BOV vs Surge Valve.
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BOV vs Surge Valve.
Ive heard someone mention that a BOV doesnt work as well as a Surge Valve... I was under the impression that they were basically the same thing. Anyone know which is better and why?
I was planning on running a good BOV with my D1SC.... but if its not a good idea Ill stick to a surge valve.
TIA.
I was planning on running a good BOV with my D1SC.... but if its not a good idea Ill stick to a surge valve.
TIA.
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I ran both on my d1 to help with cruise buck, I ran the race ready on the drivers side and two surgevalves welded butt to butt on the passenger side. Soon as I did this I had no buck and it held 12psi instead of 8 or 9. Best advice is to do a fmic setup and run the ati race ready, all you should need then. Hope that helps and good luck
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Originally Posted by PurEvl
I ran both on my d1 to help with cruise buck, I ran the race ready on the drivers side and two surgevalves welded butt to butt on the passenger side. Soon as I did this I had no buck and it held 12psi instead of 8 or 9. Best advice is to do a fmic setup and run the ati race ready, all you should need then. Hope that helps and good luck
Thanks man.. you and frcefed98 have been a big help with my questions.
#4
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Myslef and Jeremy (FRCEFED were both running BOV's and we both sold them.... we didnt like the chattering/chirping it was making at cruise.... didnt sound normal...... we both went back with a race style bypass valve.....
From my understanding a bypass should be venting at all times until it comes under boost and then should slam shut...... thats what i want....... a constan venting at idle and cruise..... the BOV wasnt doing that... it was chirping and wasnt venting at idle....
Kyle
From my understanding a bypass should be venting at all times until it comes under boost and then should slam shut...... thats what i want....... a constan venting at idle and cruise..... the BOV wasnt doing that... it was chirping and wasnt venting at idle....
Kyle
#6
I have been in the market for a ATI race ready. I have a ten lb. pulley with the P-1SC and the SD bracket. But I am only registering 6.5 lbs. of boost. I think the ATI Race ready will help. I am also going to a FMIC in the next month and a half. Let me know where I could pick up a race ready, and how much. Thanks in advance.
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#8
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
nasty ta is correct, they perform two different functions.
Kyle
#9
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Originally Posted by redline.inc
I have been in the market for a ATI race ready. I have a ten lb. pulley with the P-1SC and the SD bracket. But I am only registering 6.5 lbs. of boost. I think the ATI Race ready will help. I am also going to a FMIC in the next month and a half. Let me know where I could pick up a race ready, and how much. Thanks in advance.
FYI there is no such thing as a 10LB pulley....... every car see's diferent boost with different MODS........ how big in inches the blower pulley and crank pulley... that way you can know how fast you are spinning gthe blower..... The race ready might help some as it did with purevil..... but he is also spinning the blower faster and on a built motor..... 6.5psi on a stock motor and a built motor are two totally different animals... The race ready is around $400..
Kyle
#10
Thanks Nasty. I am getting my motor done right now. I blew a head gasket, so my warranty company is giving me 4,000 to fix. I had the stock 7lb on the car then I had Rick @ Synergy order me a smaller pulley from SD concepts. But with the smaller pulley, I am now registering less boost. But the wierd thing is that it pulls a lot harder.
#11
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The MONDO BYPASS was a cheaper alternative to go with compared to the ATI race ready....which was my first choice but the wallet decided against it. I love the way it sounds....car sounds like a jet cruising down the road/highway. No chattering, just venting all the time until you get into the gas a lil and boost comes on, the its go time.
The vortech was 239 from jegs. I am sure you can find a better deal tho, the ATI race ready was 100 bucks more from the cheapest place I could find it.
JMONDO BYPASS MOVIE
The vortech was 239 from jegs. I am sure you can find a better deal tho, the ATI race ready was 100 bucks more from the cheapest place I could find it.
JMONDO BYPASS MOVIE
#13
JMONDO BYPASS MOVIE[/QUOTE]
By any chance, do you have a vid of how it sounds outside the car. The vid was great. Thanks.
By any chance, do you have a vid of how it sounds outside the car. The vid was great. Thanks.
#17
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Kyle I PM'ed you this info a while back
933-8D103-001 Maxflo Mondo Bypass Valve $239.99
That's the jegs PN, I bought mine on jegsdotcom
You will have to buy the flange from Vortech, but they are only 11 bucks and 22 bucks next day air so thats a good deal.
PSJ has the MONDO BYPASS on his car too....
933-8D103-001 Maxflo Mondo Bypass Valve $239.99
That's the jegs PN, I bought mine on jegsdotcom
You will have to buy the flange from Vortech, but they are only 11 bucks and 22 bucks next day air so thats a good deal.
PSJ has the MONDO BYPASS on his car too....
#20
Some info here with a picture.
http://home.earthlink.net/~micfly/bypass_valves.htm
Are you guys running closed loop like this example with the ATI?
I'm still a noob and will be installing an ATI D-1SC. It makes good sense IMO if you don't like the noise.
http://home.earthlink.net/~micfly/bypass_valves.htm
Are you guys running closed loop like this example with the ATI?
I'm still a noob and will be installing an ATI D-1SC. It makes good sense IMO if you don't like the noise.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 11-19-2004 at 08:55 PM.