Blown 383 LT1 cost comparison
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Blown 383 LT1 cost comparison Does this look right in terms of costs for a blown 383? I'm trying to find out if the price is reasonable.
Block machining w/hone deck $300.00
Valve job $110.00
Pressure test heads $ 0.00
Cylinder head resurfacing $ 70.00
SCAT/JE Rotating assembly + $1389.00
cam, bearings, ARP main studs
Upgrade to 4340 steel crank $250.00
Upgrade to 4340 H beams $120.00
Assemble long block $450.00
Complete balance $125.00
Stroker clearance $ 45.00
Canton 15-242T Pan $283.00
Oil pan pick up $ 34.00
Cut dual key crankshaft $100.00
Gasket set $121.00
ARP head studs $171.00
Melling oil pump $ 0.00
Machine timming cover for BB hub $ 20.00
Total labor: $1200.00
Total parts: $2368.00
Total + 8.25% sales tax $3763.36
-B
Block machining w/hone deck $300.00
Valve job $110.00
Pressure test heads $ 0.00
Cylinder head resurfacing $ 70.00
SCAT/JE Rotating assembly + $1389.00
cam, bearings, ARP main studs
Upgrade to 4340 steel crank $250.00
Upgrade to 4340 H beams $120.00
Assemble long block $450.00
Complete balance $125.00
Stroker clearance $ 45.00
Canton 15-242T Pan $283.00
Oil pan pick up $ 34.00
Cut dual key crankshaft $100.00
Gasket set $121.00
ARP head studs $171.00
Melling oil pump $ 0.00
Machine timming cover for BB hub $ 20.00
Total labor: $1200.00
Total parts: $2368.00
Total + 8.25% sales tax $3763.36
-B
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I don't see anything about a 4-bolt main conversion. I consider this very important since, even with my 4 bolt billet caps, there is fretting on the block where the caps are moving around. That's at about 850 fwhp.
Mike
Mike
Blown383, I saw the pics of your project in the LT1 section....looks good!
Are those the prices you were quoted? If so, they seem to be reasonable. I would have guessed that the machine work would have cost more than that. I own a 383 and have worked in a performance engine building shop and the prices (machining) at this particular shop were near double of what you have posted.
Jason
Are those the prices you were quoted? If so, they seem to be reasonable. I would have guessed that the machine work would have cost more than that. I own a 383 and have worked in a performance engine building shop and the prices (machining) at this particular shop were near double of what you have posted.
Jason
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Glad to hear that the costs are reasonable because I am going broke. How much does the 4 bolt main conversion typically cost? Because from the research that I have done 4 bolt splayed conversions are overkill, most folks that I talked too said they did it just because the motor was already apart and that they just went ahead with it. I don't plan on making more than 600hp because that would require a F1 to replace the D1.
-B
-B
Last edited by Blown383; Jan 30, 2006 at 09:34 PM.
For a blown 600HP, you can stay 2-bolt and save some money. You won't have to rev it high enough to worry. I would go to ARP main studs, like you mention though. Work hard not to detonate.
I would also spring for file-fit moly Speed-Pro rings and one of the hand crank ring grinders. Time consuming but a good source of power if you do it right.
Jim
I would also spring for file-fit moly Speed-Pro rings and one of the hand crank ring grinders. Time consuming but a good source of power if you do it right.
Jim
