Dyno Numbers
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From: Englewood, Ohio
Dyno Numbers Got a chance to dyno the car and it still has some tuning issues but for the first time we did ok. Best pull was 555rwhp and 641 ft lbs of torque and this is through a 400 turbo/3400 stall and a 12 bolt/3.73 gear. The problems we had was that on the first couple pulls everything was ok but then the car would shut off at 5000 rpms, sometimes it would back fire real loud as it rolled to a stop. Up to 5000 rpms on these pulls the car showed no knock and a/f was in the 10's. Car feels fine and revs hard to 5000 where it just shuts it's self off. Any ideas on what this could be? When I get the tuning issue straightened out it should be around 600rwhp and 600 ft lbs of torque.
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From: Chi-Town, IL
Re: Dyno Numbers What kind of setup are you running..
I'm trying to get an idea of what I will put down, I have the identical drivetrain setup that you have...except I got a 3500 stall...
I'm trying to get an idea of what I will put down, I have the identical drivetrain setup that you have...except I got a 3500 stall...
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From: Englewood, Ohio
Re: Dyno Numbers </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BIGBOS:
<strong> What kind of setup are you running..
I'm trying to get an idea of what I will put down, I have the identical drivetrain setup that you have...except I got a 3500 stall... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">5.3 bored 125k over=348ci,stock crank,forged pistons,lunati rods,CNC heads,224-228/561-114 cam,flp headers,D1SC with about #9 on the dyno pulls,aeromotive fuel system,#50 injectors
<strong> What kind of setup are you running..
I'm trying to get an idea of what I will put down, I have the identical drivetrain setup that you have...except I got a 3500 stall... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">5.3 bored 125k over=348ci,stock crank,forged pistons,lunati rods,CNC heads,224-228/561-114 cam,flp headers,D1SC with about #9 on the dyno pulls,aeromotive fuel system,#50 injectors
Re: Dyno Numbers </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by nbm00ws6:
<strong>The problems we had was that on the first couple pulls everything was ok but then the car would shut off at 5000 rpms, sometimes it would backfire real loud as it rolled to a stop. Up to 5000 rpms on these pulls the car showed no knock and a/f was in the 10's. Car feels fine and revs hard to 5000 where it just shuts it's self off. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My car did that intermittently last year. The car was shutting off because it was loosing crank reference. I would first maybe swap in a new crank sensor and also trace the wiring, you have may have burned the signal wire which runs up by the #4 and #6 header primaries, in that big silver wrapping. If it still does that I would check to make sure you are not getting a huge drop in voltage. Worst case it will be something wrong with the reluctor wheel on the crankshaft. My reluctor wheel (aftermarket crank setup) had endplay and sideplay. Car would stall out at 5K and then backfire as it coasted to a stop from fuel running down hot exhaust pipes...
Nice numbers I am doing something similar but with an LS6 block and Vortech YS trim pulleyed for 20 lbs of boost.
Keep me posted on the problem I know of a few folks you can talk to if you don't figure it out.
<strong>The problems we had was that on the first couple pulls everything was ok but then the car would shut off at 5000 rpms, sometimes it would backfire real loud as it rolled to a stop. Up to 5000 rpms on these pulls the car showed no knock and a/f was in the 10's. Car feels fine and revs hard to 5000 where it just shuts it's self off. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My car did that intermittently last year. The car was shutting off because it was loosing crank reference. I would first maybe swap in a new crank sensor and also trace the wiring, you have may have burned the signal wire which runs up by the #4 and #6 header primaries, in that big silver wrapping. If it still does that I would check to make sure you are not getting a huge drop in voltage. Worst case it will be something wrong with the reluctor wheel on the crankshaft. My reluctor wheel (aftermarket crank setup) had endplay and sideplay. Car would stall out at 5K and then backfire as it coasted to a stop from fuel running down hot exhaust pipes...
Nice numbers I am doing something similar but with an LS6 block and Vortech YS trim pulleyed for 20 lbs of boost.
Keep me posted on the problem I know of a few folks you can talk to if you don't figure it out.
Re: Dyno Numbers John..we will take a look at the wiring. Seems odd that it would consistently run fine up to 5000 and then die? Wondering if we need to gap the plugs down more or try a different plug. We were running Tr-6s at .035.
Looked ath the tuning again and didn't see anything out of place <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
Looked ath the tuning again and didn't see anything out of place <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
Re: Dyno Numbers You have to look at what's happening, if the motor is shutting off, it's either going mega lean, losing crank reference/ electrical problem, or a mechanical issue. If your fuel pressure drops off to nothing at WOT it could shut off the car and also create lean backfires. I think you have burned wiring.
