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Water meth injection diy setup questions

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Old Feb 11, 2024 | 11:56 AM
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Default Water meth injection diy setup questions

Looking to put water meth injection on an SBC with a roots blower. For now I plan to use a carb plate such as the snow performance one that can accept up to 4 nozzles but plan to make a billet spacer to go under the carb adapter plate on the blower with 3 nozzles per side.

​​​​​I've seen people mention getting nozzles at mcmaster carr fairly cheap. Which nozzles are you using to get a good automation/spray pattern and how are you installing them into a plate? I've seen some companies like NX that just have the nozzle screw in on the inside of the plate which I'm not a huge fan of having something that can fall into the intake.

Also any recommendations for a pump? Found the company that aem and snow use and found the identical pump but can't seem to find anyone that carries it as most are sold with a pressure switch rather than an adjustable bypass which I would like to have to control flow.

I have also considered just getting a pump and having it run continuously with a bypass regulator and return to the tank as the pumps don't seem to draw much current. Any opinions on this?

Last edited by 99JT; Feb 11, 2024 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2024 | 07:45 PM
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That’s a lot of nozzles. Why not run a single nozzle or dual (if you really need it) and a pump with a progressive controller. No need for so many nozzles and don’t make it overcomplicated. I run a single but have done dual, snow pump and a AEM progressive controller and It works great. Flow requirements determine how many nozzles and placement is dictated by the setup and where you have room.
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Old Feb 13, 2024 | 12:13 PM
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The shurflo 8000 series pump was the standard for a long time. You can remove the pressure switch on top easily. Unfortunately everything has gotten expensive lately. So at $400, a progressive kit is really isn't that bad of a deal. You'll end up paying close to that building your own with a Shurflo pump and purchased nozzles, fittings, switches etc. And it won't be as nice.

If you have an aftermarket ECU, you can also use any SSR relay to pulse the pump for progressive control.

Carb(s) on top of the blower? I'd just angle some cheap nozzles over the top of the carb. Mounted on the air cleaner works best IMO. That way the nozzles aren't under much suction and don't have to fight boost pressure.



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Old Feb 19, 2024 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
That’s a lot of nozzles. Why not run a single nozzle or dual (if you really need it) and a pump with a progressive controller. No need for so many nozzles and don’t make it overcomplicated. I run a single but have done dual, snow pump and a AEM progressive controller and It works great. Flow requirements determine how many nozzles and placement is dictated by the setup and where you have room.
1 Or 2 nozzles would work just fine but I wanna run 6 smaller nozzles rather than one large one for better distribution and I think the setup looks pretty good.
Ill attach some pics. I went ahead and made up a prototype plate to sit on top of the blower, got a price to have it made in aluminum and it's the same price I'd pay for the snow performance plate. Just want to bring the outer nozzles I. Toward the center a bit and round the 4 corners to match the carb plate other than that it fits like a glove.

I'm using my Holley ECU to control everything so I don't need a controller or any of the wiring that's the main reason for not going wip




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Last edited by 99JT; Feb 19, 2024 at 01:02 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2024 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
The shurflo 8000 series pump was the standard for a long time. You can remove the pressure switch on top easily. Unfortunately everything has gotten expensive lately. So at $400, a progressive kit is really isn't that bad of a deal. You'll end up paying close to that building your own with a Shurflo pump and purchased nozzles, fittings, switches etc. And it won't be as nice.

If you have an aftermarket ECU, you can also use any SSR relay to pulse the pump for progressive control.

Carb(s) on top of the blower? I'd just angle some cheap nozzles over the top of the carb. Mounted on the air cleaner works best IMO. That way the nozzles aren't under much suction and don't have to fight boost pressure.
I'm gonna be controlling it with my Holley ECU so all Im really looking for is the pump and nozzles. Probably gonna go with an aem pump because it's not that much more than going with the sureflo.
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Old Feb 19, 2024 | 04:35 PM
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I thought carbs do the cooling like injection nozzles would? One nozzle is more than enough to drown the engine out btw. 6 is quite the overkill. hopefully you can get small enough nozzles.
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Old Feb 20, 2024 | 12:18 PM
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Multiple smaller nozzles work better than one large. They make finer droplets. More of a "fog" if you have enough pressure. I'm sure that setup will work well. Getting the correct nozzles and check valves before each nozzle will be pricey though.

You can use a large solenoid, but it will still drip and drain the lines in between. Makes for a lot of stuttering when you let off initially. Also a pain if it activates on the burnout or staging. Then you have control issues when running duty cycle based control to the pump only.flow isn't linear I tested DC VS pressure VS flow over on my mustang build thread.

By the time you add it all up, it gets expensive. Might be cheaper to add a 220lb injector or 2 and using the holley to control it. Would have a TON more control, no check valves, solenoids, etc.

These proflow setups are kinda cheap and cool. Believe they are like $220.


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Old Feb 20, 2024 | 01:00 PM
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If I remember the AEM nozzels have built in check valves in the nozzles so you won't have to worry about the vacuum draining the line up to the solenoid. Devils own had some kind of check valve too to prevent this I think.
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Old Feb 20, 2024 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Multiple smaller nozzles work better than one large. They make finer droplets. More of a "fog" if you have enough pressure. I'm sure that setup will work well. Getting the correct nozzles and check valves before each nozzle will be pricey though.

You can use a large solenoid, but it will still drip and drain the lines in between. Makes for a lot of stuttering when you let off initially. Also a pain if it activates on the burnout or staging. Then you have control issues when running duty cycle based control to the pump only.flow isn't linear I tested DC VS pressure VS flow over on my mustang build thread.

By the time you add it all up, it gets expensive. Might be cheaper to add a 220lb injector or 2 and using the holley to control it. Would have a TON more control, no check valves, solenoids, etc.

These proflow setups are kinda cheap and cool. Believe they are like $220.

I have thought about using injectors and that's still something I'm gonna look into. Theirs a picture of a rough prototype plate I made for for the blower posted above that's setup for 1/8 not nozzles but I can easily change it to injectors.

Any thoughts using some enderle nozzles? Just not sure how well they atomize and if I can find something with the right flow.
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Old Feb 21, 2024 | 09:47 AM
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I didn’t know AEM nozzles had check valves, but you are right. They do. $80 plus tax/shipping a pair though. Be pretty expensive to grab 6 of them. Limited to 250, 500, 1000cc as well. If ya ran 6, the least amount you could spray would be 24gph. Would need to spray 100% meth for sure. Don't look like 1/8th NPT either.

Think Devils Own went belly up in the US. Their site is down anyway. Only the UK site is still up. Their check valves were $35 each and kinda bulky. I run them on my current setup.

https://www.aemelectronics.com/produ.../parts/30-3315
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Old Feb 22, 2024 | 11:00 PM
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Do you just need a regular one-way check valve? I'm planning to do something similar on my NA setup with dual 4500 TBs. Nitrous outlet sells a nice plate that should distribute well. I e-mailed them to ask if it can be used for methanol instead of nitrous, which I don't see why it couldn't. They sell the same plate for "wet" kits.

I currently have these check valves on my setup, but the nozzles are in the air intake VS in the intake manifold for the new configuration. https://www.alkycontrol.com/shop/check-valve-hipsi
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Old Feb 23, 2024 | 07:52 AM
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You need a check valve with enough pressure to keep it closed under full vacuum if you mount it on the manifold is all. Most of the cheap options have too low of a cracking pressure. In general you don't want to use brass/copper with methanol either. And the internal check valve parts must also be compatible with water/meth.
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Old Feb 23, 2024 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
You need a check valve with enough pressure to keep it closed under full vacuum if you mount it on the manifold is all. Most of the cheap options have too low of a cracking pressure. In general you don't want to use brass/copper with methanol either. And the internal check valve parts must also be compatible with water/meth.
Makes sense. I guess I was trying to think too much into it.

I got all my meth parts from that website. The base kit pretty much comes with all brass fittings. As far as I can tell, I haven’t had or seen any issues with the brass fittings. I’ve had full M1 in the system for over a year and M5 for a few months. I’ll try those check valves and see how they hold up.
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Old Feb 23, 2024 | 10:30 AM
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Did you look inside them? When I took mine apart and looked inside after a year or so I would see a white corrosion powder substance. It was in all my brass fittings anyway. In the screen on the nozzle too. Its why most companies use Nickle plated fittings or nylon and plastic.I switched over to the nickle plated stuff at that time and never had another issue.
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Old Feb 23, 2024 | 07:22 PM
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I had the bigger fittings opened a few weeks ago and didn't see anything like that. I'll look at the nozzles/check valves this weekend. Maybe I'll just order the stainless ones either way. Definitely don't want them to fail and drown my engine.
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Old Mar 9, 2024 | 04:30 AM
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Ended up ordering the stainless versions. Is 10psi enough pressure to keep it from leaking under vacuum? Kind of worried now. This is a little out of my element and don't want to flood my motor.
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Old Mar 10, 2024 | 11:36 AM
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Couldn't say. depends how much vac the motor makes and how they are mounted. Just mark your container and check after idling a bit. I don't think it'd be enough to lock a motor or anything. Shoudl be pretty easy to tell if its leaking. I want to say the devils own units were higher but I forget.
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Old Mar 10, 2024 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Couldn't say. depends how much vac the motor makes and how they are mounted. Just mark your container and check after idling a bit. I don't think it'd be enough to lock a motor or anything. Shoudl be pretty easy to tell if its leaking. I want to say the devils own units were higher but I forget.
The Devil's own setup I used years back did not have a check valve in the kit. It would suck the tank dry in no time under vacuum until I fixed the problem. The pump and progressive controller worked flawlessly, though.
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Old Mar 10, 2024 | 08:07 PM
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Looks like those check valves weren’t enough. Intake had meth sitting at the bottom after I turned off the car. Just going to pull the kit off. It’s not worth the headache anymore at this point.


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Old Mar 10, 2024 | 11:53 PM
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Devils own def had check valves, just depends if you used them or not. These are the ones I used and say they had a 16 psi cracking point.

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