2ls1z

Can anyone help me with a sponsor/vendor where I could order a new Vortech aftercooler for my 01 SS? I called Vortech direct they want 1100.00 for a satin finish. Hopefully somebody can beat their price.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Did you ask Vortech if they could repair it? just a thought. Other than that I would keep posting up a WTB and see if any one has one thay are not using etc...

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Right now I have 2 vortech kits. But Id rather sell one of them complete after I finish rebuilding my T trim myself. I ordered parts from these guys. There the only ones I know that rebuild vortechs. And maybe 2 more in Texas but I wanted to do it myself.

http://www.capa.com.au/prices_vortec...ortech_cooling

IMHO if mine started leaking I would just make a FMIC and piping.

2001WS6Vert

I'll sell you a polished one. I have a front mount now.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

For a G-trim this would be a set backwards as the presure drop accross the FMIC and piping would defeat its purpose. SJH did this and lost power so he went to the nonaftercooled pipe and added meth witch is what I was going to suggest that you do if you can't find one for a resonable price. Now if I was running a T-trim or a YSI FMIC all the way the G-trim just doens't have enough volume. Good luck!

2001WS6Vert

Actually I think a FMIC for a G trim might not have been completely explored. I lost 3 lbs. (12 to 9) after installing a 3" OBX. Some could have been due to the roughly 40 degree temp. reduction. I switched the MAF to the pressure side and picked up 2 lbs. (Now at 11). KP switched from a 3" to 4" OBX and picked up a #. I may also do this and then I'll be back at 12 with the 40 degree reduction. What I would like to see is someone with a G-trim try is a speed density tune and remove the MAF from the intake side. Now with a 3 1/2" opening I'll bet you would pick up a # or 2 vs. sucking air through a 75 mm MAF. You could then afford to put on a FMIC or just keep the aftercooler and pick up maybe a couple #s.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Isn't KP using a D1? That unit puts out a lot more CFM's then the G-trim for sure. And the droping air temp wouldn't account for the loss of boost it would be the exact opposite as cooler air is more dense etc... I think you gained you boost back by moving the maf just because of removing restriction from the intake side of the SC etc... Steve SJH had also recognized this and has placed his maf right before the TB, but said the the gain in boost versus the drop in temps wasn't worth the sacrifice in boost. I myself haven't done a ton of research on moving the maf I have checked into a speed density tune and everyone I talk to is discouraging it unless doing the tunning yourself at whitch you could make ongoing changes. I know most of the turbo guys do it so I didn't think it would be that big a deal, but that is what I have run into. Keep going on your reseach as I am interested.

2001WS6Vert

It's been a long time since I was in a physics class. I did look back at the thread when I posted about the boost loss. SJH repsonded that he felt it was due to the cooler air lowering the boost pressure.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Well with the exception of water and that is only when it freezes most things tend to shrink in size so I see where that theory comes from. I how ever feel it is just the lack of volume due to the blower not being able to put out enough air to keep the boost level up etc... If you reduce the inlet resrictions you will increase the amount of air being pumped etc... so that will translate into more boost. Well at least that is my theory could be wrong. I would think that if you took the FMIC and piping out of the way and just went strait to the TB in this way you would pick up boost IE: 12-14LBS etc... And consequently more power and more heat no dought about that. Then comes the Meth to reduce inlet air temps. Good talking to you always like these conversations as I always walk away with more information.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

depending if a friend of mine upgrades to a ysi trim I may be putting in his T trim. Would the aftercooler be effective with the T trim's cfm's?

2001WS6Vert

Yea it will work O.K.. Like was mentioned above the iat's may get up there but the boost will be up there too due to the short trip to the throttle body. I would probably put meth in at the tube before the T.B.. I'll bet you'll see the lower half of 10's.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

RMCR says they see an 80* drop in air temps I thought that was alot, but the head unit will probably not build as much heat being more efficent at moving that amount of air etc... I have my doughts about the amount of temprature drop they saw, but I am just passing on what they told me when I asked the same thing etc..

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

yea i wouldn't expect that much but the only way to know for sure is to datalog.

It would be nice to hit low-mid 10's with the bigger blower and a little shot of nitrous to go 10.0's. That will be fast enough for me cause I don't want to put a full cage in.

greentahoe

iTrader: (2)

I cant relate any useful info as to why there is a boost loss, but mine was substantial. I think the trucks need alot more piping than the F body to get to a FMIC so that may be 1 reason why I lost so much pressure.
My previous setup was a 3.12 with my S trim and meth. The MAF was preblower and I had the A/F tuned without the meth and just added timing for the meth. I ended up with a conservative 18* and 10-11# when it was 60* or so outside
When I went to the FMIC I moved the MAF to right before the TB and went to a 2.87. I only see 11# on the coldest of nights 40* or less. I havent retuned my AF so Im sure there is some power there as Im very rich and I havent upped timing so Im sure there is alot more in it.
It feels MUCH stronger and breaks the tires loose with ease where it wouldnt before. So although I lost alot of boost pressure, it is making ALOT more power and has the potential for quite a bit more when I get the wideband on and retune.