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Depends on the abs sensor. I don't know if the 2010 vette had hall effect or vr sensors. You would have to find out. My 2012 camaro abs sensors didn't work so I had to set up a tone wheel and vr sensor for the front wheels. Luckily I had already swapped to a 4l80 with an external vss or I would have had to do the same to the rear also.
This is where I am confused on the awd question. Why does the race tcs need front wheel speed on a rwd car? Where the front wheels will never slip If it compares output shaft speed to rear wheel speed? I know I am missing something simple......
It compares front wheel speed to rear wheel speed. When they don't match with in a certain amount it pulls power back. Wouldn't matter if it's rear wheel, front wheel or AWD. When a car loses traction even AWD its usually either the front or the rear. Even if you where spinning all 4 tires they won't be with in the same speed due to AWD splitting power usually 60/40 so it will see a difference and cut power but usually only one axle spins front or back first and it would cut power and stop the spinning.
Very cool. I have a 2010 Corvette with ABS. The trans was swapped for a 4l65E. Would the RaceTCS work on the combination?
Hi Steve,
I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work. I haven't personally used it on a newer vehicle but it's a stand alone control unit which simply interrupts the injector ground path when dropping a cylinder is desired to reduce power. They have been used on a variety of Japanese and European vehicle too, so it should work on everything but direct injection.
It compares front wheel speed to rear wheel speed. When they don't match with in a certain amount it pulls power back. Wouldn't matter if it's rear wheel, front wheel or AWD. When a car loses traction even AWD its usually either the front or the rear. Even if you where spinning all 4 tires they won't be with in the same speed due to AWD splitting power usually 60/40 so it will see a difference and cut power but usually only one axle spins front or back first and it would cut power and stop the spinning.
Not like I don't believe you, but emailed Racetcs anyways. Got a quick reply.
Hello
I received email from the shop about technical question.
RaceTCS was tested only with haldex or viscous 4wd cars. It has not been used with a true AWD with central differential. If this will work correctly depends on how the car reacts. If it loses traction on front or rear (depending on conditions), then a firmware update would be required to be able to handle such a scenario. If you have 3 proper locking differentials (like torsens), then the car can easily spin all 4 tires. This situation is something that RaceTCS cannot handle correctly. With one open diff (front or back) this should be easier, as at least one tire should still have traction and the slowest turning wheel could be used as a reference.
So I think it should work? NP149 viscous coupled to a limited slip rear and open front.....
Well that seems about right since the only experience I have with this on a awd vehicle is a gmc syclone. This was also with a racelogic unit. I haven't tried this new unit yet even though they seem like they are about the same. We didn't have to do a firm wear update but again different company so maybe it just came already loaded with it.
Bringing this thread back from the dead a little but i do have a question. I have a 2005 Silverado with the L33 5.3L its already a 4 wheel drive z71 but it has the autotrac transfcase so im wondering could i hook up to both the front and rear speed sensors located on the transfer case for the reference also what is the easiest way you found to wire into the ECM to get the system to function correctly im assuming this would work just looking for your opinion?
I'd suggest trying to use more sensors rather than fewer. I tapped into my transmission output sensor because both of my vehicles don't have rear wheel speed sensors. In other words, a 4 channel system is better than a 3 which is better than a 2.
An example is that my front differential is open, so one tire will always maintain traction. With it setup as a 3 channel (which mine is) I have traction control in 4WD because I configured the box to reference the slowest non-driven wheel. Since one front tire is always planted, the other 3 now have something to reference and slip can easily be detected. Works well in icy or snowy conditions. If it were setup as you describe with just a front and rear signal, it wouldn't be able to detect slip in 4WD.
As for wiring into the ECM, both of mine were converted harnesses so they were pretty easy to integrate because I just routed everything where I wanted it. You'll have to break open the harness and find each individual injector ground wire. Each of these will be cut, connected to the RaceTCS input and the other to the output. It wants an RPM as well. It's not overly complex and I suspect it's easiest on your Silverado to do this at the main clump of wires near the ECM rather than at the injectors. There are wiring diagrams online which will help you figure out which color wire is injector 1, injector 2 and so on.
I will also add that there is much more tunability to this thing than I originally thought. For anyone using this on a high horsepower application (turbocharged, supercharged, etc.) I'd recommend widening the minimum slip and maximum slip percentage. I have a 30 to 40 percent difference between the minimum and max figures which has helped smooth things out considerably.
Thanks for the info So what your saying is one side of the harness from the ECM would be the inputs and the other side of the harness to the injectors would be plugged into the outputs? Also in my case im only looking for it to operate in 2wd so i believe my setup would work well for this. My other questions is those two speed sensors front and rear on the transfer case would be the same type of sensors which would have been on your 4L80E so those would be passive sensors correct? And then its just hooking up power and ground to the unit along with power to the control **** and diode? Also looks like there was a software update which came out for the unit which i would update on the computer before i install it.
Thanks for the info So what your saying is one side of the harness from the ECM would be the inputs and the other side of the harness to the injectors would be plugged into the outputs? Also in my case im only looking for it to operate in 2wd so i believe my setup would work well for this. My other questions is those two speed sensors front and rear on the transfer case would be the same type of sensors which would have been on your 4L80E so those would be passive sensors correct? And then its just hooking up power and ground to the unit along with power to the control **** and diode? Also looks like there was a software update which came out for the unit which i would update on the computer before i install it.
Thanks again.
Yes, the ECM injector #1 wire goes into the injector #1 input on the RaceTCS. Then the RaceTCS output for injector #1 simply goes to injector #1 (same goes for the other 7 remaining injectors). It just stands between the factory ECM and the injectors so it can interrupt the signal when power reduction is needed. You are also correct that the 4l80e speed sensor is passive and what you have on your transfer case likely is passive as well.
As for wiring up the rest of the box there isn't much to it - just power, ground, the LED and ****. I haven't checked for updates in a while but they do seem to keep adding functionality as time goes on so perhaps I'll check in to see what the latest software offers.
Installed one of these on the car and have been dialing it in. They work great and a do a great job controlling wheel spin. Dials the car traction in better than a lot of the standalone ECUs I used to deal with for traction control. Controller intercepts the injector signal and has a decent interface for getting the control rate (PID loop) to dial in wheel spin with some precision. I am running about 10% slip when this kicks in and does a great job dialing in to maximum traction. Also, does it by skipping injector cycle which in my experience works better and is easier on the engine than deep timing cuts.
If you have a high HP street car and miss using gears 1, 2, 3 - one of these works really well. Highly recommended.
Graph of the unit controlling wheel spin. Two blue lines represent tire speed (front and back) wheels. You can see the unit modulating wheel spin hundreds of times a second on the below run. Works really well on a 900 HP car.
I'm glad there is another company that came out with something when the Racelogic TC was cancelled, it worked great on my car for the most part and any small issues I had were a direct result of using some makeshift sensors picking up off the back of my aftermarket brakes/spindles. If I still had OEM sensors on there or some good aftermarket active sensors with a reluctor ring it would have been flawless.
The one thing I absolutely despise looking at the new box though is the connector/wiring, those things are terrible. They should have done standard Deutsch connectors for a much better much more secure connection, especially since it's interrupting injectors.
The one thing I absolutely despise looking at the new box though is the connector/wiring, those things are terrible. They should have done standard Deutsch connectors for a much better much more secure connection, especially since it's interrupting injectors.
The new Version 3 of the RaceTCS actually has the nice wiring plug. Picture below. This is the old V2 unit; I didn't want/need the extra spark functionality of the V3 - but it looks like a nicer unit.
Full disclosure, the screw terminals were something I added. Not RaceTCS's fault. I prefer the screw type when landing wire. I put in an AC Delco plug at the injector take-off point so that I could bypass the box if there is ever a problem.
The new Version 3 of the RaceTCS actually has the nice wiring plug. Picture below. This is the old V2 unit; I didn't want/need the extra spark functionality of the V3 - but it looks like a nicer unit.
Full disclosure, the screw terminals were something I added. Not RaceTCS's fault. I prefer the screw type when landing wire. I put in an AC Delco plug at the injector take-off point so that I could bypass the box if there is ever a problem.
Ahh ok, I've just had really bad luck with the screw terminal connectors like that with vibration, etc. When I had my old Racelogic box I used some Deutsch connectors for the interface between the box and the PCM so I could disconnect and hook it back up like OEM in 5 seconds if I ever had a problem. Had the box on the car for years before selling the car and selling the Racelogic box separately because it was worth 2x what I paid for it when it was discontinued.
I know this is an old post but am looking for help with one of these Race TCS units.
Im running an LS7 and E67 in a kit car. Trigger wheels on rear and front, all appears to be good.
LED light on and blinks correctly when adjusting pot.
If I start logging with engine off, logging runs (no speed, rpm etc of course) and when adjusting pot you can see the preset change. All good.
The problem is, once the engine is started the logging dies after literally a couple of seconds.
ive monitor the TCS led, it stays on as expected. All connectors are sound. Ground is good, but it won’t log.
The unit itself appears to work with some crude settings but it’s far from ideal as if I can’t log I can’t refine it.
ive gone back and forth with Jacek who has been super helpful, but we’ve yet to find a solution hence reviving this old thread.its Hot yo be something small but I can’t find it!
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