Anyone in the forced induction section run any shroudless fan setups on LS1 cars???

 

I am right now. havent done much sitting in traffic,
last saturday ambient was in the 70-75*F and got up to 200* when sitting, not even sure my fan kicked on then, have to check that later.
found out my stock gauge is useless.

 

I'm thinking, personally, that those of us that are running without a shrouded setup on a front mount turbo are the exactly the ones that keep overheating in traffic.

 

I have a measly LT1, but I am not using a fan shroud... no problems.

 

Prior conversation with some Spal techs,

I am being told in order for a fan shroud to do it's job, it has to be a minimum distance away from the core itself, atleast 7/8 of an inch.

Keith, please see the (2) attached PDF's this is the 12" HP paddle blade. If these will fit on your aftermarket core we think this should be your best bet at cooling this thing! These 12" HP hold up the best at static we are guessing you are around 15MM of static pressure?(again this is a guess).
If possible fab up a flat shroud with some flaps in the corners?

What do you think?

Heath
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Johnson [mailto:kjohns34@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 3:26 PM
To: Heath Langenfeld
Subject: 98 Camaro


Heath,

I am in need of your assistance please. Previously we spoke on my 98 383 stroker blower Camaro. I have included what tech data I have to better assist you in making any possible suggestions.

My original problem was the 3000 cfm Spal heating wires at the fan. So I purchased two of you relay kits to rewire new fans.

Now what is your opinion on the Procharger shroud. It holds the single 16" 3000 cfm model. The other side of the shroud is just dead space.

From what different manufactures suggest, it would be better to house two smaller fans to pull across the entire area of the radiator. Do you agree? If so, can you suggest two size fans for me.

I browsed your fans and PDF information and this is what I came up with:


14"+ 12"= 26" 1720cfm+ 1630cfm= 3350cfm
14"+ 10"= 24" 1720cfm+ 1070cfm= 2790cfm
14"+ 10"= 25" 1720cfm+ 1390cfm= 3110cfm

13"+ 13"= 26" 1710cfm+ 1710cfm= 3420cfm
13"+ 11"= 24" 1710cfm+ 1390cfm= 3100cfm
13"+ 12"= 25" 1710cfm+ 1630cfm= 3340cfm
13"+ 10"= 23" 1710cfm+ 1070cfm= 2780cfm
12"+ 12"= 24" 1630cfm+ 1630cfm= 3260cfm

TOP SIX FLOW Static Pressure 0.2 0.4
13"+ 13"= 26" 3420cfm 3000cfm 2540cfm
13"+ 12"= 25" 3340cfm 2950cfm 2510cfm
14"+ 12"= 26" 3350cfm 2980cfm 2690cfm
12"+ 12"= 24" 3260cfm 2900cfm 2480cfm
14"+ 11"= 25" 3110cfm 2760cfm 2400cfm
13"+ 11"= 24" 3100cfm 2730cfm 2340cfm

I realize these are numbers, however my concerns lie in how to properly read your PDF files on determining which fan has the more powerful motor. Also I need your straight paddle blades to pull the most air, I am not concerned in being quiet. I have the ability to stretch or reduce my shroud so I have some room for adjustment.

Lastly would I benefit from removing the shroud all together? Did I mention I was pulling through the 1) intercooler, 2) A/C condenser, and finally 3) the thick radiator

At the initial look, I went for the big free flow numbers, however after review the 14", 12" and 11" have lower drops in cfm under pressure. So at this point is their a mathematical formula on determining the best combination?????????

P.S. the 13" is a Be Cool part number, as I am told you make their fans...

 

Opps,

The two attachments I forgot are as follows. One PDF file is too large to upload and I am not permitted to edit a PDF file. The part number is 30102038, it's the 12" paddle blade design... Also www.the-fan-man.com has the cheapest Spal prices I have ever seen.....