Lots of Boost Stock Displacement?
I have done some research and yes I have used the search. But I want to know how to get a 347 to handle 16 to 18lbs of boost.
I am planning on building 346/347(what ever it comes out to be) Here is my goal. 750 to 800 to the ground with alky injec. Here are a few ?'s
1. Will stock crank hold that much power. I I have it is good to 1000rwhp but can some people give me some examples of people doing it.
2. Will alum block with stock sleevs(machined of course) hold 16lbs? Will the cylinder walls stand up to that kind of pressure and how reliably?
3.Will 205 AFR O ringed be my best bet?
4. I head about bigger ARP studs will that be needed? more info please.
5.Will I need billet main caps?
Sorry for all the ?'s but need to find out for sure before i start building it. Any suggestions as far as 347 build up are appreciated.
<----752rwhp, T400
2. Will alum block with stock sleevs(machined of course) hold 16lbs? Will the cylinder walls stand up to that kind of pressure and how reliably?
Yes
3.Will 205 AFR O ringed be my best bet?
AFR's sound good, not sure if everyone would agree about o-ringing
4. I head about bigger ARP studs will that be needed? more info please.
I would get really good head studs
5.Will I need billet main caps?
No
crank will hold around 1500 horses for at least one season, y2khawk here ran several 170mph passes with the stock crank, and it didnt break
id just used the stock sleaves if your only wanting 800, it has been done alot.
the afr 205's will be a good choice with their thick deck height
i djust use an mls gasket and forget the oringing
you can get away with the standard arp head studs or go with a super strong arp stud
stock caps will be fine, billet arnt needed
2. Yes
3. Dunno yet, 6.0L heads here
4. No
5. No
All answers based on my experience on my setup
8.29@167, 8.52@171 3350 lbs
show off......
Kyle
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I'm doing 752rwhp, t400, A1 head studs, 6.0 MLS head gaskets (followed Matt), and 21.5 psi. At this point I would need to pulley down or go cog to hit higher power levels. My YSi-Trim is equivalent to a 78mm single turbo setup. But I'd have to go to a really small blower pulley. But I'm just saying that there is more in it. Stock displacement has a lot of potential. For an all out drag I would go LS2 stock bore block + forged crank that is around stock.
FYI im 8.87:1 370 iron block and going for 800+ to the wheels with a PTE-88.
Kyle
Mild Port LS6 Heads
ARP Head Studs
9.25 Compression
14 PSI
Alchy Injection
730RWHP/740RWTQ
Was running 16psi to get those numbers. After cam change, same numbers achieved on 14psi.
Mild Port LS6 Heads
ARP Head Studs
9.25 Compression
14 PSI
Alchy Injection
730RWHP/740RWTQ
Was running 16psi to get those numbers. After cam change, same numbers achieved on 14psi.

Kyle
) Also HOw much does O ringing cost? I would rather have too much safety than not enough. Also the general consensus is I just need regular ARP head studs?
Jim, I'm thinking Harlan was 1000-1050rwhp but that's just me (Dynojet 248). I think he did hit a Eddy dyno once and if he saw over 1000 on there well then it was... more on a 248. Either it's extremely impressive.
Jim, I'm thinking Harlan was 1000-1050rwhp but that's just me (Dynojet 248). I think he did hit a Eddy dyno once and if he saw over 1000 on there well then it was... more on a 248. Either it's extremely impressive.
To go 170mph at 3400ish it take 1250-1300hp to the tires.
Take a look at your old mph and and weight and plug into any decent calculator an be enlightened
Dave
Blackbelt,
If you going boosted I would stick with a stock block and crank with a good set or rods and pistons. Its been done a ton of time and is the most cost effective and reliable way to do it. Boost level will be 16ish depending on your power adder. the GM MLS gaskets are more than capable of holding that level of boost.



