Bolt-ons are finished, help me get blown
Bolt-ons are finished, help me get blown I have pretty much all of the bolt ons as of now, minus a SSRA and underdrive pulley. Suspension bolt ons are all done except a torque arm and shocks/springs. And of course a mild cam for the time being
Anyhow, I was originally going to go with nitrous, and then finalizing the drivetrain this winter, with a 12 bolt or 9 inch. The rest of the drivetrain is fine and upgraded. I don't think I really want my Camaro as a fulltime drag car, I'd be much happier with a killer street car, which is why I am now considering a blower. I'd like your guys opinions. Here are my goals for the car
I'd like it to be an 11 second street car in full street trim, minus maybe the tires. I don't care so much as to try to be the first 6 second LS1 or anything, as I find a powerful street car more appealing than a gutted out trailor queen. I think a Procharger would be what I want. I don't care to have a huge turbo setup pushing out like 20 PSI or something like that. If I had around 500 rwhp/rwtq with the motor and a blower I would be happy. However, should I get a blower, I would not be able to get a 12 bolt or 9 inch until a little later, maybe sometime early to mid 2005. How long would a stock 10 bolt last, that has around 30k miles with stock 3.42s, with a blower? I wouldn't be making any redline drops with slicks on, but there will be some abuse on it. Would it be worth it to get a rearend cover, or should I just stick to the nitrous with a forged drivetrain instead?
Anyhow, I was originally going to go with nitrous, and then finalizing the drivetrain this winter, with a 12 bolt or 9 inch. The rest of the drivetrain is fine and upgraded. I don't think I really want my Camaro as a fulltime drag car, I'd be much happier with a killer street car, which is why I am now considering a blower. I'd like your guys opinions. Here are my goals for the car
I'd like it to be an 11 second street car in full street trim, minus maybe the tires. I don't care so much as to try to be the first 6 second LS1 or anything, as I find a powerful street car more appealing than a gutted out trailor queen. I think a Procharger would be what I want. I don't care to have a huge turbo setup pushing out like 20 PSI or something like that. If I had around 500 rwhp/rwtq with the motor and a blower I would be happy. However, should I get a blower, I would not be able to get a 12 bolt or 9 inch until a little later, maybe sometime early to mid 2005. How long would a stock 10 bolt last, that has around 30k miles with stock 3.42s, with a blower? I wouldn't be making any redline drops with slicks on, but there will be some abuse on it. Would it be worth it to get a rearend cover, or should I just stick to the nitrous with a forged drivetrain instead?
I think it's just hard to justify, to me, spending close to, if not more than, 6 grand for a complete install of this, with tuning and all that jazz. For 6 grand I could make more power on the bottle and have everything in the car bulletproof. Even without the bottle, good heads, a giant cam, a 12 bolt/9 inch would probably get me the same results, but being cheaper. Are there any cheaper ways get get FI? I'd rather stay away from the STS if I can, unless somebody can persuade me otherwise I guess
fi is never cheap imho, and theres alot more to maintain plus its more than just getting a supercharger or turbo alot more fuel is needed, 6 grand would be a descent start but you wont touch a complete setup (fuel system which is needed for a safe setup, supercharger/turbo, tuning) for under 4k. these are my opinions but hey if you do go fi welcome aboard!!!
later
Gary
later
Gary
I'm a little over $4k right now.
Procharger with 42 lb injectors $2500
SDCE 8 Rib Kit $650
Walbro Pump $100
ATI Super Damper $400
ATI Race Bypass $250
OBX FMIC $250
It comes out to $4150
However, I do not have a forged engine which I will need
$3k-4K
Now some of these parts I listed aren't really necessary, if you just want to make 5-7 lbs of boost, you can keep your 6 rib design and subtract the SDCE and the race bypass is not necessary either. You can also keep the stock intercoolers if you just want a modest setup.
Procharger with 42 lb injectors $2500
SDCE 8 Rib Kit $650
Walbro Pump $100
ATI Super Damper $400
ATI Race Bypass $250
OBX FMIC $250
It comes out to $4150
However, I do not have a forged engine which I will need
$3k-4KNow some of these parts I listed aren't really necessary, if you just want to make 5-7 lbs of boost, you can keep your 6 rib design and subtract the SDCE and the race bypass is not necessary either. You can also keep the stock intercoolers if you just want a modest setup.
What he said^ and Welcome to the FI board. 11's with a blower and your current combo will be easy and not that hard to maintain. Yes the 10 bolt will go, but what can you do....just make sure you are thinking of it before you sidestep the clutch or dump it at 5000 with tires on....just ease on the gas and let the blower kill the car you are racing and not the clutch dump of hell lol. I'm still enjoying my 10 bolt too(A4 tho)
Try to find a used ATI kit, get the SDCE kit for reliability and some 42.5 injectors and run 11's all day long on radials or ET streets for track duty.
And if you do consider a STS kit, they are priced great, and should work awesome with a 6 speed/stock rearend as the ones i've seen on video leave soft but then haul *** past the 60ft mark, and look to be pretty easy to install too.
But the most important aspect of stock engine/FI is TUNING get the best you can find.
J
Try to find a used ATI kit, get the SDCE kit for reliability and some 42.5 injectors and run 11's all day long on radials or ET streets for track duty.
And if you do consider a STS kit, they are priced great, and should work awesome with a 6 speed/stock rearend as the ones i've seen on video leave soft but then haul *** past the 60ft mark, and look to be pretty easy to install too.
But the most important aspect of stock engine/FI is TUNING get the best you can find.
J
