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I have a 99 ls1 block with only the stock crank. I'm getting ready to take it to the machine shop and start buying accessories. Just want to buy the right ones.. But the real question is should I go 383 stroker for a e36? I'm looking everywhere online and I've seen good deals at cnc motorsports for the whole bottom end for about $2,300. Those come with a stroker cranks though. I'm looking at my pistons and rods and cam with bearings for about 1700 delivered. I might be exaggerating.. I have a set of 241 heads but I'm thinking of just selling them and getting some 243s or 799s.. What cam should i get if I want her to be a sleeper/ drifter? What pistons would I need if I decide to add a turbo later? I'm just trying to get her going before I add more. I actually need all the knowledge i can get.
Last edited by Angels512; Aug 13, 2020 at 07:03 PM.
If you are already thinking about boost, use the crank and heads you have. Stick some forged con-rods and forged pistons in there with a ~10.5:1 static compression ratio, and a mild cam.
Spend your money on a good valvetrain/lifters/pushrods/dual valve springs/etc.
Then throw a small, single turbo at it and send it.
If you are already thinking about boost, use the crank and heads you have. Stick some forged con-rods and forged pistons in there with a ~10.5:1 static compression ratio, and a mild cam.
Spend your money on a good valvetrain/lifters/pushrods/dual valve springs/etc.
Then throw a small, single turbo at it and send it.
Who makes the best set of pistons, springs, lifters, pushrod, and forged con rods
I like the JE Asymmetrical pistons. You can find them in the 3.898" bore, set up for ~10.5 compression.
You could probably get away with a set of Gen IV con-rods, honestly. But any forged will do. K1, Callies, Eagle, it doesn't really matter... more than likely, your block will grenade before you break a con-rod.
Manton dual-taper, thick wall pushrods. Probably overkill, but the valvetrain is not the area to skimp on.
I like the JE Asymmetrical pistons. You can find them in the 3.898" bore, set up for ~10.5 compression.
You could probably get away with a set of Gen IV con-rods, honestly. But any forged will do. K1, Callies, Eagle, it doesn't really matter... more than likely, your block will grenade before you break a con-rod.
Manton dual-taper, thick wall pushrods. Probably overkill, but the valvetrain is not the area to skimp on.
LS1 blocks have a tendency to split the sleeves after ~700rwhp unless things are really dialed in.
There are exceptions both sides of that 700hp number, but it's pretty much on borrowed time anything over that.
It's hard to say if you need to worry about putting ductile iron sleeves in, or not. Only your goals and budget can make that call.
I always assume that LS1 builds start with this limitation in mind, and that ~699rwhp is always the goal. Lol. So my answer is usually the same... stock heads/intake/crank, forged slugs, Gen IV or forged con-rods, a mild cam, and a small single turbo or centri-blower... send it.
LS1 blocks do not split a sleeve at 700hp. Any examples of that are exceptions or due to other damage. The weak link in a stock bottom end is the pistons. They'll lift a ringland. Next in line is the rods. The blocks and the crank will do a 1000hp if the tune is good.
LS1 blocks do not split a sleeve at 700hp. Any examples of that are exceptions or due to other damage. The weak link in a stock bottom end is the pistons. They'll lift a ringland. Next in line is the rods. The blocks and the crank will do a 1000hp if the tune is good.
I'm getting forged pistons and forged rods I'm thinking H beam. My mechanic said he can bore it but I'm not sure if boring more than 30 over is reccomended? He told me he would normally go 30 over. How much should I go? What's the differences
I'm getting forged pistons and forged rods I'm thinking H beam. My mechanic said he can bore it but I'm not sure if boring more than 30 over is reccomended? He told me he would normally go 30 over. How much should I go? What's the differences
You can't bore an LS1 block more than 10 over unless you're going to resleeve it.
You can't bore an LS1 block more than 10 over unless you're going to resleeve it.
I dont plan to sleeve it. I want to bore it 5 over. What would that do to my engine? What difference would it make compared to a stock bore size or should I go a little bigger bore size?
I dont plan to sleeve it. I want to bore it 5 over. What would that do to my engine? What difference would it make compared to a stock bore size or should I go a little bigger bore size?
If you have ANY thoughts of boost down the road leave the bores as small as possible so there is as much meat between the cylinders as possible. Since it's a drift build and you'll likely be on the limiter, run a decent piston and rod, even the Summit Racing pro series is good and cost effective, and put your money in the ECU and valvetrain. Get a baffled sump for the oil pan.
If you have ANY thoughts of boost down the road leave the bores as small as possible so there is as much meat between the cylinders as possible. Since it's a drift build and you'll likely be on the limiter, run a decent piston and rod, even the Summit Racing pro series is good and cost effective, and put your money in the ECU and valvetrain. Get a baffled sump for the oil pan.
Sounds good I'll get him to only bore over 30 like he said he'll do. Which pistons and rods style would you reccomend. I heard the dishes pistons are naturally better than the flat top pistons. What cam do you think I should run?
Sounds good I'll get him to only bore over 30 like he said he'll do. Which pistons and rods style would you reccomend. I heard the dishes pistons are naturally better than the flat top pistons. What cam do you think I should run?
Maybe I wasnt clear. You CANT bore an LS1 more than 10 over. The liners are too thin. You would have to sleeve if you're going to do that.
Our Pro LS pistons and rods are up to the task. We have piston and rod combos and we'd go with the 7cc dish combos for this build. Included in the link is an option for the stock bore and .005" over. Our piston and rod kits come with a premium ring pack. We're comfortable with these kits seeing 1,000 whp out of the box, so they're plenty good for your goals.
As far as a cam we think our Ghost cam would be a great fit for this combo and goals. Specs on it are .600/.575, 222/233, 115+3 with -3* overlap. It's going to have a stealthy smooth idle with the idle speed turned up. It'll work well no matter if your N/A or boosted. All of our Pro LS cams are offered in combos. Click the related kit/combos tab within the overview for a cam to see its available combos.
Our Pro LS pistons and rods are up to the task. We have piston and rod combos and we'd go with the 7cc dish combos for this build. Included in the link is an option for the stock bore and .005" over. Our piston and rod kits come with a premium ring pack. We're comfortable with these kits seeing 1,000 whp out of the box, so they're plenty good for your goals.
As far as a cam we think our Ghost cam would be a great fit for this combo and goals. Specs on it are .600/.575, 222/233, 115+3 with -3* overlap. It's going to have a stealthy smooth idle with the idle speed turned up. It'll work well no matter if your N/A or boosted. All of our Pro LS cams are offered in combos. Click the related kit/combos tab within the overview for a cam to see its available combos.
I love it! What about my heads should I go with some 243 heads and dual springs? Thank you so much for the input I really think I like that build plan and ima stick to these numbers. What else should upgrade fuel pump? Alternator? I really want to keep my air conditioning so I can still daily drive it.
No problem Angels512. You could stick with the stock 241's but if the budget permits the 243 heads would be a plus. With the planned use of drifting and the sustained rpm that comes with it dual springs would be recommended. Duals are offered in some of the combos we linked above for the Ghost cam.
The fuel system will need to be upgraded. We'd go with a Walbro 450 LPH pump and 60 lb. injectors. Some modifications may be necessary to fit the pump in your stock assembly. While you're replacing the fuel pump it would be a good idea to go ahead and get a hotwire kit for it. We offer this kit from DeatschWerks.
No problem Angels512. You could stick with the stock 241's but if the budget permits the 243 heads would be a plus. With the planned use of drifting and the sustained rpm that comes with it dual springs would be recommended. Duals are offered in some of the combos we linked above for the Ghost cam.
The fuel system will need to be upgraded. We'd go with a Walbro 450 LPH pump and 60 lb. injectors. Some modifications may be necessary to fit the pump in your stock assembly. While you're replacing the fuel pump it would be a good idea to go ahead and get a hotwire kit for it. We offer this kit from DeatschWerks.
Nice! Is there anything else you think I should put on there? Push rods? Lifters? trunions? Is there anything I'm leaving out other than suspension which comes later I'm just trying to get the engine right. Transmission? Driveshaft?
Pushrods are going to be needed. We typically find that 7.400" or 7.425" pushrods work with the Ghost cam. Things vary, so we recommend measuring pushrod length before purchasing pushrods. To check pushrod length we offer the Trick Flow TFS-9501pushrod length checker. We'd recommend a minimum of a 5/16" diameter .080" wall pushrod. You can usually find them for around $100.00. From there you can get into thicker wall or larger diameter options. We offer our HDR 11/32" .120" wall pushrods. They have 25% less stress and 28% less deflection than a typical 5/16" x .080" wall Chromoly pushrod. These will fit stock heads, lifters, and rockers.
For lifters, we offer our SUM-HT214-16 LS7 spec lifters. We're comfortable with these to 420 lbs. open spring pressure and 7,000 rpm. We like seeing the pre-load on these set between .060-.080". If you're looking for aftermarket we'd recommend looking into Morel or Johnson lifters. We don't carry them but both are popular with the community. Something to remember is not all lifters are the same and pre-load specs vary. This will affect pushrod length.
It's not a bad idea to look into a trunnion upgrade. This is especially true when going to duals with the added spring pressure. We know some folks prefer bushings and some needle bearings. For this reason, we offer both options within our own brand. We offer a trunnion bearing install/removal tool to make the job easier no matter what type you go with.
A while you're in there part to look at would be the timing chain. We offer the SME-143012 LS2 timing chain. The LS2 chain is thicker and more robust than the factory LS1 chain but it's a direct swap.
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