700whp should get you a 9 second pass. I ran 9.35 @146mph with a weak 1.45 60ft when I was making 730whp.

 

I was just thinking the same thing.
The OP has some really good parts in the car to start, just needs to add a few more and dial them in imho.

 

Ya 700 rwhp should do 9’a in an fbody. I went 10.2 with only 632 rwhp in a 3800 lbs GTO and a 1.58 60’.

I should be knocking on the 8 second door now but I have only been running 1/8th mile for the last several years. None of the street car classes or small tire classes seem to run 1/4 mile anymore.

 

I'm running a manual trans, however. Seems like manual cars need more power to run similar ETs to autos. I remember how disappointed I was when a buddies bolt on Trans Am ran 12.2 with a Yank torque converter installed ( and 2.73 gears! ) and I was running similar numbers with full bolt ons AND heads/cam. Granted, I trapped 4-5 MPH higher, but I was still barely keeping pace. Maybe with the suspension mods I need to do, I can get my 60's into the 1.5-1.6 range and my ET's will drop accordingly.

 

Whats your rear suspension set up?

 

I hate to say it, but this has always held true for me anyways, stick for fun, auto to run.
The challenge I always had with my T56 car was getting the full 14lbs. in first and second gear, I wouldn't even hit 14lbs. until mid-way through 3rd gear so my short track was terrible, but it would back half like a monster.
My BOV was stuck shut unbeknownst to me at this time which really helped with boost drop on the shift so maybe keep that in mind, unplug your BOV at the track.
If it were me, I'd stick a much taller rear gear in it, 3.00 or 3.25 (get that SLR down), coil overs all around (Viking Warriors have worked well for me), good anti roll bar (TRZ makes a killer one but requires a little fab work, specific rear end construction and factory ride height, I just ordered a bolt in one from MWC for my Fab 9 rear end), ditch the front sway bar, get a dedicated 15" rear wheel/tire setup for the track (28" x10" MT or Hoosier slick) getting that no lift shift setup you have up and running will be a big help and sound badass at the same time.
9's outta be well within reach, then you can add more power via whatever means you want.
Just my $.02.

 

Are you still running a 4.30 gear?

 

I have tubular LCAs, relocation brackets, a Chris Alston tunnel mount adjustable torque arm, but the remainder is stock. I'm planning on doing double adjustable shocks, the aforementioned anti-roll bar, and I figure that should be all I need in the rear. I'm not trying to make this into a race car, so I understand my suspension is going to be a compromise.

 

I do still have the 4.30's for the time being, but I was planning on either 3.54s or 3.73s. The 4.30s are way too much gear for a turbo combination. 3.54 is the lowest I can go numerically, as I have an S60. I have no front sway bar, it won't fit with the Huronspeed kit.

I know I'm sort of half-assing it, because I don't want to make this car into a gutted, purpose built drag car. I want it to look relatively stock from the outside, and I don't want to add a bunch of extremely noisy suspension components (i.e. no rod ends, I want to stay with bushings ). So it's never going to 60' really well. I drive it 99% of the time on the street, and the first time it hooks even remotely well at the track, I'm gonna be in the 10's which is going to get me kicked out anyway. I have no roll bar and won't put one in because they're dangerous on the street. I also want to stay away from the "big and little" tire combinations... I ran like that before and I didn't like how it drove on the street.

@The ****** I pretty much plan on most of what you mentioned, and may buy an extra pair of 15" wheels to mount some bias plies on when the time comes. I see a lot of people running fast on larger diameter wheels,and that's the direction I want to head. I'm going to ditch what I have and do a staggered combo with 17X9.5s in the front and 17X11's in the back, with either 315/35/17 or 305/40/17 drag radials. Not the ideal combination, I know. But there's something that compels me to try and make this thing look and sound completely ordinary, yet run a quick number. I'm also planning on installing a clutch tamer and getting the traction control features unlocked on my Terminator X so I have the ability to use as much power as the surface can handle, whether on the street or the track.

 

Totally understand what you're saying, my current car has complete AM suspension front to rear, works great but also comes with all the clunks and squeaks a race-oriented suspension provides.
There's plenty of guys out there who've gone fast on worn out 4th gen suspensions with a few tweaks though.
I had 3.73's in my last six speed car and wish I'd have gone with a 3.50, street manners would have still been good and I'm sure my front half at the track would've been better.
Start with gears and some DA shocks in the front, if you can get it to weight transfer and keep the nose up it may be enough to get you down the track on the larger diameter wheels.
You'll never get 18lbs. to hook in first with a 17" wheel and your suspension mods so limiting boost, bringing it in on a delay, boost by gear or perhaps a combo of one or more might be the way, be very curious to see what do here.
Make sure your LCA's are parallel with the ground for starters or slightly uphill (I think I have that right lol), there are also front LCA buckets you can buy that are welded in that really give you a lot more flexibility for tuning in more separation.
Several different avenues that you can take that will help still keep the streetcar aspect.

 

Yeah I think with 3.54's or 3.73s the car will work better on the street and track.

My old 4th gen stick buddies would get the nose up and have it stay up a long time. I think they ran the rears pretty stiff and on a slick.

 

With high quality double adjustable shocks/coilovers front and rear along with how easy it is to make power these days it's easy to run 9's with a full weight full interior car. I'm running these times with a 3800 lbs car so nearly 4000 lbs race weight with IRS and it's a super clean car. Just adjust the shocks for race day or street driving and that's it. Super clean even with the roll bar installed.

 

Y'all worried about 1000whp on the street and I was putting down 1400+whp on bone stock suspension from a roll, lol..

As far as the other stuff, tire HEIGHT really helps with street traction. 28"-30" if you can fit the bigger tire. Also, the bigger wheels help due to their weight. So, a bigger wheel and wide tire. Kind of just depends on the "look" you want. Small wheel/big tire or big wheel/small tire.

 

Just curious, did Steve Morris have any ideas on power, since he machined the block-I thought going .030 on a liner was pushing it, but I have only ran cast blocks, then just .005 as needed.

 

305/40/17s are 28" tall, and I figured they'd give me a little more sidewall as well. Still going to be 'big and little' in a way, but only the outer diameter. 26" tall tires just seem dinky anymore, after having 29" tall ones on my SS. If I set my ride height correctly with equal gaps front and rear, it'll give it a bit of a rake which should look pretty wicked.

Steve set up all my ring gaps and bearing clearances after I said I was looking for a max of 1000 RWHP. He didn't seem concerned about my set up at that level. If I end up pushing it more, I'll likely consult with him on what steps I should take. As for the bore size, LH6 blocks can be bored .125 over with no ill effects. I only went .030 so I'd have a lot of cylinder wall left over for running boost.

 

Im not a roll racer it’s all from a dig for me.