Leaky Vortech aftercooler
#1
Leaky Vortech aftercooler
Can anyone help me with a sponsor/vendor where I could order a new Vortech aftercooler for my 01 SS? I called Vortech direct they want 1100.00 for a satin finish. Hopefully somebody can beat their price.
#3
Right now I have 2 vortech kits. But Id rather sell one of them complete after I finish rebuilding my T trim myself. I ordered parts from these guys. There the only ones I know that rebuild vortechs. And maybe 2 more in Texas but I wanted to do it myself.
http://www.capa.com.au/prices_vortec...ortech_cooling
IMHO if mine started leaking I would just make a FMIC and piping.
http://www.capa.com.au/prices_vortec...ortech_cooling
IMHO if mine started leaking I would just make a FMIC and piping.
#5
IMHO if mine started leaking I would just make a FMIC and piping.
#6
Actually I think a FMIC for a G trim might not have been completely explored. I lost 3 lbs. (12 to 9) after installing a 3" OBX. Some could have been due to the roughly 40 degree temp. reduction. I switched the MAF to the pressure side and picked up 2 lbs. (Now at 11). KP switched from a 3" to 4" OBX and picked up a #. I may also do this and then I'll be back at 12 with the 40 degree reduction. What I would like to see is someone with a G-trim try is a speed density tune and remove the MAF from the intake side. Now with a 3 1/2" opening I'll bet you would pick up a # or 2 vs. sucking air through a 75 mm MAF. You could then afford to put on a FMIC or just keep the aftercooler and pick up maybe a couple #s.
#7
Isn't KP using a D1? That unit puts out a lot more CFM's then the G-trim for sure. And the droping air temp wouldn't account for the loss of boost it would be the exact opposite as cooler air is more dense etc... I think you gained you boost back by moving the maf just because of removing restriction from the intake side of the SC etc... Steve SJH had also recognized this and has placed his maf right before the TB, but said the the gain in boost versus the drop in temps wasn't worth the sacrifice in boost. I myself haven't done a ton of research on moving the maf I have checked into a speed density tune and everyone I talk to is discouraging it unless doing the tunning yourself at whitch you could make ongoing changes. I know most of the turbo guys do it so I didn't think it would be that big a deal, but that is what I have run into. Keep going on your reseach as I am interested.
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#8
It's been a long time since I was in a physics class. I did look back at the thread when I posted about the boost loss. SJH repsonded that he felt it was due to the cooler air lowering the boost pressure.
#9
Well with the exception of water and that is only when it freezes most things tend to shrink in size so I see where that theory comes from. I how ever feel it is just the lack of volume due to the blower not being able to put out enough air to keep the boost level up etc... If you reduce the inlet resrictions you will increase the amount of air being pumped etc... so that will translate into more boost. Well at least that is my theory could be wrong. I would think that if you took the FMIC and piping out of the way and just went strait to the TB in this way you would pick up boost IE: 12-14LBS etc... And consequently more power and more heat no dought about that. Then comes the Meth to reduce inlet air temps. Good talking to you always like these conversations as I always walk away with more information.
#11
Yea it will work O.K.. Like was mentioned above the iat's may get up there but the boost will be up there too due to the short trip to the throttle body. I would probably put meth in at the tube before the T.B.. I'll bet you'll see the lower half of 10's.
#12
depending if a friend of mine upgrades to a ysi trim I may be putting in his T trim. Would the aftercooler be effective with the T trim's cfm's?
#13
yea i wouldn't expect that much but the only way to know for sure is to datalog.
It would be nice to hit low-mid 10's with the bigger blower and a little shot of nitrous to go 10.0's. That will be fast enough for me cause I don't want to put a full cage in.
It would be nice to hit low-mid 10's with the bigger blower and a little shot of nitrous to go 10.0's. That will be fast enough for me cause I don't want to put a full cage in.
#14
I cant relate any useful info as to why there is a boost loss, but mine was substantial. I think the trucks need alot more piping than the F body to get to a FMIC so that may be 1 reason why I lost so much pressure.
My previous setup was a 3.12 with my S trim and meth. The MAF was preblower and I had the A/F tuned without the meth and just added timing for the meth. I ended up with a conservative 18* and 10-11# when it was 60* or so outside
When I went to the FMIC I moved the MAF to right before the TB and went to a 2.87. I only see 11# on the coldest of nights 40* or less. I havent retuned my AF so Im sure there is some power there as Im very rich and I havent upped timing so Im sure there is alot more in it.
It feels MUCH stronger and breaks the tires loose with ease where it wouldnt before. So although I lost alot of boost pressure, it is making ALOT more power and has the potential for quite a bit more when I get the wideband on and retune.
My previous setup was a 3.12 with my S trim and meth. The MAF was preblower and I had the A/F tuned without the meth and just added timing for the meth. I ended up with a conservative 18* and 10-11# when it was 60* or so outside
When I went to the FMIC I moved the MAF to right before the TB and went to a 2.87. I only see 11# on the coldest of nights 40* or less. I havent retuned my AF so Im sure there is some power there as Im very rich and I havent upped timing so Im sure there is alot more in it.
It feels MUCH stronger and breaks the tires loose with ease where it wouldnt before. So although I lost alot of boost pressure, it is making ALOT more power and has the potential for quite a bit more when I get the wideband on and retune.