I have a 2004 5.3 lm7 that I am thinking of putting a remote mount turbo on what size would you recommend I am thinking of twins as that would be easiest instead of rerouting my whole exhaust. It is a stock engine right now. I am thinking of 500 -600 wheel horsepower as a goal. What would I need to make it live under boost.
thanks in advance

 

Mind if I ask why remote mount?

I have a 94 obs 2 door blazer with a bone stock 08 5.3/4l60e 4wd.. being an 08 5.3 they are gen4, and come with the big boi throttlebody and tbss intake manifold.. my setup uses stock manifolds flipped/vband'd, 2.5" dia. primary tubes, s475/96 t6, 45mm hypergate, 4port mac, fmic with 3" piping, 1500cc injectors, 4bar map, tr6 plugs gapped down, 525lph fuel pump, rising rate fpr, 10an feed/return, flex sensor, and a terminator xmax.. Just made 630whp on e60 @ 17psi with some baby soft timing, and super happy with it for now.. however my setup is overkill for just 500hp, but runs great at it also.. soon to install second fuel pump, cam, springs, lifters, do some oiling mods, steam port mods, studs, some coolers for oil/trans, 160° tstat, hook up the I/O expansion module, dial-a-boost, and swap in either turbo400 or 4l80e with high stall triple disc conv. whichever I have ready first when the 60e takes a dump..

Here's the biggest problem.. If you build your vehicle for 500hp, thinking your just going to stay at 500hp, your definitely mistaken.. believe me, once you hit that 500hp mark, it won't even be 3 months later, you'll be looking to turn up the boost, and wring out them bald eagles! Let's face it if you want to mess with it now, that itch doesnt go away..

I always try to build so there is room left to turn it up without maxing out turbo, injectors/fuel system since they are pretty expensive, and in alot of cases can outlive the engine, so why not try to keep those parts instead of wasting time/money upgrading parts everytime you want more merica! also I feel like if you keep duty cycle down parts tend to last longer..

My thought is you can make 500 reliable hp for cheapest with room to turn it up using a BW s472 - s475, or VS Racing 7875 billet gen2 or newer..

if you want twins, you could do twin s362 or s366, or vsr twin 67mm-72mm turbos

turbosmart, or VSR 45-60mm wastegate (gate sizing more or less will depend on how good you are with proper gate placement.. mines on the turbine housing at the perfect angle, which I believe to be the most efficient placement)

Don't go chasing expensive ball bearing turbos if you want reliable, stick with good old journal boys.. unless it's a vsr and cheap, and you don't care.. (I've done precision and Garrett gtx r series and have over spun, over oiled, and just worn out turbos in a few thousand miles, where a good old bw s475 like the 171702 will outlast whatever you put it on!

I like Sep fuel injectors for the price, and think their 1500cc injectors are great, but you could run 1000cc and be fine at 500hp even if you wanted to run flex fuel..
however you should just get the 1500cc injectors if your buying them anyway..

Get a 525lph fuel pump.. I'm just about maxng mine out at 630hp as I went from 58psi to 54psi at 17psi boost, but you'd be fine with that same pump upto my power levels..

ls9 map sensor, tr6 plugs, rising rate fpr, 8an fuel line feed/return, set up good cooling for oil and trans, add a shift kit and corvette servo if you have a 60e.. pretty much anything else I've listed also..

 

i was thinking of rear mount because i don’t have that much room under the hood and it already has exhaust out the back, that makes sense to build it for more so it is easier for when I want more power, it is in a 1981 k5 blazer so I want to keep it as clean as I can under the hood

 

You could chuck your entire existing exhaust and remake it for the same amount of effort or less (probably less effort) than routing your charge air pipes for a twin rearmount setup. Add to that the additional wiring and plumbing for your necessary oil return pump, and you are already into more effort to make a rear mount. If you are dead stuck on it, stay with a single, as every bit of exhaust pipe surface area bleeds off heat energy which will slow your spool time. My old rear mount system that I took off my GTO would put the car through the traps at 124mph on a cold run, and 129mph on a hot lap, and that was a single with exhaust wrap going all the way back. That is a HUGE power difference just from having more heat in the exhaust. Personally I would never do a rear mount again unless I was building a Fiero or 911.