Supercharger build plan for 2000 C5
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Joined: Mar 2021
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Supercharger build plan for 2000 C5 Hi everyone,
I am looking for feedback and advice for my build plan going on my stock 2000 C5 coupe with LS1 and A4 transmission. The main thing I’ve struggled with is identifying a forged piston and rod combo.
The LS1 is stock, before I add an a&a kit with vortech V3 Si supercharger at 8-10lbs of boost, along with a blower cam 220/230 116+3 .581/.591 and top end upgrades. I am keeping stock LS1 crank and heads and I’m aiming for 550-600 whp, it will be a street car with spirited driving on backroads.
I have found 2618 forged Wiseco -11cc dish with 3.903” bore and 3.622” stroke (#10-K444X3903) and Eagle H-beam rods 6.125 w/.927” pin (6125O3DL19). Will this combination work well with the otherwise stock bottom end and my intended build? Does the 3.903” bore (larger over stock?) mean the cylinders MUST be honed? That’s the closest piston bore to stock I’ve found.
Here are the rest of my intended parts:
- A&A supercharged cam kit from BTR with Btr dual valve springs, steel retainers, pushrods
- A&A supercharger kit
- alternator p/s pump bracket upgrade
- p/s pump pulley upgrade
- upgraded harmonic balancer pinned to crank
- ARP 2000 rod bolts
- ARP cam bolts
- straub trunion bushing kit
- cloyes timing chain set
- elite engineering oil catch can
- melling high pressure oil pump
- RPM level V trans
- Yank SS 3200 TC
- 3.42 diff ring and pinion replacement (currently has 3.15)
Any thoughts on this plan would be greatly appreciated, I’ve done a lot of research but I need a more experienced opinion so I can start ordering parts.
many thanks !
dan
I am looking for feedback and advice for my build plan going on my stock 2000 C5 coupe with LS1 and A4 transmission. The main thing I’ve struggled with is identifying a forged piston and rod combo.
The LS1 is stock, before I add an a&a kit with vortech V3 Si supercharger at 8-10lbs of boost, along with a blower cam 220/230 116+3 .581/.591 and top end upgrades. I am keeping stock LS1 crank and heads and I’m aiming for 550-600 whp, it will be a street car with spirited driving on backroads.
I have found 2618 forged Wiseco -11cc dish with 3.903” bore and 3.622” stroke (#10-K444X3903) and Eagle H-beam rods 6.125 w/.927” pin (6125O3DL19). Will this combination work well with the otherwise stock bottom end and my intended build? Does the 3.903” bore (larger over stock?) mean the cylinders MUST be honed? That’s the closest piston bore to stock I’ve found.
Here are the rest of my intended parts:
- A&A supercharged cam kit from BTR with Btr dual valve springs, steel retainers, pushrods
- A&A supercharger kit
- alternator p/s pump bracket upgrade
- p/s pump pulley upgrade
- upgraded harmonic balancer pinned to crank
- ARP 2000 rod bolts
- ARP cam bolts
- straub trunion bushing kit
- cloyes timing chain set
- elite engineering oil catch can
- melling high pressure oil pump
- RPM level V trans
- Yank SS 3200 TC
- 3.42 diff ring and pinion replacement (currently has 3.15)
Any thoughts on this plan would be greatly appreciated, I’ve done a lot of research but I need a more experienced opinion so I can start ordering parts.
many thanks !
dan
Honed for the pistons...yes. The -11 cc dish will make your compression ratio much lower than needed. This will hurt response and low end torque.
Any reason you need to rebuild the motor rather than boosting it as is with only an 8-10 psi goal?
I'd also up the trans build to level 6, keep the current gear ratio, and run the yank pas 3400 instead of the yank SS 3200 converter.
What is your fuel system and fuel choice?
Any reason you need to rebuild the motor rather than boosting it as is with only an 8-10 psi goal?
I'd also up the trans build to level 6, keep the current gear ratio, and run the yank pas 3400 instead of the yank SS 3200 converter.
What is your fuel system and fuel choice?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2021
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Honed for the pistons...yes. The -11 cc dish will make your compression ratio much lower than needed. This will hurt response and low end torque.
Any reason you need to rebuild the motor rather than boosting it as is with only an 8-10 psi goal?
I'd also up the trans build to level 6, keep the current gear ratio, and run the yank pas 3400 instead of the yank SS 3200 converter.
What is your fuel system and fuel choice?
Any reason you need to rebuild the motor rather than boosting it as is with only an 8-10 psi goal?
I'd also up the trans build to level 6, keep the current gear ratio, and run the yank pas 3400 instead of the yank SS 3200 converter.
What is your fuel system and fuel choice?
So I’ve seen anywhere from -2cc dish to -15cc dish recommended on the forums for F/I, what would you suggest for me to achieve a good compression ratio?
On building the motor, I’ve read so many stories of piston 7 giving out in boosted LS1’s and requiring a rebuild, I’d rather have the peace of mind and eliminate the risk (as much as possible) while I do the top end components. I often select 2nd gear and repeatedly blast mid to high rpm’s on the winding roads, not just WOT for 10 seconds then back to cruising. And who knows when I might get the itch for a smaller pulley! Do you not think I need forged internals?
I didn’t know of the PAS series, I’ll take your advice on these trans components. Any reason why I should keep the 3.15 diff? The 3.42’s seem to be extremely popular and would help keep the rpm’s in boost.
Fuel system, the a&a kit comes with a “racetronix or lingenfelter” fuel pump, I’ll be getting 80# injectors too. I run 99 octane pump gas, but I’m in the U.K. and I believe that’s the equivalent of the US 93. Not interested in running methanol and I don’t even know if e85 is available here, never seen it!
Thanks for the response!
So I’ve seen anywhere from -2cc dish to -15cc dish recommended on the forums for F/I, what would you suggest for me to achieve a good compression ratio?
On building the motor, I’ve read so many stories of piston 7 giving out in boosted LS1’s and requiring a rebuild, I’d rather have the peace of mind and eliminate the risk (as much as possible) while I do the top end components. I often select 2nd gear and repeatedly blast mid to high rpm’s on the winding roads, not just WOT for 10 seconds then back to cruising. And who knows when I might get the itch for a smaller pulley! Do you not think I need forged internals?
I didn’t know of the PAS series, I’ll take your advice on these trans components. Any reason why I should keep the 3.15 diff? The 3.42’s seem to be extremely popular and would help keep the rpm’s in boost.
Fuel system, the a&a kit comes with a “racetronix or lingenfelter” fuel pump, I’ll be getting 80# injectors too. I run 99 octane pump gas, but I’m in the U.K. and I believe that’s the equivalent of the US 93. Not interested in running methanol and I don’t even know if e85 is available here, never seen it!
So I’ve seen anywhere from -2cc dish to -15cc dish recommended on the forums for F/I, what would you suggest for me to achieve a good compression ratio?
On building the motor, I’ve read so many stories of piston 7 giving out in boosted LS1’s and requiring a rebuild, I’d rather have the peace of mind and eliminate the risk (as much as possible) while I do the top end components. I often select 2nd gear and repeatedly blast mid to high rpm’s on the winding roads, not just WOT for 10 seconds then back to cruising. And who knows when I might get the itch for a smaller pulley! Do you not think I need forged internals?
I didn’t know of the PAS series, I’ll take your advice on these trans components. Any reason why I should keep the 3.15 diff? The 3.42’s seem to be extremely popular and would help keep the rpm’s in boost.
Fuel system, the a&a kit comes with a “racetronix or lingenfelter” fuel pump, I’ll be getting 80# injectors too. I run 99 octane pump gas, but I’m in the U.K. and I believe that’s the equivalent of the US 93. Not interested in running methanol and I don’t even know if e85 is available here, never seen it!
I like peace of mind as well so certainly nothing wrong with building the motor with forged internals especially if you may add more boost down the road.
You can contact yank as they recommended the pas 3400 over the 3200 ss I previously had in a small cubic inch centrifugal supercharger setup.
With boost lower gears aren’t needed IMO. I’d keep the stock gear.
