Blowing Dip Stick Out
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From: Marysville, WA
Well removing that hose certainly got rid of the dip stick issue. AND i now have another lb+ of boost! 
But from what you guys are saying, a breather IN ADDITION to my PCV into the catch can into the s/c inlet is still a good idea for boost. I looked at some breathers on Summit, but I didn't see any that sounded like they'd fit my Nasty valve covers. I have the 1.25" screw-in billet oil filler cap. Any suggestions?
Older Toyotas have a check valve on the brake boosters with 3/8" hose fittings on both ends if anyone wants to take that route. But it's a dealer-only part....
But from what you guys are saying, a breather IN ADDITION to my PCV into the catch can into the s/c inlet is still a good idea for boost. I looked at some breathers on Summit, but I didn't see any that sounded like they'd fit my Nasty valve covers. I have the 1.25" screw-in billet oil filler cap. Any suggestions?Older Toyotas have a check valve on the brake boosters with 3/8" hose fittings on both ends if anyone wants to take that route. But it's a dealer-only part....
Any small one way check valve will work, an older carrol/vortech C5 kit I had used a nice little plastic 3/8 inline check valve, never was able to figure out where they got it from.
How exactly do have your catch can/PCV/hose to the inlet/valve cover hooked up?
How exactly do have your catch can/PCV/hose to the inlet/valve cover hooked up?
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From: Anheuser Busch, Houston Texas
Originally Posted by kp
I still use a PCV though, keeps the oil a little cleaner if you street cruise a lot - maybe 
I use the LS6 valley to PCV valve to AMW catch can to check valve to Intake. Then use a breather on each valve cover.
I use the LS6 valley to PCV valve to AMW catch can to check valve to Intake. Then use a breather on each valve cover.
Question: you have your pcv (via catch can) going back to the intake for recirculation, like normal. I get that avoids smelling up the place, but the can stops oil from going into intake. I like those two concepts.
But then you have breathers on the covers. I also get that's to fix the /boosting + closed crankcase = no more seals/ problem, but doesn't that totally ruin the "my car doesn't smell like an oil drum" fix you did by recirculating it in the first place, since it is just going atmo at the valve covers?
Sorry if I am not getting it...
I agree with KP.. I have ran boost for the past 4 years and I only blew out my dipstick when I had broken ringlands / hole in my #6 piston.. This was with only 7psi as well. I'm running 2X that boost now and no problems at all with the dipstick popping out. I'm running hose lines from my valve cover breathers to a catch can, then venting to atmosphere.
Clint
Clint
Originally Posted by kp
Thats how some do it and it works fine.
I still use a PCV though, keeps the oil a little cleaner if you street cruise a lot - maybe
I use the LS6 valley to PCV valve to AMW catch can to check valve to Intake. Then use a breather on each valve cover.
I probably dont need the PCV anymore but I am too lazy to change anything and it works OK for me..
I still use a PCV though, keeps the oil a little cleaner if you street cruise a lot - maybe
I use the LS6 valley to PCV valve to AMW catch can to check valve to Intake. Then use a breather on each valve cover.
I probably dont need the PCV anymore but I am too lazy to change anything and it works OK for me..
Last edited by JMBLOWNWS6; Mar 8, 2006 at 11:39 PM.
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Teching In
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Check your EVAP system ---> PCV valve and all the line related to it. It is pinched or clogged somewhere. To do so, perform the following:
1.Disconnect your vacuum hose from your PCV and put you thumb to it while the car is running - if the thumb sucks in - your lines are good, if not - check the line for cracks and clogs starting from the end you got in your hand down to the intake manifold. Most likely you'll have to replace it.
2. If lines are good, take out your PCV valve and shake - if doesn't rattle - go get new one.
3. If it does, put your PCV valve in and connect it.
4. Open the oil cap on the valve cover with the engine running.
5. Take a piece of paper(3x5 card) and put it over the hole - if it stays on - PCV valve is good. If it blows out - replce the PCV valve
I hope it helps, let me know the results
Sincerely,
Valera
1.Disconnect your vacuum hose from your PCV and put you thumb to it while the car is running - if the thumb sucks in - your lines are good, if not - check the line for cracks and clogs starting from the end you got in your hand down to the intake manifold. Most likely you'll have to replace it.
2. If lines are good, take out your PCV valve and shake - if doesn't rattle - go get new one.
3. If it does, put your PCV valve in and connect it.
4. Open the oil cap on the valve cover with the engine running.
5. Take a piece of paper(3x5 card) and put it over the hole - if it stays on - PCV valve is good. If it blows out - replce the PCV valve
I hope it helps, let me know the results
Sincerely,
Valera
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Also if you are running boost and all tubes/PCV valve check out all right, you need a bigger PCV valve or a breather filter because your stock one is not efficient enough to keep up with extra pressure that is generated by a turbocharged engine.
To install a breather filter, you need to plug the vacuum line coming off your manifold. Then you need to put some type of a tube on top of the valve over hole for PCV valve and attach a breather filter to it. Breather filters can be found in your local Autozone/Advanced Auto Parts. It looks just like a ram air filter, but only about 2-3in in diameter and about 2.5-3in high.
To install a breather filter, you need to plug the vacuum line coming off your manifold. Then you need to put some type of a tube on top of the valve over hole for PCV valve and attach a breather filter to it. Breather filters can be found in your local Autozone/Advanced Auto Parts. It looks just like a ram air filter, but only about 2-3in in diameter and about 2.5-3in high.
Teching In
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But take note that breather filters are illegal because you are tampering with emissionnn component and basically your are allowing blow-by gases(HC/CO/NOx and other bad stuff) to escape into the atmosphere.
Sincerely,
-Valera-
Sincerely,
-Valera-
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
There is no reason not to run an operational P.C.V. system. Like KP stated you contain the nasty vapors + extend the oil life. The oil remains cleaner from the start because it does not have to absorb nearly as much contamination. The only reason I see to only use a vent only system is for ease of installation.
Last edited by 2001WS6Vert; Mar 9, 2006 at 06:38 AM. Reason: spelling
Originally Posted by lo_jack
Question: you have your pcv (via catch can) going back to the intake for recirculation, like normal. I get that avoids smelling up the place, but the can stops oil from going into intake. I like those two concepts.
But then you have breathers on the covers. I also get that's to fix the /boosting + closed crankcase = no more seals/ problem, but doesn't that totally ruin the "my car doesn't smell like an oil drum" fix you did by recirculating it in the first place, since it is just going atmo at the valve covers?
Sorry if I am not getting it...
But then you have breathers on the covers. I also get that's to fix the /boosting + closed crankcase = no more seals/ problem, but doesn't that totally ruin the "my car doesn't smell like an oil drum" fix you did by recirculating it in the first place, since it is just going atmo at the valve covers?
Sorry if I am not getting it...
Anyhow, at idle and cruise the PCV is pulling air through the breathers in the valve covers, through the crankcase, through the catch can and then into the intake. WOT is pretty much the only time the PCV is closed and not drawing through the crankcase so both things work but at different times. If the car was WOT all the time then it would smell like a used can of oil but since 98% is part throttle/high vacuum the PCV works just fine. Only downfall is you now have unmetered air and the idle/maf tuning get a little weird but its easy enough to fix and is no concern if you run an SD tune.
Originally Posted by lo_jack
Ok I gotcha now. Take care of that pneumonia.
Where in the intake stream are you routing the recycle line?
Does it make a difference if you have a catch can?
Where in the intake stream are you routing the recycle line?
Does it make a difference if you have a catch can?
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From: Anheuser Busch, Houston Texas
Originally Posted by kp
Mine is like this, LS6 valley cover>PCV valve>AMW catch can>mcmaster check valve>intake manifold. That and 2 breathers on the valve cover. The catch can just keeps the oil out of the intake, does a decent job of it..
Because the rest of it does not keep the turbo from pressurizing the case and forcing things out of places, unless I got confused.
I have an additional question for you. It seems that having vacuum on the crankcase is a good idea for various reasons, but figuring out what to do with the product of that vacuum is the problem, if you still want to relieve the pressure forced induction causes.
Are these two goals simultanesously acheivable in the same system, or not? Could you route it such that under boost the pressurized mix from the crankcase is evaced (PCV style, yet not PCV since it is closed under boost) and routed back into the induction system preturbo to be cooled, measured and burned again (post catch can, to remove oil) instead of sent straight back into the TB, which is where the pressurization occurs (among other unwanted side effects, which is why peple disconnect and cap that TB input)?
Also, for people who do not route their post catch can air back into the system somewhere, are you experiencing any water in your oil from moisture collecting in the crank case instead of being sent to the intake and burned?
Sorry for all the questions, I spent hours researching this and came up more confused than I started.
