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All this extra money to run a procharger that will make less hp per lb of boost and is much harder on your crank and bearings. Go turbo and make more power and not have to deal with that terrible noisy procharger sound. My F1a was so loud at idle and on the highway that it made me not want to drive my car, I also dont want to draw attention to myself any more than I already do but some people like that nonsense.
also, the vast majority of cranks are forged in Chyna including some of callies cranks (non counterweighted) all of the K1, texas speed, etc are not from the US.
All this extra money to run a procharger that will make less hp per lb of boost and is much harder on your crank and bearings. Go turbo and make more power and not have to deal with that terrible noisy procharger sound. My F1a was so loud at idle and on the highway that it made me not want to drive my car, I also dont want to draw attention to myself any more than I already do but some people like that nonsense.
All this extra money to run a procharger that will make less hp per lb of boost and is much harder on your crank and bearings. Go turbo and make more power and not have to deal with that terrible noisy procharger sound. My F1a was so loud at idle and on the highway that it made me not want to drive my car, I also dont want to draw attention to myself any more than I already do but some people like that nonsense.
also, the vast majority of cranks are forged in Chyna including some of callies cranks (non counterweighted) all of the K1, texas speed, etc are not from the US.
Just joking… but in all seriousness, we all have our preferences and if I was looking for input on what type of forced induction to go with, I would’ve started a thread about that. Appreciate the advice though!
I appreciate the diagnosis. Not sensitive, just don’t want to listen to someone else say “go turbo” in a thread that was never started to ask if I should go turbo. I appreciate your input, I truly do, but please stop muddying up my thread with information I didn’t ask for.
I would use any quality forged crank from callies, crower, k1 etc. and a crank support. That should handle your build.
Here is a super trick, billet aluminum, front cover with crank support integrated into it. From down under, joe blow speedshop(great name right😁
Shes a beaut.
I was actually in contact with Joe about this very part this past Thursday. Have you ever used one personally?
Was hanging out with my buddy and he's been 8.5@162 in a 2006 C6 with a D1X, a/w. I can ask him what crank. I figure he's 1100ish right.
The D1x is an impressive little blower. I ran one on my current motor with stock crank for about 4 years before moving up to the f1a-94. I haven't run my current combo in the 1/4 as everything streetcar is 1/8th mile now. Freaking heavy GTO can you find out what his trap speed in the 1/8th was?
I think you misunderstood the point of my post. I'm sorry if I offended you. I fully understand that 900+ at the tires isn't 1400 crank. It's probably a good 1100 at the crank and I just wanted to clarify I was talking wheel hp when I mentioned 900.
I have not been on a dyno as I only tune on the street and track. Based upon a 1/8th mile trap speed of 125 mph at 3750 lbs race weight I think it was safe to say I'm over 900 rwhp based upon the calculators I use and that is a much better gauge than a dyno in reality as dynos are much more easily manipulated. It's probably a good bit more than 900 rwhp actually.
My comment was meant to spur discussion on how cubic inches don't have a big impact on peak numbers only the curve as in more torque over a broader range when using the same blower at the same impeller speed as long as there are no major mechanical or ignition issues.
Again, sorry for the misunderstanding and sorry for offending you.
ETA: I'm considering going to an F1x and yes I will continue running the same engine combo until it breaks and then build a new combo.
it's all good. we just talked past each other. I wasnt saying you were making way less power and im with you, its not like a turbo app where the bigger the NA power the bigger boosted power. Blower cfm is xxx and it may just change the boost you see for a given setup. What power do you think you'll be at with the F1?
All this extra money to run a procharger that will make less hp per lb of boost and is much harder on your crank and bearings. Go turbo and make more power and not have to deal with that terrible noisy procharger sound. My F1a was so loud at idle and on the highway that it made me not want to drive my car, I also dont want to draw attention to myself any more than I already do but some people like that nonsense.
also, the vast majority of cranks are forged in Chyna including some of callies cranks (non counterweighted) all of the K1, texas speed, etc are not from the US.
The F1a-94 is definitely noticeable at idle, but cruising around it's hardly noticeable in the car. Here is a little video of my car when the music stops you will notice it isn't really that loud. I have a quiet magnaflow exhaust on it as well.
it's all good. we just talked past each other. I wasnt saying you were making way less power and im with you, its not like a turbo app where the bigger the NA power the bigger boosted power. Blower cfm is xxx and it may just change the boost you see for a given setup. What power do you think you'll be at with the F1?
Power numbers are only estimates since I haven't been on a dyno. I've called about getting on a few dynos in the state and they don't let anyone "rent" their dyno. I said I just want to make a few pulls and they said I would have to pay for a tune. There isn't anyone local I would let tune my car so that's a no from me.
It's got to be easily over 900 rwhp probably closer to 1000 rwhp with a 125 mph 1/8th mile trap speed at 3750 pounds. I'm on e85 and meth with 18 degrees peak timing with 10.6 to 1 compression and a custom cam motion cam for my combo. IAT with the big air to air are barely over ambient during a pull even in the summer.
I don’t know of any shop that will let joe blow stranger loose with the dyno.
paying them for the tune is just their way of collecting profit they have invested into the equipment and wage for employee. If it makes it easier to swallow, call it the cost of using the dyno, but tuner comes free with it.
every shop I’ve used would understand if you wanted to tune yourself though. But the dyno cost is the same.
I have a friend who built an LS2 GTO with a LSA blower. He made about 650 hp. He said there was so much low end power he blew the tires off at the local 1/8 mile track.
I don’t know of any shop that will let joe blow stranger loose with the dyno.
paying them for the tune is just their way of collecting profit they have invested into the equipment and wage for employee. If it makes it easier to swallow, call it the cost of using the dyno, but tuner comes free with it.
every shop I’ve used would understand if you wanted to tune yourself though. But the dyno cost is the same.
I offered to pay their rate for a tune but didn't want them to touch the tune. I never once asked to operate the dyno. I wanted them to operate it and even run the car just don't touch the tune. They wouldn't allow it unless they were tuning it. Seems odd to me and I have trust issues allowing anyone else to work on my car as I do all of my own work and tuning.
Their house their rules so I decided to just use trap speed to judge my power level close enough because at the end of the day dyno numbers aren't as important as track times.
I was actually in contact with Joe about this very part this past Thursday. Have you ever used one personally?
I did bought one from him, but have not yet had time to assembly the engine.
It is a beautiful piece and I am sure it will do a great job for what it is intended.
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