Re-installing Incon twin turbos > please help
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From: SW Florida
Re-installing Incon twin turbos > please help Dug and myself had worked all day (12 looong hours of it) installing his new forged steel block motor in his car.
We have run into a couple of big problems: How the hell do you get the Incon manifolds (with turbos attached) up on to the heads after the engine is setting properly in it's mounts?
We did find out that the pass. side exhaust manifold/turbo assembly must be situated kinda up in-place before the engine is dropped into the mounts. If the engine is mounted first, the pass. side WILL NOT go in. Just no room from the top or bottom.
As far as the drivers side exhaust manifold/turbo assembly, it seems like the same situation as the pass. side. The problem with the drivers side is that the manifold/turbo assembly will not just stay in one place while the engine is being dropped. It just keeps falling down to the floor while we are trying to drop the engine in place.
Has anyone been able to replace either the pass. or the drivers side manifold /turbo assemblies while the engine is setting down on it's mounts?
BTW ... If the turbos were removed from the manfolds, I guess then the manifolds could be bolted up to the heads even after the engine is in it's mounts ... But, I find it damned near imposable to re-mount the turbos on the manifolds after the manifolds are attached to the heads.
Any help you may provide would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. We broke the O2 senser off in pass. side manifold.
That's now in a separate thread.
Thanks,
Ron
We have run into a couple of big problems: How the hell do you get the Incon manifolds (with turbos attached) up on to the heads after the engine is setting properly in it's mounts?
We did find out that the pass. side exhaust manifold/turbo assembly must be situated kinda up in-place before the engine is dropped into the mounts. If the engine is mounted first, the pass. side WILL NOT go in. Just no room from the top or bottom.
As far as the drivers side exhaust manifold/turbo assembly, it seems like the same situation as the pass. side. The problem with the drivers side is that the manifold/turbo assembly will not just stay in one place while the engine is being dropped. It just keeps falling down to the floor while we are trying to drop the engine in place.
Has anyone been able to replace either the pass. or the drivers side manifold /turbo assemblies while the engine is setting down on it's mounts?
BTW ... If the turbos were removed from the manfolds, I guess then the manifolds could be bolted up to the heads even after the engine is in it's mounts ... But, I find it damned near imposable to re-mount the turbos on the manifolds after the manifolds are attached to the heads.
Any help you may provide would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. We broke the O2 senser off in pass. side manifold.
That's now in a separate thread.Thanks,
Ron
Last edited by Tin Indian; Sep 12, 2004 at 09:17 AM.
DO you have header studs? They will help alot. I had a k-member when I did mine - that pass side slides right in and the drivers side you just have to pull the actuator. Unfortuantely, you had to notch it to get the passenger intake hose on. I guess it is all trade-offs, right?
FWIW, on Harlan's webiste he does make reference to jacking up the motor to get the stuff on.
-Geoff
FWIW, on Harlan's webiste he does make reference to jacking up the motor to get the stuff on.
-Geoff
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I installed the driverside manifolds/turbos without the actuators attached. The passenger side I had to have the actuator and compressor housings off to get it in. Engine in the car with PA K-member. Everything was on jackstands.
Don't bother trying to mount the turbos after the manifolds are in, you will never get to the bolts (tried it several times). Same thing with the pasenger side downpipe.
Gary
Don't bother trying to mount the turbos after the manifolds are in, you will never get to the bolts (tried it several times). Same thing with the pasenger side downpipe.
Gary
Last edited by red ws6 99; Sep 12, 2004 at 10:31 AM.
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Ron,
Say hi to Dug for me and I hope his cut isn't too bad. I have seen pictures of the BMR K-member in an LS1 and really think he should consider it. It looks like it would give him the room you guys are really needing at this time.
Todd
Say hi to Dug for me and I hope his cut isn't too bad. I have seen pictures of the BMR K-member in an LS1 and really think he should consider it. It looks like it would give him the room you guys are really needing at this time.
Todd
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From: SW Florida
Thanks folks ...
Since I'm complaining about everything else in this install, let me tell you something else:
The car is an M-6 ... Well, when we removed the engine, we unbolted it from the bellhousing. That left the bellhousing and trany still in the car. When we attempted to re-install the engine, there was no damned way posible to get the engine to line up properly with the transmission's input shaft (and it's spines). Bottom line, the parts just would not mate togather no matter how many times we attempted.
So, we had to pull the tranny and it's bellhousing ... That included pulling the BMR torque arm [and] the exhaust system. Why the exhaust? Well, do to the way the non-stock exhaust was made, and the way the driveshaft loop was welded to the BMR torque arm, the complte exhaust system had to come out in order to remove the driveshaft.
Needless to say, it was a big pain in the ***.
Also, removing that banjo fitting back behind the brake booster for the hyd clutch was no fun either. It has to be unhooked in order to remove the bellhousing (stainless wire braided clutch fluid line from the bellhousing is attached back in there).
Now .... I only hope the bellhousing / tranny can be slid properly into the pressure plate / clutch disk on the back of the engine when the time comes (we don't have a clutch alignment tool, but did get the clutch and pressure plate input shaft holes lined up as best we could when we bolted it all up to the back of the motor.
Not a fun job!
Since I'm complaining about everything else in this install, let me tell you something else:
The car is an M-6 ... Well, when we removed the engine, we unbolted it from the bellhousing. That left the bellhousing and trany still in the car. When we attempted to re-install the engine, there was no damned way posible to get the engine to line up properly with the transmission's input shaft (and it's spines). Bottom line, the parts just would not mate togather no matter how many times we attempted.
So, we had to pull the tranny and it's bellhousing ... That included pulling the BMR torque arm [and] the exhaust system. Why the exhaust? Well, do to the way the non-stock exhaust was made, and the way the driveshaft loop was welded to the BMR torque arm, the complte exhaust system had to come out in order to remove the driveshaft.
Needless to say, it was a big pain in the ***.
Also, removing that banjo fitting back behind the brake booster for the hyd clutch was no fun either. It has to be unhooked in order to remove the bellhousing (stainless wire braided clutch fluid line from the bellhousing is attached back in there).
Now .... I only hope the bellhousing / tranny can be slid properly into the pressure plate / clutch disk on the back of the engine when the time comes (we don't have a clutch alignment tool, but did get the clutch and pressure plate input shaft holes lined up as best we could when we bolted it all up to the back of the motor.
Not a fun job!
Originally Posted by WhiteDiamond
Ron,
Say hi to Dug for me and I hope his cut isn't too bad. I have seen pictures of the BMR K-member in an LS1 and really think he should consider it. It looks like it would give him the room you guys are really needing at this time.
Todd
Say hi to Dug for me and I hope his cut isn't too bad. I have seen pictures of the BMR K-member in an LS1 and really think he should consider it. It looks like it would give him the room you guys are really needing at this time.
Todd
When I tried to get my car together this spring, it turns out that the a-arms dropped my car three extra inches. I ended up pulling the kit off and putting long tubes on until I could figure out the ride height issues. I have it all straightened out now, but I am back with the stock a-arms and still need to notch it to get the kit to fit. I figure it will become a winter project again since I really wanted to drive the car again.
-Geoff
Depending on exactly where you are on the install now I would be pretty tempted to put the car on jack stands as high as you can get it, then drop the front suspension and the motor and lower them a bit on different jack stands, re-attach the trans, bolt the turbo manifolds up, then raise the entire assembly (trans, engine, suspension, manifolds) as one and bolt them up. That will save you a lot of time lining stiff up and will also allow you to run the manifold hoses a lot easier.
I dropped my trans/motor and all through the bottom of the car (granted the car was on a lift) and it only took me about 1.5 hours. If I hadn't had all of the problems with Raymer's motor then it would have probably taken about 2.5 or so hours to get everything switched and put back up.
Scott
I dropped my trans/motor and all through the bottom of the car (granted the car was on a lift) and it only took me about 1.5 hours. If I hadn't had all of the problems with Raymer's motor then it would have probably taken about 2.5 or so hours to get everything switched and put back up.
Scott
