All in all nothing went my way.........


I was using my 28x12.5x15 et streets, at 14psi

Doing sufficient burnouts......had the hals at back set between 6-8, really didn't make much difference.......had the fronts at 3........

1st pass of the day, I made an 1/8th mile and shut it down, this was the best pass of the day......

Trans brake wasn't happening, traction wasn't there.....

I was off the footbrake all day and it was still spinning for about 50-60ft......

Best 60' of the day was a 1.59 (spinning)
1/8th was 6.66
MPH was 106.7

That was the best pass of my day.......

I have picked up about 12mph from what I can tell so far over my old 1/8 times, so that should put me in the 130's w/this crap converter


I lost the blower belt 2nd pass out.......
took 30 mins to change........
I lost the blower belt 3rd pass out........

The car was fine on the street, was getting on it before we loaded it on the trailoer, but it looks like my idler pulley makes the belt ride too close to the edge of the crank pulley causing it to be aggressive on that side of the belt, so I need to space that out some to make it perfect......that belt had the ribs on it, but one side was completely chewed apart, the other belt had bad scarring from the idler on top, and the ribs were chewed apart.......I'll get some pics up if I can later on.......

Back to back passes the belt let out as soon as I clicked into 3rd, car literally felt like it shut off......I did run an 11.0 once again on one of those runs......

One day during the week, I'll space the **** out, put a fresh belt on it, and go beat it up some more........after that, I'm saving more $ for a better converter, and I also need to get my damn rims screwed so I can run 10lbs in them......

 

like i said at the track it was a good starting point. no where to go but faster from here. now get a real converter in there

 

Yea, I can only imagine if I got it to hook off the T-brake....

I would see 6.3-6.4 1/8th mile times.......with maybe a mph or two more......

Low 10's, high 9's area

And bill, your car weighs a lot more than 3700lbs......good times today by the way

 

Damn... I hate when it all seems to go wrong like that..

At least the 1/8th mile #s made you happy.

130s+

 

Yeah you can see your belt being worn funny in your F1 picture that you posted a few days back.

70%of it is normal and 30% is worn. Should have clued you or speed inc to the misalignment of the set up. Why didn't they correct it when installing the F1 and FMIC?



You can see it in that pic.
Just a bit of bad luck, I'm sure you will have it tweeked before your next track outing.

 

Yea, all I can visibly notice is that the idler makes the belt ride towards the edge of the crank pulley, this is what caused excessive wear on that side.......as for the idler scarring the top of the belt, I dunno.....

The belt load was around 14, right under the yellow slash.....I always tighten down that 90mm after I got the belt on the entire setup and loaded, thats the correct way to do it right? I think I might have to space that out slightly though....

Its seen A LOT of dyno pulls too....

I took it on the street a few nights ago well into a 3rd gear pull and it was fine, I did the same before I loaded it this morning......

 

hmmm I have my tension set at around 17. I too do the idler like you so I can't help there..
My belt has seen a lot of miles, and quite a few track passes and it still looks awesome. The yellow printing on the NAPA belt is still very legible. I do know when I get the belt on all the pulleys it will not line up correctly on the idler and will have to have someone take some tension off the belt up top while I nudge the belt onto the correct path on the idler...pretty sure it would line itself up once started but I do it anyway.

You'll get it though, your car will make some wicked passes real soon.
J

 

Yea, its most likely done for the year.......

I'll get it out early spring for sure.......I'll just workout the bugs over winter and get a better converter in it

 

Its the F1 w/ the reverse rotaion bracket. We tried everyting to stop the belt from killing its self.... Nothing worked. Not even Cogs.

 

I have an excellent tensioner setup, the middle idler is just misaligned, this setup saw 5 hours of dyno time, about 20 wot passes on the street, and then lasted 2 runs at the track.......

So I just need a lil tweaking

 

Again, congrats on the times and hope to see the car up and running. Ill have some times the moment I get the car back.

Can you fit a f1r in that location?

 

Yes, I'm pretty sure it fits

The only thing I don't like about this belt setup is that it takes about 30 mins to change a damn belt

 

yep I know, i've been with bos from across the country throughout this whole situation. I tried the cogs first, then he tried the cogs(sorry about that bos ) Both were dismal failures, my cog belt wouldn't last past the tree.

But the reverse rotation bracket??? Is that something new?? I know we both have the steel bracket right??

I just can't believe even now that people are still having issues with the SDCE set up. Mine works flawlessly. Way past the vigorous testing bos has done, and the ol NAPA belt is doing great with no abnormal wear at all. I've been to the track about 15-20 times since it's been on the car, I daily drive it 50 miles a day,with daily WOT blasts to and from work with no trouble, I've probably just jinxed myself but, it's the best thing i've done for my quest for boost...other than going with a FMIC.

You'll get it bos, keep us posted.
J

 

All I need is to space out the 90mm idler a little more towards the engine....

 

Screwin A Tire Or Running Them At 10 Psi Arent Gonna Help You're Problems!
You Need To Get The Suspension Dialed In!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 2k In Suspension And You Dont Do A Damn Thing With Them! Its Not The Tires, Its Not The Psi And Its Not The Damn Screws.
We Got A Car That Goes Mid 1.3's On Nitrous Launchin On The Break On The Same Tire! With Less Suspension!

10 Psi Is Only Gonna Hurt You're 60 Not Improve It.

But What Do I Know

 

i'd soften your Hal's to 3 and check your torque arm angle. I agree with the guy above me, play with your suspension and get that dialed in.

 

good job Dont worry it'll all be worth it after the converter and a bit more work

 

Those set ups take a lot of tweaking. I lost 3 belts with only 5 miles or so on them. I think I have it right now. The good thing is they work! I had to space out 90mm pulley with a .90 shimm and had to remove a .65 shimm on top spacer to get it lined up. I still have not opened it my car all the way up > I don't have time to lose another belt... Soon the fear will be gone Good luck with your tweaking.

 

Where did you place that shim on the 90mm......do you have any pics of what it looks like, I can't seem to find the right "washer" to fit over that horseshoe shape piece that fits in the bracket, I just need to move it slightly towards the engine, then it will be overall perfect.....

Another thing I noticed though........looking from the top, the spring tensioner pulley is lined up perfect w/how the 90mm sits, so if I move the 90mm out, whats going to happen with the top spring one in its same location?

If I can't make it work, I'm gonna bring it to the man sikora The car is tuned so we can do some real testing after little tweaks.......I want the belt to last WOT after WOT after WOT

Haider, you are right, I need to get it dialed in, I wish I had the $, time, truck and trailor to do it every weekend......I thought having the shocks softer in the back would hurt 60's? Like I said before, I need to get it consistently working before I can get out there and really lay into it.........

 

I replied to your pm silver, how big is that washer compared to the gold one thats used w/the bolt that goes into the backside of it