View Poll Results: Which do you think is the most dependable
Supercharger
58
28.16%
N/A
48
23.30%
Turbo
59
28.64%
Twin turbo
41
19.90%
Voters: 206. You may not vote on this poll
Most dependable extreme setup?
Most dependable extreme setup? If your thinking about going with a setup to hall some *** which do you think would be the fastest and which would be the most dependable, and why?
Last edited by Optimus_Prime; Apr 27, 2006 at 01:48 PM.
What are you goals? Power, ETs, traps, Drags, autocross, stock motor vs. build, stock cubes vs. bigger cubes, fuel use, fuel economy, streetability, how offen driven, and above all COST? That all makes a big difference in what you are asking. Can you elaborate more on this subject?
Originally Posted by Gold Phoenix
What are you goals? Power, ETs, traps, Drags, autocross, stock motor vs. build, stock cubes vs. bigger cubes, fuel use, fuel economy, streetability, how offen driven, and above all COST? That all makes a big difference in what you are asking. Can you elaborate more on this subject?
Good luck
Andy
SSU Moderator
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,857
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From: Austin, TX
True.
Extreme at the track would be like 700+ cid w/ twin big frame 94's or so. Extreme on the street would be like 700+rwhp.
HOWEVER - N/A is the most dependable no matter what the goals are. Sorry. For FI, turbo's (either twin or single) will be faster all else being equal but they will also be more expensive and require more involved tuning in most cases. Supercharges are a bit simpler, but can have belt issues.
Extreme at the track would be like 700+ cid w/ twin big frame 94's or so. Extreme on the street would be like 700+rwhp.
HOWEVER - N/A is the most dependable no matter what the goals are. Sorry. For FI, turbo's (either twin or single) will be faster all else being equal but they will also be more expensive and require more involved tuning in most cases. Supercharges are a bit simpler, but can have belt issues.
Originally Posted by Gold Phoenix
What are you goals? Power, ETs, traps, Drags, autocross, stock motor vs. build, stock cubes vs. bigger cubes, fuel use, fuel economy, streetability, how offen driven, and above all COST? That all makes a big difference in what you are asking. Can you elaborate more on this subject?
I'd like to run low 11's/high 10's. I would do both autocross and drag racing
. I would get forged internals, im not sure what cubes are. I would prefer 18+MPG on the highway and it would have to be streetable since its my daily driver...Cost dosent matter, I have time to save. Well, my old setup was good suspension, gears, tires, and 150HP of nitrous that got me in the 11.60s at 119mph. I got 464whp on the bottle, 323whp off it, and 27mpg on the highway. I ran on nitrous at the track and street for 3 years. The only problems I had were self-inflicted. With more bolt-ons like headers, cat-back, pulleys, electric water pump, more gear, and slicks I could have been in the high 10s. I am getting more aggressive on my setup. I am not trying to talk you out of FI. I hated running out of nitrous.
There was a black T/A with just a Procharger ran 10.90s Check out the boost lists and look what other have done. Maybe that will help.
There was a black T/A with just a Procharger ran 10.90s Check out the boost lists and look what other have done. Maybe that will help.
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Originally Posted by NHRAMAN
Turbo / Flux Capacitor is the bestest..... 
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Verdad Gallardo SSU Moderator
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,857
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by Lasershop
Flux Capacitor has been debated many times both in this time continuum and in others. Common misconception but it does not actually add power.
N/A is what you want unless you want the wow factor. Autocross/Road Racing is not a game of power, but a game of control and braking. 400-450rw NA is plenty.
Originally Posted by Optimus_Prime
I'd like to run low 11's/high 10's. I would do both autocross and drag racing. I would get forged internals, im not sure what cubes are. I would prefer 18+MPG on the highway and it would have to be streetable since its my daily driver...Cost dosent matter, I have time to save.
. I would get forged internals, im not sure what cubes are. I would prefer 18+MPG on the highway and it would have to be streetable since its my daily driver...Cost dosent matter, I have time to save.If those are your goals, i'd stick with an ATI procharger kit. Get the D1-SC and get the SDCE 8 rib belt set up from SD-concepts and a FMIC too...I feel thats a must do with a ATI kit.
When I ran the SDCE/ATI D1 kit, I didn't have to worry about jack, just change the D1's oil, and do routine maintence to the car and drove the **** out of it daily.
Running the SDCE set up I didn't have any belt slip issues and boost was dead on consistant on the street and track. Ran low 11.1s@124+ up here at 5600ft.
Just bolted on some good tires for the track and had a blast.
Turbo's are a whole new ball game for me tho
J
Originally Posted by RyanJ
If anything, its made it harder to get to 88mph at times. Now, the hover conversion and the Mr. Fusion on the other hand....now that's a set of mods I can get behind.
Thing about the hover conversion is that I cant' run my 335's on the rear.
Originally Posted by RyanJ
True, but I'd bet your 60ft would be better with the H.C. vs. the 335's....as long as there wasnt a strong wind or a lightning storm situation.
Originally Posted by RyanJ
If anything, its made it harder to get to 88mph at times. Now, the hover conversion and the Mr. Fusion on the other hand....now that's a set of mods I can get behind.
N/A is what you want unless you want the wow factor. Autocross/Road Racing is not a game of power, but a game of control and braking. 400-450rw NA is plenty.
N/A is what you want unless you want the wow factor. Autocross/Road Racing is not a game of power, but a game of control and braking. 400-450rw NA is plenty.
I just said that i did both, never said i wanted to be good at autocross
Originally Posted by frcefed98
If those are your goals, i'd stick with an ATI procharger kit. Get the D1-SC and get the SDCE 8 rib belt set up from SD-concepts and a FMIC too...I feel thats a must do with a ATI kit.
When I ran the SDCE/ATI D1 kit, I didn't have to worry about jack, just change the D1's oil, and do routine maintence to the car and drove the **** out of it daily.
Running the SDCE set up I didn't have any belt slip issues and boost was dead on consistant on the street and track. Ran low 11.1s@124+ up here at 5600ft.
Just bolted on some good tires for the track and had a blast.
Turbo's are a whole new ball game for me tho
J
When I ran the SDCE/ATI D1 kit, I didn't have to worry about jack, just change the D1's oil, and do routine maintence to the car and drove the **** out of it daily.
Running the SDCE set up I didn't have any belt slip issues and boost was dead on consistant on the street and track. Ran low 11.1s@124+ up here at 5600ft.
Just bolted on some good tires for the track and had a blast.
Turbo's are a whole new ball game for me tho
J
RDeputy150, its been pretty much both, but more bad only because I bought an ill designed turbo kit to begin with and had to remake the whole the turbo set up myself. Lots of time and money wasted right there. But nah, going to the turbo has been an experience and once all the lil issues are sorted out the car will run great.
I had my fair share of problems with the procharger but that was due to the poor belt/pulley set up ATI provides with their Fbody kit. After going from various pulley set ups and a cog set up, I went with the SDCE 8 rib spring tensioned set up and the car started running great at the track because there was no belt slip and boost was dead on all the time.
I had my fair share of problems with the procharger but that was due to the poor belt/pulley set up ATI provides with their Fbody kit. After going from various pulley set ups and a cog set up, I went with the SDCE 8 rib spring tensioned set up and the car started running great at the track because there was no belt slip and boost was dead on all the time.
Are there and throaty deep exhaust turbo systems out there? Watching the STS commercial on SPEED channel makes me wanan laugh. That vetter sounds like such a sissy car compared to the viper.. Performance issues aside..
I like an exhaust rumble and engine roar that makes the hair stand up on my arms. Anyways sorry to hijack the thread
Back in the LT1 days a bud of mine had the procharger.. and I swear it was in his garage being worked on more than he drove it.
I like an exhaust rumble and engine roar that makes the hair stand up on my arms. Anyways sorry to hijack the thread
Back in the LT1 days a bud of mine had the procharger.. and I swear it was in his garage being worked on more than he drove it. 
Originally Posted by Optimus_Prime
I'd like to run low 11's/high 10's. I would do both autocross and drag racing. I would get forged internals, im not sure what cubes are. I would prefer 18+MPG on the highway and it would have to be streetable since its my daily driver...Cost dosent matter, I have time to save.
. I would get forged internals, im not sure what cubes are. I would prefer 18+MPG on the highway and it would have to be streetable since its my daily driver...Cost dosent matter, I have time to save.If AutoX and road racing is one of your goals i would stick with a D-1SC. Some people would say N/A is the best for AutoX and Road Course racing and I agree, but since your other goal is drag racing then the D-1SC will give u the best of both worlds.
Good luck
I've had good luck with the D1SC. It has been my daily driver for the past couple summers.
Hands down, I have seen the turbo cars with more problems: cracked headers, cooked sensors, burned ignition systems, short turbo life, etc...
Hands down, I have seen the turbo cars with more problems: cracked headers, cooked sensors, burned ignition systems, short turbo life, etc...