logging coolant pressure with my ecu. I am doing another project for a daily driver and it will be definitely setup as a surge tank.
So at some point this summer I will be installing a surge tank. So what do you guys think about putting the surge tank just in one of the heater ports on the water pump.
Temp would go up and down with heater off. I installed a 4 way mixer valve off a newer suburban that loops the heater hoses when heat is off instead of blocking flow like original. Problem went away . Your temps will be more stable with flow to the back of the thermostat.
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The only time it would ever reach cap pressure....is if there is a problem and it has blown water out. Under normal use, it should never see cap pressure.
but if you have the sensor installed in a sensible location, and pressure is actually dropping to zero, clearly you have a leak somewhere.
Photobuckets being a POS so I don't know if this will work.
But if you are referencing true system pressure and it is not being exposed to the charge pressure.. . This is what a normal looks like









