FI shortblock?
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From: Milwaukee, WI
FI shortblock? I am looking to have a sponsor build me a shortblock for my turbo set up and am not sure what to do. I will be around 900 rwhp and would prefer not to use a C5R block since I would like to use that money elsewhere.
First - what ci engine? 408 or bigger or smaller, any suggestions?
Second - Iron block or LS6 block? weight or durability?
Third - Lunati pro billet rods or Oliver rods
Fourth - Lunati billet crank?
Fifth - JE pistons or Diamond?
I'm new to the turbo world so any suggestions for these stupid questions would help. Everything else is taken care of I just haven't decided on the short block.
Like I said I will be at 900 rwhp.
First - what ci engine? 408 or bigger or smaller, any suggestions?
Second - Iron block or LS6 block? weight or durability?
Third - Lunati pro billet rods or Oliver rods
Fourth - Lunati billet crank?
Fifth - JE pistons or Diamond?
I'm new to the turbo world so any suggestions for these stupid questions would help. Everything else is taken care of I just haven't decided on the short block.
Like I said I will be at 900 rwhp.
You can make that power with a 347, but i would suggest a 408 just so it will be more cost effecient. I would actually use an ls1 block as they are a little stronger, iron adds a lot of weight. I can't tell you on the next ones, it is prolly a matter of application. Call up Futral Motorsports, they will build you one. They are one of, if not the best, shop that I know of. They've built plenty of strong running cars, I don't see why yours wouldn't be the same.
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From: Toronto, Canada
Originally Posted by HAMRHEAD
I am looking to have a sponsor build me a shortblock for my turbo set up and am not sure what to do. I will be around 900 rwhp and would prefer not to use a C5R block since I would like to use that money elsewhere.
First - what ci engine? 408 or bigger or smaller, any suggestions?
Second - Iron block or LS6 block? weight or durability?
Third - Lunati pro billet rods or Oliver rods
Fourth - Lunati billet crank?
Fifth - JE pistons or Diamond?
I'm new to the turbo world so any suggestions for these stupid questions would help. Everything else is taken care of I just haven't decided on the short block.
Like I said I will be at 900 rwhp.
First - what ci engine? 408 or bigger or smaller, any suggestions?
Second - Iron block or LS6 block? weight or durability?
Third - Lunati pro billet rods or Oliver rods
Fourth - Lunati billet crank?
Fifth - JE pistons or Diamond?
I'm new to the turbo world so any suggestions for these stupid questions would help. Everything else is taken care of I just haven't decided on the short block.
Like I said I will be at 900 rwhp.
1\ CI I would try to stay under 400 cubes, however with an LS2 block and a 4" crank you're at 402. My motor has a smaller forged callies crank 3.875" and a 4" bore. 391 Cubes is a nice number.
2\ I prefer the aluminum, I have had iron and the extra wieght was very noticable in the front suspension and the way the car pushed when driving. My block is an LS6 resleeved and cryoed for extra strength. I have seen the aluminum survive 1300+ HP cars so I wouldn't be too worried about it. The iron is stronger but the weight penalty isn't worth it to me.
3\ I would stay away from the Lunati pro-billet rods, I have seen two break in two diiferent cars. At your HP level you don't need billet and Eagle or Oliver forged rods are more than enough for that motor. Billet adds price for no added return. If you were running 2000 HP I might think differently.
4\ Once again Billet = $$$ and way over kill for your application. Lunati and Callies make very high quality forged cranks that will cost less and perform way beyond your goals. Callies forged cranks are reasonably priced these days.
5\ Since you're looking for a low compression FI application my preference for pistons are Ross, top quality, thick deck surfaces, forged and well made.
Personally I think you need to talk to a good builder about the goals for your car and spend the dollars where they are needed not because you want overpriced internal parts
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Originally Posted by Warbird
Some personal bias on my part but I have had both iron and aluminum in the car. With FI displacment is not overly nessecary and can even cause more problems. Bigger bore and stroke mean lots more gas to push around so more $$ for bigger exhaust systems.
1\ CI I would try to stay under 400 cubes, however with an LS2 block and a 4" crank you're at 402. My motor has a smaller forged callies crank 3.875" and a 4" bore. 391 Cubes is a nice number.
2\ I prefer the aluminum, I have had iron and the extra wieght was very noticable in the front suspension and the way the car pushed when driving. My block is an LS6 resleeved and cryoed for extra strength. I have seen the aluminum survive 1300+ HP cars so I wouldn't be too worried about it. The iron is stronger but the weight penalty isn't worth it to me.
3\ I would stay away from the Lunati pro-billet rods, I have seen two break in two diiferent cars. At your HP level you don't need billet and Eagle or Oliver forged rods are more than enough for that motor. Billet adds price for no added return. If you were running 2000 HP I might think differently.
4\ Once again Billet = $$$ and way over kill for your application. Lunati and Callies make very high quality forged cranks that will cost less and perform way beyond your goals. Callies forged cranks are reasonably priced these days.
5\ Since you're looking for a low compression FI application my preference for pistons are Ross, top quality, thick deck surfaces, forged and well made.
Personally I think you need to talk to a good builder about the goals for your car and spend the dollars where they are needed not because you want overpriced internal parts
1\ CI I would try to stay under 400 cubes, however with an LS2 block and a 4" crank you're at 402. My motor has a smaller forged callies crank 3.875" and a 4" bore. 391 Cubes is a nice number.
2\ I prefer the aluminum, I have had iron and the extra wieght was very noticable in the front suspension and the way the car pushed when driving. My block is an LS6 resleeved and cryoed for extra strength. I have seen the aluminum survive 1300+ HP cars so I wouldn't be too worried about it. The iron is stronger but the weight penalty isn't worth it to me.
3\ I would stay away from the Lunati pro-billet rods, I have seen two break in two diiferent cars. At your HP level you don't need billet and Eagle or Oliver forged rods are more than enough for that motor. Billet adds price for no added return. If you were running 2000 HP I might think differently.
4\ Once again Billet = $$$ and way over kill for your application. Lunati and Callies make very high quality forged cranks that will cost less and perform way beyond your goals. Callies forged cranks are reasonably priced these days.
5\ Since you're looking for a low compression FI application my preference for pistons are Ross, top quality, thick deck surfaces, forged and well made.
Personally I think you need to talk to a good builder about the goals for your car and spend the dollars where they are needed not because you want overpriced internal parts
Thanks for all the info too! Any other opinions? Especially about the displacement, that's were I'm really undecided.
