Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

4th Gen Camaro Haltech Rebel LS Install

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 16, 2026 | 05:04 PM
  #241  
Pro Stock John's Avatar
LS1Tech Co-Founder
20 Year Member
Community Influencer
iTrader: (34)
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,306
Likes: 1,744
From: Chicago, IL
Default

Leaky fittings... brings up some bad memories.

Got a link to the yellow tape, sounds like something I want in my tool chest.
Reply
Old Apr 17, 2026 | 09:18 AM
  #242  
Black_Sunshine_99's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
10 Year Member
Community Builder
Liked
Community Favorite
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,821
Likes: 810
From: Washington
Default

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Leaky fittings... brings up some bad memories.

Got a link to the yellow tape, sounds like something I want in my tool chest.
Here you go John, this stuff is available at Home Depot / Lowes and is super cheap.
I saw "Gasline" and initially kinda dismissed it thinking gas line as in a home or something, but when I went to HD to check on it, it literally says "for assemblies carrying gasoline" so I knew it was good lol.


Reply
Old Apr 20, 2026 | 09:35 AM
  #243  
Black_Sunshine_99's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
10 Year Member
Community Builder
Liked
Community Favorite
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,821
Likes: 810
From: Washington
Default

Morning gents, still working through a few things here.
So when I had the car up on stands, I checked to see if the speedometer was working which when dropped into 1st gear at idle would show 9-10 mph which seemed about right for tire speed at idle. However, when I put the car on the ground and drove it later on, the speedo showed zero. I ended up playing with a bunch of parameters to get the speed to read but still needs tweaking. I ended up adjusting the pull up resistor to disable, changed the output shaft inputs to 40 per rotation and used 150,000 for drive train rotations per mile. I also did a custom trans configuration inputting the stock TH400 gear ratios, it previously had TH700 selected. I'm guessing I'll tail my wife in her car at 30 mph to calibrate the speed. @NicD do you have any suggestions on this?

Next up was engine cooling, it was nice this weekend in the mid 70's so I was out in the garage running the car and noticed the engine was running warmer than usual and the fans seemed kind quiet. The Davies Craig controller is still controlling the fans, but what I found was the controller has one activation mode which I wired into the low-speed fan relay only. So, when the controller activates, I get low speed fan operation only. I do however have a manual switch wired into the high-speed relay for cool down at the track with the engine off, so I just went ahead and wired them all together for now so when the controller kicks on the fans, they both come on at full blast now. I'm tempted to wire in the individual relay grounds to the Haltech to maintain low and high-speed operation, but I can't really think of a reason why that would be beneficial. My other thought was to get rid of the DC controller altogether, wire the water pump into a DPO using a SSR for PWM control and then wire in the low/high speed relay grounds into DPO's and then I could maintain dual fan speeds all controlled by the Haltech.
What do you guys think, just leave them on the DC controller coming on at full speed or retain the low-speed function using the Haltech?
Reply
Old Apr 20, 2026 | 10:45 AM
  #244  
NicD's Avatar
7 Second Club
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,157
Likes: 659
From: Chandler, AZ
Default

Originally Posted by Black_Sunshine_99
I ended up playing with a bunch of parameters to get the speed to read but still needs tweaking. I ended up adjusting the pull up resistor to disable, changed the output shaft inputs to 40 per rotation and used 150,000 for drive train rotations per mile. I also did a custom trans configuration inputting the stock TH400 gear ratios, it previously had TH700 selected. I'm guessing I'll tail my wife in her car at 30 mph to calibrate the speed. @NicD do you have any suggestions on this?
I set wheel speeds on the freeway so I can get a decent bit of speed for more accuracy, something like 70 mph and set that as the calibration speed, then hold steady using a GPS app on my phone and click calibrate on the various sensors. Gear ratios aren't going to really do anything for you with a stalled TH400 so I usually just leave the actual Gear Ratio function and Gear Detection type disabled. Pull up should be off for a magnetic reluctor 2 wire sensor as it generates it's own voltage, pull up should be on for a 3 wire hall effect sensor. For the 2 wire sensors you will get to play with glitch filters and voltage arming thresholds to have a good signal. The built in help settings are a good start if you have a dirty signal.

Originally Posted by Black_Sunshine_99
Next up was engine cooling, it was nice this weekend in the mid 70's so I was out in the garage running the car and noticed the engine was running warmer than usual and the fans seemed kind quiet. The Davies Craig controller is still controlling the fans, but what I found was the controller has one activation mode which I wired into the low-speed fan relay only. So, when the controller activates, I get low speed fan operation only. I do however have a manual switch wired into the high-speed relay for cool down at the track with the engine off, so I just went ahead and wired them all together for now so when the controller kicks on the fans, they both come on at full blast now. I'm tempted to wire in the individual relay grounds to the Haltech to maintain low and high-speed operation, but I can't really think of a reason why that would be beneficial. My other thought was to get rid of the DC controller altogether, wire the water pump into a DPO using a SSR for PWM control and then wire in the low/high speed relay grounds into DPO's and then I could maintain dual fan speeds all controlled by the Haltech.
What do you guys think, just leave them on the DC controller coming on at full speed or retain the low-speed function using the Haltech?
So you are using a separate controller just for the engine fans? I would most definitely move those over to the Haltech for control. But then you mentioned water pump, I would never use an SSR to try to PWM a DC motor if it can't do at least a couple thousand Hz, and most SSRs can't do that at all. The Haltech DPOs can output up to 10kHz I believe, but no SSR is going to be doing that. I don't know what kind of Davis Craig pump you have but I know the brushless ones have the ability to use a standard PWM signal to control it with it's build in controller, not using an SSR to pulse the power going to it. I would be putting on a brushless pump for sure to control it with the Haltech.
Reply
Old Apr 20, 2026 | 12:37 PM
  #245  
Black_Sunshine_99's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
10 Year Member
Community Builder
Liked
Community Favorite
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,821
Likes: 810
From: Washington
Default

Originally Posted by NicD
I set wheel speeds on the freeway so I can get a decent bit of speed for more accuracy, something like 70 mph and set that as the calibration speed, then hold steady using a GPS app on my phone and click calibrate on the various sensors. Gear ratios aren't going to really do anything for you with a stalled TH400 so I usually just leave the actual Gear Ratio function and Gear Detection type disabled. Pull up should be off for a magnetic reluctor 2 wire sensor as it generates it's own voltage, pull up should be on for a 3 wire hall effect sensor. For the 2 wire sensors you will get to play with glitch filters and voltage arming thresholds to have a good signal. The built in help settings are a good start if you have a dirty signal.


So you are using a separate controller just for the engine fans? I would most definitely move those over to the Haltech for control. But then you mentioned water pump, I would never use an SSR to try to PWM a DC motor if it can't do at least a couple thousand Hz, and most SSRs can't do that at all. The Haltech DPOs can output up to 10kHz I believe, but no SSR is going to be doing that. I don't know what kind of Davis Craig pump you have but I know the brushless ones have the ability to use a standard PWM signal to control it with it's build in controller, not using an SSR to pulse the power going to it. I would be putting on a brushless pump for sure to control it with the Haltech.
Good to know on the speed, I'll see what I can do for the freeway, won't be 70mph but 60 mph is definitely doable.
Right now, the Davies Craig controller controls both the fans and the water pump, I was trying to not put too much on my plate with this project, so I opted to leave the DC controller in place for now since it works fine.
According to DC the controller for the water pump which mine is the EWP150, varies the voltage from 6v to full battery voltage and pulses the pump on and off based on temperature, see example below.
If could just wire the pump directly into the Haltech then that would be great, based on what I'm seeing on the DC website, the EWP150 is not brushless though.
I do have some 40amp relays on hand so I could put together a harness for the pump pretty easily, it only pulls 10 amps at full song.
Now if anything, I could really care less about the pulsing operation and would be fine just triggering it at full speed at a given temp with the Haltech.
So, I could use DPO's for low and high-speed fans and the pump relay, correct? I've got quite a few DPO's available between the ECU and display.
Would there be any point to retain the two-speed fan function?


Reply




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:42 PM.