Turbo cam selection 101
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From: Louisville, Ky
Turbo cam selection 101 Fact or false?
-More duration will allow more air to collect in the chamber which = more power when in or out of boost?
-More lift will only add power when out of boost (driving normal) because air is being forced in under boost and will find its way into the chamber regardless?
-Lower LSA's bleed off boost because why? Higher LSA's increase exhaust velocity which allows the turbo to spool faster?
-Boost level has nothing to do with cylinder pressure caused from backpressure? (If I added a bigger cam to make the same power with less boost this kit would still suck because higher cylinder pressures would remain the same?)
_____
98-00 LS1 Cam: 202/210 .496/.496 -116 LSA
02-03 ZO6 cam: 204/218 .551/.547 -117.5 LSA
I was thinking of doing the ZO6 cam but after doing a search on this there wouldn't seem to be much, if any benefit over my stock 2000 cam. Opinions? Also, is 14 degrees difference in duration too much?
_____
Cam Requirements:
-Smooth drivability
-NO fuel smell
-Near stock to slightly over stock idle
-Goal is to make the engine more efficient, not better sounding. (Like NA old-man cam)
Engine specs:
-346 cubes
-Shifting at 5800-6000rpm
-T67 turbo
-CNC ported/handfinished 6.0L heads. 2.02/1.6 valves
_____
My Q.M.P. kit is restrictive and creates tons of backpressure and cylinder pressure. Can a cam serve as ANY kind of crutch to make up for this downfall of the kit? (I know this kit sucks so spare me the criticism please.)
My reasoning to do a turbo cam would be to make the same power with less boost so that I can run 93 octane and a safe tune vs. 93 and methanol.
-More duration will allow more air to collect in the chamber which = more power when in or out of boost?
-More lift will only add power when out of boost (driving normal) because air is being forced in under boost and will find its way into the chamber regardless?
-Lower LSA's bleed off boost because why? Higher LSA's increase exhaust velocity which allows the turbo to spool faster?
-Boost level has nothing to do with cylinder pressure caused from backpressure? (If I added a bigger cam to make the same power with less boost this kit would still suck because higher cylinder pressures would remain the same?)
_____
98-00 LS1 Cam: 202/210 .496/.496 -116 LSA
02-03 ZO6 cam: 204/218 .551/.547 -117.5 LSA
I was thinking of doing the ZO6 cam but after doing a search on this there wouldn't seem to be much, if any benefit over my stock 2000 cam. Opinions? Also, is 14 degrees difference in duration too much?
_____
Cam Requirements:
-Smooth drivability
-NO fuel smell
-Near stock to slightly over stock idle
-Goal is to make the engine more efficient, not better sounding. (Like NA old-man cam)
Engine specs:
-346 cubes
-Shifting at 5800-6000rpm
-T67 turbo
-CNC ported/handfinished 6.0L heads. 2.02/1.6 valves
_____
My Q.M.P. kit is restrictive and creates tons of backpressure and cylinder pressure. Can a cam serve as ANY kind of crutch to make up for this downfall of the kit? (I know this kit sucks so spare me the criticism please.)
My reasoning to do a turbo cam would be to make the same power with less boost so that I can run 93 octane and a safe tune vs. 93 and methanol.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 697
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Originally Posted by SStolen
Fact or false?
-More duration will allow more air to collect in the chamber which = more power when in or out of boost?
-More lift will only add power when out of boost (driving normal) because air is being forced in under boost and will find its way into the chamber regardless?
-Lower LSA's bleed off boost because why? Higher LSA's increase exhaust velocity which allows the turbo to spool faster?
-Boost level has nothing to do with cylinder pressure caused from backpressure? (If I added a bigger cam to make the same power with less boost this kit would still suck because higher cylinder pressures would remain the same?)
_____
98-00 LS1 Cam: 202/210 .496/.496 -116 LSA
02-03 ZO6 cam: 204/218 .551/.547 -117.5 LSA
I was thinking of doing the ZO6 cam but after doing a search on this there wouldn't seem to be much, if any benefit over my stock 2000 cam. Opinions? Also, is 14 degrees difference in duration too much?
_____
Cam Requirements:
-Smooth drivability
-NO fuel smell
-Near stock to slightly over stock idle
-Goal is to make the engine more efficient, not better sounding. (Like NA old-man cam)
Engine specs:
-346 cubes
-Shifting at 5800-6000rpm
-T67 turbo
-CNC ported/handfinished 6.0L heads. 2.02/1.6 valves
_____
My Q.M.P. kit is restrictive and creates tons of backpressure and cylinder pressure. Can a cam serve as ANY kind of crutch to make up for this downfall of the kit? (I know this kit sucks so spare me the criticism please.)
My reasoning to do a turbo cam would be to make the same power with less boost so that I can run 93 octane and a safe tune vs. 93 and methanol.
-More duration will allow more air to collect in the chamber which = more power when in or out of boost?
-More lift will only add power when out of boost (driving normal) because air is being forced in under boost and will find its way into the chamber regardless?
-Lower LSA's bleed off boost because why? Higher LSA's increase exhaust velocity which allows the turbo to spool faster?
-Boost level has nothing to do with cylinder pressure caused from backpressure? (If I added a bigger cam to make the same power with less boost this kit would still suck because higher cylinder pressures would remain the same?)
_____
98-00 LS1 Cam: 202/210 .496/.496 -116 LSA
02-03 ZO6 cam: 204/218 .551/.547 -117.5 LSA
I was thinking of doing the ZO6 cam but after doing a search on this there wouldn't seem to be much, if any benefit over my stock 2000 cam. Opinions? Also, is 14 degrees difference in duration too much?
_____
Cam Requirements:
-Smooth drivability
-NO fuel smell
-Near stock to slightly over stock idle
-Goal is to make the engine more efficient, not better sounding. (Like NA old-man cam)
Engine specs:
-346 cubes
-Shifting at 5800-6000rpm
-T67 turbo
-CNC ported/handfinished 6.0L heads. 2.02/1.6 valves
_____
My Q.M.P. kit is restrictive and creates tons of backpressure and cylinder pressure. Can a cam serve as ANY kind of crutch to make up for this downfall of the kit? (I know this kit sucks so spare me the criticism please.)
My reasoning to do a turbo cam would be to make the same power with less boost so that I can run 93 octane and a safe tune vs. 93 and methanol.
http://www.forcedinductions.com/help.htm
"Typically a overlap spread of -8 degrees to +2 is a safe bet"
and id look into the LPE GT2-3 cam....ive got it for my N/A and its a babe,it idles like stock and makes 50rwhp more than stock.....took a Z06 on motor with it.if ur swapping cams you can go a bit bigger,make more power,and still sound close to stock.
"Typically a overlap spread of -8 degrees to +2 is a safe bet"
and id look into the LPE GT2-3 cam....ive got it for my N/A and its a babe,it idles like stock and makes 50rwhp more than stock.....took a Z06 on motor with it.if ur swapping cams you can go a bit bigger,make more power,and still sound close to stock.
There are way too many factors to just say XX cam will make XX power with your combo. Things like "114LS is best, or 117LS, or ..etc", are just blanket statements. Backpressure, RPM range, boost level, target horsepower, A/R of turbo, turbo frame (T3, T4, T6/Thumper), head flow, cubic inches, and even location of turbo...etc. All of these factors are extremely important in determining the cam that best suits your needs. There is no rule of thumb with a turbo cam. There are too many variables and the only way to get the right cam is to take all of those your parameters into consideration, and only then can a proper cam be selected. All of the points of reference above are just to get you on your way to building the best and most powerful turbo system for you. Study your design and ask questions along the way and you will be smiling the next time your opponent lines up next to you
