Launching a Turbo with a TH400
It's expensive to build an 8-second car, but come on folks 100 GRAND. No way.
For 100 grand you can build a super street car. 8 second street car, expect around 30-35 tops not including cost of car.
There are people on this board with 50k in THIER setup and they are running high 9's.
But I don't want to argue with you, as when this post goes away, this will probably never come up again
My personal preference isnt Rossler for converters, but its just my preference

I always prefered the ring of D.H. Sound more professional, ha ha.
Spoken from someone who has clearly never built a fast car before.You could easily have 50K wrapped up in a car before you even get down to the motor. Cage work? Suspension work? Chute? Chassis certification? NHRA license? Fire suppression? 25.4/25.5 cage work if you go faster than 8.49? How about the trans, and freshening it once a season? Converter? Rear end? Fuel system?
30-35K tops maybe if you take a light 80's monte carlo, stuff a junk yard 454 in it in front of a home built glide, throw some big slicks and a ton of nitrous at it and hope it doesn't blow up, and end up with a car that runs worth **** on the streets, but to build a heavy forced induction small block car to run into the 8's takes a lot more money than you think. If it was as easy/cheap as you make it out to be, you'd see a LOT more street cars running 8's out there.
Spoken from someone who has clearly never built a fast car before.You could easily have 50K wrapped up in a car before you even get down to the motor. Cage work? Suspension work? Chute? Chassis certification? NHRA license? Fire suppression? 25.4/25.5 cage work if you go faster than 8.49? How about the trans, and freshening it once a season? Converter? Rear end? Fuel system?
30-35K tops maybe if you take a light 80's monte carlo, stuff a junk yard 454 in it in front of a home built glide, throw some big slicks and a ton of nitrous at it and hope it doesn't blow up, and end up with a car that runs worth **** on the streets, but to build a heavy forced induction small block car to run into the 8's takes a lot more money than you think. If it was as easy/cheap as you make it out to be, you'd see a LOT more street cars running 8's out there.
You're right. Stuff a 10 point cage in your stock car, a big motor, and you're ready to run 8's
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

Don't know about well within. Havn't figured it up and really don't want to.
Should have another one in the 8's as well for less than $50k. In mods that is. Including the price of the car puts me well over.
It can be done but you have to do almost everything yourself and have help from good suppliers.
Look at Harlan's car. He doesn't have much in his shortblock (Stock LS1 block/crank, stock main caps, good rods/pistons) $3K?, ported 6.0 heads ($3K?), really nice homebuilt headers (with Burns merge collectors $$$$) $1.5-2K in parts, (2) $900 turbos (approx), Nice intercooler ($1500-2K), BigStuff3 $2.5K, powerglide $1500, Neil Chance convertor $1500+, rear end setup $2.5-3K, fuel system $1500-2K, stuff adds up fast and there is plenty more than that to add up.... I bet he has $35K in mods plus the car thinking conservatively. Real conservatively.
To build a good car with what you want to do you may as well clone what another person has done and avoid the pitfalls they went thru and save $$$ at the same time.
Weight reduction is something you should concentrate on big time. Using a big single turbo will cut down on fabrication work, one less wastegate, less overall weight and overall complexity. It will also be laggier. A set of those out of the box AFR 225's on a stock LS1 block/crank would probably be a good foundation on a budget. Harlan's stock block/crank shortblock has over 30-40 passes on it and still has good oil pressure he said.
Good luck on your build. Wish I had the scribble ($$$).
You're right. Stuff a 10 point cage in your stock car, a big motor, and you're ready to run 8's

Look at Harlan's car. He doesn't have much in his shortblock (Stock LS1 block/crank, stock main caps, good rods/pistons) $3K?, ported 6.0 heads ($3K?), really nice homebuilt headers (with Burns merge collectors $$$$) $1.5-2K in parts, (2) $900 turbos (approx), Nice intercooler ($1500-2K), BigStuff3 $2.5K, powerglide $1500, Neil Chance convertor $1500+, rear end setup $2.5-3K, fuel system $1500-2K, stuff adds up fast and there is plenty more than that to add up.... I bet he has $35K in mods plus the car thinking conservatively. Real conservatively.
To build a good car with what you want to do you may as well clone what another person has done and avoid the pitfalls they went thru and save $$$ at the same time.
Weight reduction is something you should concentrate on big time. Using a big single turbo will cut down on fabrication work, one less wastegate, less overall weight and overall complexity. It will also be laggier. A set of those out of the box AFR 225's on a stock LS1 block/crank would probably be a good foundation on a budget. Harlan's stock block/crank shortblock has over 30-40 passes on it and still has good oil pressure he said.
Good luck on your build. Wish I had the scribble ($$$).

Thanks for the input. I have some resources at hand in the form of some knowledgeable people, this board, my tuning ability (although I will learn Big Stuff 3 much like I learned ls1 edit), fabricators, and a shop. Initially high 8s will be the goal but then who knows. I may decide to take the car off the street eventually but right now that will not happen so high 8s is what I'm shooting for now.
I'm sorry, but a bolt on LT1 doesn't give you experience to talk about this stuff to guys who have DONE IT.

That's what I thought.

I think this is officially OT now.
I'm sorry, but a bolt on LT1 doesn't give you experience to talk about this stuff to guys who have DONE IT.
Mods:
Motor:
TR224/224/.563/.563/112 Cam $429.99
JWIS Timing Chain $149.99
SLP Manual Fan control switch $69.99
Hypertech 160* Thermostat $48.99
Comp Cams Hi-Tech One-Piece Chromemoly pushrods $132.99
Comp Cams 26918 Conical Spring $159.99
Comp Cams Titanium Retainers $169.99
Cloyes Hex-A-Just Adjustable Timing Gears $149.99
LS1 Camshaft Installation gasket set $58.99
Taylor Thundervolt 50 spark plug wires $69.99
10% Underdriven ATI Superdampener $479.99
NGK TR55-IX Iridium spark plugs $55.92
Direct Flo Lid $125.00
Holley Powershot Airfilter $46.99
Canton Road Race Oil Pan $575.00
Canton Mecca Oil Filter $75.00
Canton Oil Thermostat. $172.50
Setrab Oil Cooler $204.00
APE Ported/Blueprinted/Coated oil pump. $175.00
All of the above plumbed with -12 Aeroquip stainless lines using only Canton and Aeroquip fittings. $250.00
HP Tuners $500.00
New Corvette O2 sensors (don't require extension to work with Long tubes so they are a little more accurate than factory sensors with extensions) $175.00
Exhaust:
Grotyohann 1 3/4" Headers with (2) O2 sensor bungs per collector (for wideband) and V-bolt clamps. $650.00
Custom 3" Y-Pipe with 3-4" Flowmaster collector. Y-pipe Attached using V-bolt Clamps at all connections $500.00
Custom 4" Mufflex performance Mandrel Bent exhaust with Borla XR-1 Racing Muffler. $700.00
Driveline:
Moser 9" Rear axle. 4.10 Gears. 35 spline gun drilled/star flanged axles, spool, aluminum center section, Chris Alstons chassisworks fill plug/drain plug. Spring mounts modified with GC Threaded perches tig welded on. Spohn Control arm re-location brackets Tig Welded on. Painted in POR-15. (Black) $3,000.00
Ram 910 Clutch with 2800lb pressure plate. $459.00
Ram SFI approved billet flywheel $274.99
Mcleod adjustable master cylinder $306.99
GM145 slave cyl $129.99
Pro-5.0 Shifter $179.99
Momo Shift ****. $50.00
Chassis/Suspension:
LG Motorsports Single Adjustable Control Arms $199.00
LG Motorsports Single Adjustable Panhard Rod (trackbar) $179.00
Koni Double Adjustable Shocks (all four corners) $1,199.00
Ground Control Coilovers all four corners (550F/150R) $425.00
1LE Swaybars (front and rear) $275.00
Spohn performance adjustable crossmember mounted torque arm. Heim Joint. $390.00
Fuel System:
Custom Nasty performance Fabricated sumped fuel tank. Custom built to my specs (To give additional clearance for 4" Exhaust and Ford 9" Axle when lowered) using a fuel safe 2 1/2" filler inlet (standard is 1 1/4" bung without rollover protection, this gives the safety of a rollover protection valve and larger tube to allow for faster re-fueling.) (2) -8 (rollover protection check valved) Vent lines plumbed with Aeroquip hose to outside of framerail with K&N Breathers. $850.00
Fuel Safe Aircraft Style Remote Mount Flush Cap to allow use of 2 1/2" Fill Tube $173.75
Brakes:
Earls Stainless Brake lines $119.95
Hawk HPS Pads $151.98
Thunder Racing Line Lock Kit $215.00
SLP Weld on Sub frame connectors - Tig Welded $229.95
Wheels/Tires:
Nitto 555R2 tires (P275/40/ZR17) $500.00
Extreme Motorsports Chrome Z06 Wheels (17x9.5" all around) $1,299.80
Blizzaks on stock Chrome wheels. $500.00
Interior:
Speed Inc. Lightweight Carpet (Brand new, haven't installed it yet) $269.99
Autometer Quick Lite $168.97
Exterior:
Factory Camaro SS hood. $1,200.00
Total: $18,872.65
You spend money like a trailer park lottery winner.................on stupid, useless ****.






