I'm thinking about going with the Daytona Smart Spark with my blow thru project and if I do, I'll need a boost controller. I have the control unit for the Greddy Profec B, Spec 2 but that's all I got is the control unit. I know nothing about these so if some one could tell me what else I need to make this work I'd appreciate it. It might not even be worth it cost wise, I don't know. I know I'll need the solenoid and wiring harness so I was wondering if there is anyway to use 2 Mac solenoids? Maybe there is someone out there that has one that the control unit went bad and would sell the rest.

 

Here's the manual for it, which shows the "parts list" that should come with it when new.

http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf

My opinion, worth 2 cents, is that if you're keeping it simple, then why not simply use a manual boost controller? You can always upgrade, or update in the future.

Regardless, it looks like the harnesses for that controller, are easily replicated, just won't be "plug in" unless you also buy/use some weatherpack or whoever's connectors. The MAC valves, hose, fittings, etc., can be bought all over the internet. Amazon probably has most, if not all, of it. You can absolutely "T" two MAC valves together.

 

I've found the Mac valves, I just wondered if you can use them with this unit. I found a place that had the parts with prices but everything you clicked on said discontinued. I finally found the part numbers of what I need so I emailed Greddy. I would like to have a way of controlling boost, I want to run a 5.70 class and it would be nice to have some type of controller, I should just go with the Terminator X but I still have a lot of parts to buy yet. I'd have more safeties and data with the TX.

 

I don't think I've ever seen any electronic boost controller that did NOT use MAC valves, but I'm no expert by any means.

I totally understand wanting some control. My controller has just two boost setting presets. I use the main one (default), as my "low" boost, and the 2nd one as my "high" boost, or in my case, triggered with an external "scramble" button, since I bracket race.
I datalog every pass and made myself a little laminated "cheat sheet", which tells me (pretty closely) what % to set my controller at, for a specific amount of boost, and ET (footbraking). I can pretty closely dial in anywhere from mid 11's to mid 9's, and anywhere in between, and may try some 10.0 Index class racing this year, so I 100% get what you want to do.

So, to run a 10.0 index, using transbrake, I'd need 40% duty cycle on the mac valve, or 50% if footbraking, since car is obviously slower (or mine is anyway). Then tweak it a few % one way or the other to get dead on.

 

That''s pretty much what I was thinking, when we bracket raced we were HIGH Tech, I had like a $12 walmart deal, temp, barometer and humidity gauage at the tear of the enclosed trailer, my daughty would log every pass in the Jeg's book and then make notes also. We could roll out of the trailer and she could dial it with out a time trial. The solenoid they have is a type s ECM3, 3 port for $90, so I'm guessing that's like a 3 port Mac valve so I shouldn't have any problem wiring in 2 from what little I know about them. So that would only leave the wiring harness and hoses I would think. Thanks by the way, 2 forums and you are the only one that has helped me with this.

 

But,but,... High Tech. Are you trying to say you got your results by actually doing the required work? I thought the movies told me to only pay attention to 10 seconds at a time?

 

I'm saying we raced with very little money, at that time you seen a lot of people with their weather stations and a lot of fancy crap we couldn't afford. We won our share by recording every run and going back and doing the work.