Bottom end LS-1.....what can it take?
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From: ohio, north carolina
Bottom end LS-1.....what can it take? Hey fellas,
I have done a lot of research on other boards, but wanted to see what a lot of you guys have experienced personally?
For those who have added boost to their setups......how much can the LS-1 take? I know some have 500, 550 and even 600 rwhp on an unforged bottom end..... what is considered safe? I have heard many opinions, but what y'all experienced?
If you don't want to post here, feel free to pm me..... thanks for any input.
-Marko
I have done a lot of research on other boards, but wanted to see what a lot of you guys have experienced personally?
For those who have added boost to their setups......how much can the LS-1 take? I know some have 500, 550 and even 600 rwhp on an unforged bottom end..... what is considered safe? I have heard many opinions, but what y'all experienced?
If you don't want to post here, feel free to pm me..... thanks for any input.
-Marko
honestly..there is no safe
mileage..tuning..current abuse all affect how long the bottom end will hold...sort of like the rear end. some people launch hard all day with them...others, all it takes is one launch.
mileage..tuning..current abuse all affect how long the bottom end will hold...sort of like the rear end. some people launch hard all day with them...others, all it takes is one launch.
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From: Castro Valley, CA
I posted a poll on this not long ago:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/292721-poll-my-stock-bottom-end-lives-rwhp.html
There is definitely hope above 533 rwhp, but you'd better have a good tuner. And even that might not help... it just seems like there's some luck involved, too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/292721-poll-my-stock-bottom-end-lives-rwhp.html
There is definitely hope above 533 rwhp, but you'd better have a good tuner. And even that might not help... it just seems like there's some luck involved, too.
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From: ohio, north carolina
Originally Posted by RW99
I posted a poll on this not long ago:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292721
There is definitely hope above 533 rwhp, but you'd better have a good tuner. And even that might not help... it just seems like there's some luck involved, too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292721
There is definitely hope above 533 rwhp, but you'd better have a good tuner. And even that might not help... it just seems like there's some luck involved, too.
I have a couple of buds that have 530 and 550 rwhp on a stock bottom....I'm lookin' for 520 to 550 for now and when that gets boring I'll bump it up to 600 and blow it up.
On the other boards that I'm on....many don't respond because they are already forged and don't like to air dirty laundry which is why I assume not everyone responded to your post (like mine).
Anyone else?
-marko
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From: ohio, north carolina
Originally Posted by cablebandit
600 is safe..just got to have spot on tune
Most of y'all running w/ wide bands?
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From: The point of no return...
Why not just forge it and get it over with? I never understand why anyone would want to take the risk. It'll cost about 2700 bucks to "forge it and forget it". Please don't take this as a flame or anything, just trying to figure out why you don't want to forge it.
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Originally Posted by WS-Sick
Why not just forge it and get it over with? I never understand why anyone would want to take the risk. It'll cost about 2700 bucks to "forge it and forget it". Please don't take this as a flame or anything, just trying to figure out why you don't want to forge it.
i myself though about just sticking with the stock ls1 bottom end but i know how i am and how my foot is and i would never be able to hold back...untill it would blow...so i saved myself and the trouble and just went all forged iron block...
its all a gamble with stock bottom end with forced induction...save up and do it right once...rather then pay for it in the long run..
$2700, to forge.... wow, that must be nice. I was quoted that much and more on labor alone. I don't have the time to do alot of things myself, nor do i have the tools or experience level for that sort of thing. If you can find a way to forge my car, turnkey, with my limited experience for $2700, or even $4000 I would be amazed. My heads and cam package was more than that, and with chromoly pushrods, new timing chain, and gasket kit that put over 3k easy on just parts! I'm just saying that I have never seen a deal like that, or else I would have done it back then. I would be really interested in forging if it's possible for that sort of price, assuming I could even figure out how to pull the engine myself.
Last edited by 99Daytona500; Apr 13, 2005 at 07:17 PM.
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From: The point of no return...
I understand where you are coming from. I don't have much experience at all either when it comes to doing the work myself. https://www.horsepowerengineering.co...products_id=61
http://www.texas-speed.com/item_deta...?ProductID=346
Those engines can get you started and ought to support your power goals. Installation may be expensive where you live, but if you are shooting for 600rwhp I would advise you to just be patient and do everything right the first time anyways.
http://www.texas-speed.com/item_deta...?ProductID=346
Those engines can get you started and ought to support your power goals. Installation may be expensive where you live, but if you are shooting for 600rwhp I would advise you to just be patient and do everything right the first time anyways.
FORGE IT! Look at my sig. ---> Just blew my motor tonight with only 528rwhp/605rwtq. That was with perfect A/F, timing right on, only 2.5* of (false) knock and spraying methanol from 3lbs up. It's funny because like your friend said, I was going to keep going until I reached 600rwhp/680ish rwtq.
I'm doing coated pistons, rings, bearings and ARP Rod bolts. I only plan on spinning this motor to 5800-6000rpm (it peaks at 5200rpm) so the rods should be fine. Stock cam, rods, timing chain, oil pump, head bolts (but new.) Should be good for new numbers to come! I'll do the complete build-up when I plan on putting down over 750rwhp with a big single or twins (probably twins.) Thats at least a good two or three years away though (hopefully, please God don't let it feel slow after only one season.
)
I'm doing coated pistons, rings, bearings and ARP Rod bolts. I only plan on spinning this motor to 5800-6000rpm (it peaks at 5200rpm) so the rods should be fine. Stock cam, rods, timing chain, oil pump, head bolts (but new.) Should be good for new numbers to come! I'll do the complete build-up when I plan on putting down over 750rwhp with a big single or twins (probably twins.) Thats at least a good two or three years away though (hopefully, please God don't let it feel slow after only one season.
) Thread Starter
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From: ohio, north carolina
Originally Posted by WS-Sick
Why not just forge it and get it over with? I never understand why anyone would want to take the risk. It'll cost about 2700 bucks to "forge it and forget it". Please don't take this as a flame or anything, just trying to figure out why you don't want to forge it.
4 sets of rims, spec III clutch, flywheel, slave, stingers, cat-less, vararam, ls-6 intake, TWO different H/C packages, LS-1 edit tune, ripper shifter.......the list goes on and on....... plus the procharger....... I really don't want to think how much $$$ i spent..... I know if i get it forged first, I would be short on getting the blower installed....
This way, i can blow it up and I would have to get forged. Sounds dumb to some, but the wify is gonna want some mods soon if i spend any more money on the vette......she is already bitchin' about gettin' some rims....LOL
There's two sides to this. One side would rather boost it now, have fun while it lasts and worry about it when it blows, then you have to forge it anways. And maybe boosting now will allow some time to save up for forging if/when it blows. The other side says, make the sacrifice, spend the money and do it right the first time by forging first. I agree with both sides. it just depends on some people's financial situation and goals. If they can make it a little longer, they could do both, but everyone wants to have their toy right now, including me. I personally would probably wait until I could afford both at the same time. The FI setup you get all depends on what the motor can handle, and by doing the motor first, you have more options. A low boost setup coud bottleneck you in the future if you were to forge, depending on your goals. Also remember that once you forge, that probably wont be the only thing you need. A stronger rear end, re-built tranny(eventually), larger tires, brakes, fuel system, tuning, and possibly a roll cage are a few supporting mods to accomodate higher power. This is not a cheap hobby, and anyone who says otherwise is extremely wealthy or lying.