FI and living in Houston with Humidity...
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 451
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From: Houston
FI and living in Houston with Humidity... Well Im stuck btw N20, the Procharger, and an STS kit in the forced induction route 
. The humidity in Houston suckes tremendously lol and with my car going with FI, MTI told me a procharger would make me run WAY too hot, because the kit takes out a fan. They told me that the STS kit is okay, but I better bring some cash lol. Nitrous is an opion but I love FI and what I hear about it. Any suggestions on FI with alot of humidity and the consequences??
. The humidity in Houston suckes tremendously lol and with my car going with FI, MTI told me a procharger would make me run WAY too hot, because the kit takes out a fan. They told me that the STS kit is okay, but I better bring some cash lol. Nitrous is an opion but I love FI and what I hear about it. Any suggestions on FI with alot of humidity and the consequences?? Well if you are stuck on a Procharger you can find a fan araingement that will work even here in Houston just ask around there are people that have already addressed the issue. If you are looking for 500-600rwhp the Vortech kit is another option and I never had any cooling issues. As far as cost that can't ever be argued as N02 is always the cheapest route. Good luck!
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Yeah I really want to stay away from N20. But being an 18 yr old and graduation is coming up in a week and a half 
I was wondering what yall on this site would be the best choice for me.
I was wondering what yall on this site would be the best choice for me. 
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
I agree that you will have over-heating problems (you live in Texas with extremely hight summer temps...same as here in Kansas...easy 90's every day July thru August).
Many will post that they have never had overheating issues running the single ATI fan...but they never mention where they live, or the fact that they have pulled the AC, or whether they are running an M6 or an A4 with a high stall.
What I discovered is that it's the AC and when it's turned on that elevates the temps to over 210 and makes the coolant start to gurgle with steam pockets especially when idling or in stop and go traffic. When the AC is turned on all of the elevated air off of the AC radiator is drawn directly thru the radiator. It takes about 10 minutes with AC on to elevate temps from 185 up to 210.
To fix the problem, I installed an additional fan to replace the driver side 11 inch that ATI deletes with their kit. I replaced the ATI 16 with a Spal Extreme (output 3000 cfm) and a Spal 9 inch (750 cfm). I cut my own hole in the ATI shroud and mounted the 9 inch.
This is not a good pic, but the install looks like stock and not a hack job.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dlands...&.dnm=5bec.jpg
At the time no one was making a replacement dual fan kit for the ATI when I built my system, but SDCE makes a kit now.
http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...0fc6f70862b975
Make sure to ask what Spal 16 is supplied with their kit (the 16 Extreme (3000 cfm) or the (2200 cfm unit)? Their pricing suggests it's not the 16 inch Extreme based on the dollars I have in mine. Of course I had to pay retail. I'm in no way suggesting the SDCE makes or sells inferior products...just be clear as to which fan is in their kit.
My two fans pull 3750 cfm compared to the single ATI which is unknown and the stock dual 11's which I recall pull 2250 cfm.
But even considering all of the above, my car will still jump to 210 when idling parked on concrete with the AC on full blast in 100 degree temps (in Kansas).
Two other things elevate engine temps. Intake air temps and whether or not you have a M6 or an A4 transmission.
All things equal an A4 car will always run hotter than an M6 car. And a higher stall convertor will also elevate transmission oil temps and all of the transmission oil is routed through the radiator to cool and as it cools it raises the coolant in the radiator.
So you will need to install a transmission cooler preferably with its own fan and bypass the radiator completely.
ATI reroutes the intake charge back thru the charger, so when you are idling the temp gets higher and higher. Elevated intake air temps increase engine temps.
The fix is to exhaust excess air intake from the charge to atmosphere rather than rerouting back through the charger as ATI does. Simply install a K*N air filter and vent to atmosphere and block off the return hole in the charger.
Lastly, it's been proven without argument that a front mounted intercooler (FMIC) will also reduce intake air temps compared to the air to air intercoolers that ATI supplies with their kits (probably 50-60 degrees). IMO an FMIC ATI system will run much cooler than ATI's air to air intercoolers.
In summary, add an extra fan, a tranny cooler, vent to atmosphere, and if your budget allows add an FMIC and you won't have cooling issues with an ATI.
Many will post that they have never had overheating issues running the single ATI fan...but they never mention where they live, or the fact that they have pulled the AC, or whether they are running an M6 or an A4 with a high stall.
What I discovered is that it's the AC and when it's turned on that elevates the temps to over 210 and makes the coolant start to gurgle with steam pockets especially when idling or in stop and go traffic. When the AC is turned on all of the elevated air off of the AC radiator is drawn directly thru the radiator. It takes about 10 minutes with AC on to elevate temps from 185 up to 210.
To fix the problem, I installed an additional fan to replace the driver side 11 inch that ATI deletes with their kit. I replaced the ATI 16 with a Spal Extreme (output 3000 cfm) and a Spal 9 inch (750 cfm). I cut my own hole in the ATI shroud and mounted the 9 inch.
This is not a good pic, but the install looks like stock and not a hack job.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dlands...&.dnm=5bec.jpg
At the time no one was making a replacement dual fan kit for the ATI when I built my system, but SDCE makes a kit now.
http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...0fc6f70862b975
Make sure to ask what Spal 16 is supplied with their kit (the 16 Extreme (3000 cfm) or the (2200 cfm unit)? Their pricing suggests it's not the 16 inch Extreme based on the dollars I have in mine. Of course I had to pay retail. I'm in no way suggesting the SDCE makes or sells inferior products...just be clear as to which fan is in their kit.
My two fans pull 3750 cfm compared to the single ATI which is unknown and the stock dual 11's which I recall pull 2250 cfm.
But even considering all of the above, my car will still jump to 210 when idling parked on concrete with the AC on full blast in 100 degree temps (in Kansas).
Two other things elevate engine temps. Intake air temps and whether or not you have a M6 or an A4 transmission.
All things equal an A4 car will always run hotter than an M6 car. And a higher stall convertor will also elevate transmission oil temps and all of the transmission oil is routed through the radiator to cool and as it cools it raises the coolant in the radiator.
So you will need to install a transmission cooler preferably with its own fan and bypass the radiator completely.
ATI reroutes the intake charge back thru the charger, so when you are idling the temp gets higher and higher. Elevated intake air temps increase engine temps.
The fix is to exhaust excess air intake from the charge to atmosphere rather than rerouting back through the charger as ATI does. Simply install a K*N air filter and vent to atmosphere and block off the return hole in the charger.
Lastly, it's been proven without argument that a front mounted intercooler (FMIC) will also reduce intake air temps compared to the air to air intercoolers that ATI supplies with their kits (probably 50-60 degrees). IMO an FMIC ATI system will run much cooler than ATI's air to air intercoolers.
In summary, add an extra fan, a tranny cooler, vent to atmosphere, and if your budget allows add an FMIC and you won't have cooling issues with an ATI.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; May 14, 2006 at 05:19 PM.
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Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
I agree that you will have over-heating problems (you live in Texas with extremely hight summer temps...same as here in Kansas...easy 90's every day July thru August).
Many will post that they have never had overheating issues running the single ATI fan...but they never mention where they live, or the fact that they have pulled the AC, or whether they are running an M6 or an A4 with a high stall.
What I discovered is that it's the AC and when it's turned on that elevates the temps to over 210 and makes the coolant start to gurgle with steam pockets especially when idling or in stop and go traffic. When the AC is turned on all of the elevated air off of the AC radiator is drawn directly thru the radiator. It takes about 10 minutes with AC on to elevate temps from 185 up to 210.
To fix the problem, I installed an additional fan to replace the driver side 11 inch that ATI deletes with their kit. I replaced the ATI 16 with a Spal Extreme (output 3000 cfm) and a Spal 9 inch (750 cfm). I cut my own hole in the ATI shroud and mounted the 9 inch.
This is not a good pic, but the install looks like stock and not a hack job.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dlands...&.dnm=5bec.jpg
At the time no one was making a replacement dual fan kit for the ATI when I built my system, but SDCE makes a kit now.
http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...0fc6f70862b975
Make sure to ask what Spal 16 is supplied with their kit (the 16 Extreme (3000 cfm) or the (2200 cfm unit)? Their pricing suggests it's not the 16 inch Extreme based on the dollars I have in mine. Of course I had to pay retail. I'm in no way suggesting the SDCE makes or sells inferior products...just be clear as to which fan is in their kit.
My two fans pull 3750 cfm compared to the single ATI which is unknown and the stock dual 11's which I recall pull 2250 cfm.
But even considering all of the above, my car will still jump to 210 when idling parked on concrete with the AC on full blast in 100 degree temps (in Kansas).
Two other things elevate engine temps. Intake air temps and whether or not you have a M6 or an A4 transmission.
All things equal an A4 car will always run hotter than an M6 car. And a higher stall convertor will also elevate transmission oil temps and all of the transmission oil is routed through the radiator to cool and as it cools it raises the coolant in the radiator.
So you will need to install a transmission cooler preferably with its own fan and bypass the radiator completely.
ATI reroutes the intake charge back thru the charger, so when you are idling the temp gets higher and higher. Elevated intake air temps increase engine temps.
The fix is to exhaust excess air intake from the charge to atmosphere rather than rerouting back through the charger as ATI does. Simply install a K*N air filter and vent to atmosphere and block off the return hole in the charger.
Lastly, it's been proven without argument that a front mounted intercooler (FMIC) will also reduce intake air temps compared to the air to air intercoolers that ATI supplies with their kits (probably 50-60 degrees). IMO an FMIC ATI system will run much cooler than ATI's air to air intercoolers.
In summary, add an extra fan, a tranny cooler, vent to atmosphere, and if your budget allows add an FMIC and you won't have cooling issues with an ATI.
Many will post that they have never had overheating issues running the single ATI fan...but they never mention where they live, or the fact that they have pulled the AC, or whether they are running an M6 or an A4 with a high stall.
What I discovered is that it's the AC and when it's turned on that elevates the temps to over 210 and makes the coolant start to gurgle with steam pockets especially when idling or in stop and go traffic. When the AC is turned on all of the elevated air off of the AC radiator is drawn directly thru the radiator. It takes about 10 minutes with AC on to elevate temps from 185 up to 210.
To fix the problem, I installed an additional fan to replace the driver side 11 inch that ATI deletes with their kit. I replaced the ATI 16 with a Spal Extreme (output 3000 cfm) and a Spal 9 inch (750 cfm). I cut my own hole in the ATI shroud and mounted the 9 inch.
This is not a good pic, but the install looks like stock and not a hack job.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dlands...&.dnm=5bec.jpg
At the time no one was making a replacement dual fan kit for the ATI when I built my system, but SDCE makes a kit now.
http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...0fc6f70862b975
Make sure to ask what Spal 16 is supplied with their kit (the 16 Extreme (3000 cfm) or the (2200 cfm unit)? Their pricing suggests it's not the 16 inch Extreme based on the dollars I have in mine. Of course I had to pay retail. I'm in no way suggesting the SDCE makes or sells inferior products...just be clear as to which fan is in their kit.
My two fans pull 3750 cfm compared to the single ATI which is unknown and the stock dual 11's which I recall pull 2250 cfm.
But even considering all of the above, my car will still jump to 210 when idling parked on concrete with the AC on full blast in 100 degree temps (in Kansas).
Two other things elevate engine temps. Intake air temps and whether or not you have a M6 or an A4 transmission.
All things equal an A4 car will always run hotter than an M6 car. And a higher stall convertor will also elevate transmission oil temps and all of the transmission oil is routed through the radiator to cool and as it cools it raises the coolant in the radiator.
So you will need to install a transmission cooler preferably with its own fan and bypass the radiator completely.
ATI reroutes the intake charge back thru the charger, so when you are idling the temp gets higher and higher. Elevated intake air temps increase engine temps.
The fix is to exhaust excess air intake from the charge to atmosphere rather than rerouting back through the charger as ATI does. Simply install a K*N air filter and vent to atmosphere and block off the return hole in the charger.
Lastly, it's been proven without argument that a front mounted intercooler (FMIC) will also reduce intake air temps compared to the air to air intercoolers that ATI supplies with their kits (probably 50-60 degrees). IMO an FMIC ATI system will run much cooler than ATI's air to air intercoolers.
In summary, add an extra fan, a tranny cooler, vent to atmosphere, and if your budget allows add an FMIC and you won't have cooling issues with an ATI.
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